Confused about tub spout install

[kat-diy]

Hi all you helpful people! Got another question for you.

I went to Lowe's today to get a spout nipple only to find out that the special size I need can't be cut by them or other such stores. So I came here to read and discovered that what I was trying to do wasn't right anyway. (We were going to use galvanized pipe and from what I've read here, that's not right, correct?)

I've read that we can fabricate one but it sounds as though with our set up that copper would not be sturdy enough. We need a 6 5/8 inch pipe that is threaded on both ends, to screw into the wall and then the spout onto that. So, if we don't want galvanized and copper is too weak with such a set up, what do we do here? Thanks for any help!

 

[Jadnashua]

You'd probably want a brass one, but you'll not find one to those dimmensions. Your best bet is a piece of copper with threaded connectors on each end, or buy a different spout. Galvanized will eventually clog up with rust. Brass is much better.

 

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[kat-diy]

Hello Jim, thanks for the reply.

Would the copper be strong enough if it has two threaded fittings soldered onto each end? And I saw in another post where they suggested adding a coupling and doing two smaller pieces together, could that be done with brass?

 

[Jadnashua]

The spout shouldn't be used as a handle and is typically caulked to the wall. With that in mind, I think it would be okay. Many are installed using a compression fitting and slide right over a stub of copper.

How did you measure to determine it needed to be that exact length? Have you tried a 6" brass nipple? By putting a little more teflon tape on the threads, you can adjust, at least by a turn or so, how far it needs to be seated before it stops leaking. Does this spout have a divertor in it? If it doesn't, it doesn't have to be really tight since there is basically no pressure. If it has a divertor, it needs to be tight.

 

[kat-diy]

The spout thread doesn't even touch the 6 inch pipe, so I can't even start to screw it on. Its a Price Pfister and it says between 3 7/8" and 4 1/4 " from the finished wall and a 6 inch pipe is at 3 1/2 before being snugged into the wall. So, I came up with 6 5/8 which was also confirmed when I measured the excess with an 8 inch pipe in there.

I think we'll give the copper a try...... I had just read in an earlier post here that it may not be sturdy enough, especially if you had to remove the spout at some point.

Is the divertor the shower controller (off/on)? Is so, then yes, the divertor is in the spout.

 

[Bob NH]

I did one where I needed a special length and used a piece of L copper. It has a little more strength than the M. You can usually buy a 2 ft piece at HD, but even that is expensive these days.

The tin-antimony lead-free solders are stronger than the old 50-50 tin lead so the solder is not the critical part of the joint.

 

[Jadnashua]

The threaded adapters sold at the big-box stores, made in China, are often pretty raggedy. Last time I needed a few, I found a female piece, and tried all of them to determine if the threads didn't have any eccentricities and would at least thread in fairly easily until it got tight. Had to try maybe 4:1 to find some that were good. The point being, check them out first, or you may have trouble getting them started and a good seal.

 

[kat-diy]

Thank you Bob and Jim for the additional info, much appreciated! It will be a big help.

 

[Jimbo]

Most of the people in a HD store don't know about it, but every store has a nipple jig for their Rigid threader. In most stores, there will be NOT EVEN ONE person who knows how to use it, but if you find the right guy who is willing to open the box and read the instructions, they could do it. They probably do not have any brass longer than 6", so you would have to get a piece of 1/2" brass pipe from a plumbing store. Actually, some plumbing stores may also have a fabrication shop in the back and might do it for you.

 

[kat-diy]

Thank you. My husband was shocked to hear that HD couldn't do this, because he was sure he'd had it done there before. So this adds up to what he thought.

We're trying to avoid the plumbing supply places simply because they aren't open on Saturdays and it could be a month of Sundays before we have a week day we can get this done.... and I want to use my bath yesterday! So we are either going to go with the copper or the brass with a coupling. All of your helpful info has given us so much more to work with than we had yesterday, so thank you again. You guys are the best.

 

[kat-diy]

Just curious, do these things work?

Oops, just tried to link to an **** auction and see that I cant do that. Its item number 230009031804 on **** and I'd really love to know if these things work or other opinions about them.

LOL, I see the word is even censored. You know, that BIG auction site.

 

[Jadnashua]

That should work. The hardest part is holding the pipe without damaging it so it doesn't rotate while cutting the threads on it or damaging the threads on the other end if it is a short piece. A vise with a pipe holder helps.

 

[kat-diy]

Yes, makes sense to me! Thanks Jeff! I dont know if I'll get one for this project, but I think I may get one for my husband for his birthday. Seems we are always in need of a threaded pipe!