Condensate drain

[Addison]

Pardon my ignorance on this. It appears to me that the fitting in the blue that i circled is the condensate drain for the pan. Is there a reason as to why this fitting is metal? It looks rusted. Everything i have seen generally shows a drain fitting as PVC. I also noticed that the barbed fitting connects what seems to be a very small ID vinyl tube that just runs into my crawl space.

I never inspected to ensure that it was draining during operation. Should i replace the metal fitting and put in a bigger ID tube for better draining? My concern is that if that is the main drain, than it is located extremely close to the floor and dont thing i could properly route PVC to an appropriate drain such as a condensate pump given the height restrictions.

 

[Reach4]

It is hard to tell from the picture, but that fitting might be brass. A magnet will tell if it is steel.

I don't think that the barbed fitting material, the drain tube material, or the drain tube size would be the problem. If you have a problem, I would think it would be that you draining into the crawl space. The concern would be the humidity could work up into the living space in summer. Also, where does the T+P valve on the water heater drain to?

How about putting in a floor drain for the WH and air conditioner condensation?

You may be able to use a low profile condensate pump. http://littlegiant.com/media/130243/995123__VCC-20.pdf

 

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[Addison]

Ahh magnet test is a great idea! I never thought of that! I have never noticed any pooling or leaking from the condensate drain, nor never noticed any draining though the vinyl; than again never looked (first time home owner). I did notice that the vinyl just ends in the crawl space... of course of top of a supply duct. I believe it is draining and that is also the reason for some rust on that supply duct. I will verify that this weekend when i fire up the AC for the first time this year.

The T+P valve on the water heater also terminates in the crawl space.

I know the terminating in the crawl space for the condensate and T+P valve is moreso the issue; dont knock me, this is how the foreclosure (and DIY job by previous owner) was built before i bought it... Im fixing it properly.

I would not be against a floor drain at all, but have never installed a PVC on... and do not know how/where to tie the plumbing into. There is a laundry tub in the same room, as well as a washer and dryer.

 

[Reach4]

I did notice that the vinyl just ends in the crawl space... of course of top of a supply duct.

That part should be easily changed by a longer piece of tubing. That would make things a bit better than it is currently.

I am not a plumber. If you post a picture of the plumbing in the crawl space, a plumber may have a good suggestion. Also think about whether you could tie in a vent line in the wall for a potential new floor drain.

 

[Addison]

Low profile condensate pump is a great idea! Among all my searches never stumbled across one. Would it be an issue to redirect the vinyl tube into the inlet opening of the condensate pump or does it have to be pvc tubing off of the drain pan?

Is there ever a scenerio where the AC coils do not create much condensation and thus doesnt drain much water? Such as with a certain type of furnace? Only asking as previously stated i never noticed water flowing through; the vinyl tube is also not clogged.

 

[Addison]

Ill replace the vinyl tube; no issue at all. Would it be best to do a low profile pump, install a new floor drain, or what would you suggest?

Am i correct that that part is the condensate drain in deed?

 

[Reach4]

I don't think there is a problem with polyethylene tube vs PVC. I presume that is the AC condensate drain.

Is there ever a scenerio where the AC coils do not create much condensation and thus doesnt drain much water?

During August in Michigan? It depends on how you define "much". A big part of the AC's job is to remove water from the air. Are you asking if such a low profile condensate pump could keep up with the AC? I would certainly think yes.

Would it be best to do a low profile pump, install a new floor drain, or what would you suggest?

The condensate drain is cheaper and faster. A floor drain is better and more expensive. Having the T+P valve pipe open 6 inches above the floor with no meets code. Having it drain into the crawl space does not. I would probably not follow the code in that case, but a floor drain meets both code and function.

 

[Addison]

This image might be better. The 2 circled areas are what i believe to be the main/secondary drains for the condensate pan; both of those tubes just terminate in the crawl space.

I think my best/most proper option would be to replace the vinyl tube and purchase a low profile condensate pump and run the discharge over to the laundry tub.

I think leaving the T+P valve terminate into the crawl should be fine... i understand its not code compliant, but it should be OK correct?

 

[Addison]

I just double check when I got home. Those fitting out of the pan are plastic. Than there is a metal fitting threaded into it which has that nipple that the vinyl tube is hooked up to.

I was able to magnet test that fitting and the magnet attracted to it. So does that mean the fitting is steel? Which is bad because it rusts?

I also removed that tubing as was easily able to blow in and out to ensure the pan wasn't clogged.

 

[Reach4]

was able to magnet test that fitting and the magnet attracted to it. So does that mean the fitting is steel? Which is bad because it rusts?

It means steel. Its not like that is your drinking water, but it is not as good as brass or plastic for this.

 

[Addison]

Think I should attemp to replace it? Or just leave it?

 

[WorthFlorida]

I would at least blow air through these two drains and if clear, don't fix what is not broken. My real concern is the condition of the coil inside this box? It doesn't look that you can open this coil box to check it out. If you are concerned about the fittings it'd be more likely be degrading from the inside where there is obviously more moisture and it'd be the galvanized metal around the fitting that would be the problem area. Since your in MI and the AC doesn't run that much as compared to almost every day in Florida, you may not have any mold build up but if each year a little mold grows then it drys out and dies when the heating season starts but after a lot of years the coils can be a real mess with build up and this can clog up the drains from the inside.

 

[Addison]

I was able to take a peak at the coil in the box. I was able to remove the screws holding the panel on where the condensate drains were located. I ran the AC and could see the condensation that is forming on the coils. The coils seemed to be a bit dirty; i could notice some mold on them. With evap coil access being so close to the water heater, its extremely difficult to to get in at a good angle to clean the coils.

I looked below the coil, my main concern is the pan; its looks very rusty. I cannot tell if the pan has rusted out; if so, is it possible to change just the pan?

Would spraying or using an evap cleaner help kill of the mold? Cannt hurt right? Is there a specific cleaner that is better than others.

I could see the condensation forming on the coil, but neither drain line had any water flow through. Is that because:
1) Not enough condensation has formed/dripped yet
2) The pan is so rusty that water is just running through the rusted condensate pan.

 

[WorthFlorida]

I've never have seen this type of setup before but it may have been the norm back in the day but the box does look like galvanized steel and they do eventually break down. This time of the year you may not get very much humidity to see a lot of condensate and it may take an hour or so to get a fair amount. I guess you need to get in the crawl space and inspect the condition under it to see if there is or was any sign of leaks. If there is leak and when the air handler is blowing air, you are sucking air from the crawl space.

But where does the return air come from, the crawl space or behind this box from the wall? Home Depot and Lowes, at least in Florida sell coil cleaner. An aerosol foam you spray on the coils and let it sit for ten minutes or more. Then rinse it down with water from a hand pump sprayer. A hose, if not careful, can damage the coils by breaking off corroded pieces of the fins, bending them and any breaking off steel bracing that might have rusted away. Some coil cleaner require no rinsing and you let the condensate do the rinsing. Spraying water will also test out the drain lines.

Here again if the A/C is working and the drain lines are draining, leave it alone. However, if there is someone in the house whole that has respiratory problems or allergies to airborne mold, it'd be time to upgrade. All new AC units are now very efficient. Two years ago I had to replace mine with a15 plus SEER rating and the air quality is far improved. A few months ago my son replaced his 25 year old unit with new one close to SEER 15.9 and his drain lines were replaced. He can't believe how much better the air is and his electric bill went way down .

 

[Addison]

So I came home today after work and the wife ran the AC for the day. I check the milky poly tube, didn't see water coming out. Checked the other end of that black tube which ends in the crawl space (the tube I thought is the primary drain because it's lower than the other) and no signs of water coming out.

Took the poly tube off as it was barely held on (the end connected to the drain had a splice in it), and water flowed! Sat there there for a bit draining into a plastic tuberware I had it while it drained. I assume that condensation built up so high it filled the secondary pan?

Is the poly tube drain even the secondary drain pain or could that be the primary and water never got high enough to flow out of the black tube in back drain?

So after it all drained, i went to lowes late last night. Purchased 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing. Put that on the drain in place of the milky poly tube (i wanted clear so i could see if it was flowing water).

Once i attached it; i ran the other end of the clear vinyl tube in the crawl space to a spot where it was slightly dug down (i know... shouldnt run it in the crawl but i figured this will work for a few days until i can correctly fix it).

I turned the AC on and could notice water dripping/flowing out of the drain through the tubing. The dripping through was almost instant. Still no signs of water through the other black tube.