Complete Toto Aquia installation instructions written by Jamie Love

[Lawless]

I'm about to install a Toto Aquia. I got a 'jumbo' wax ring at Lowes thinking it must be better if it's bigger. Once I saw how this toilet goes together I'm wondering if this huge wax ring is ever going to 'squish' (is that the technical term?) enough for the grey flange to actually sit flush with the floor.

I've never done toilet demo or installation before, so this wax ring is really going to work - or is there a better choice for this particular toilet, i.e., smaller wax ring?

Thanks,
Angie

Installation instructions for Aquia

$100 rebate on WaterSense Toilets

CST414M
CST416M
CST464MF
CST412MF
CST412.10MF

 

[Jamie]

Aquia 1 Instructions

Aquia 1 instructions:
center the provided template over the flange and mark corresponding holes with a pen. There will be 2 towards the back to hold the uni-fit adapter to the floor as well as 2 to each side for the white plastic mounting blocks.
The CT414 bowl uses the TSU04.12 adapter

Tile: 2 green anchors are provided for the rear holes and 4 white anchors are provided for the side mounting blocks, 2 for each side and block.

*If installing on a wood sub-floor both the white and green anchors are not needed though i recommend pre-drilling the side holes with a 3/16 bit. Pre-drilling is not necessary for the rear 2 holes.

If installing the toilet on a tile floor i like to use a 1/4" masonry/tile bit for the 2 rear holes and a 5/16 bit for the side mounting blocks. I then tap in both the green anchors for the rear holes and the white anchors for the side holes until the anchors are flush with the floor surface. Once the anchors are tapped in i will then pre drill the side white anchors with a 3/16 drill bit.

Flange: Secure closet bolts to the flange. If the flange is higher than or flush with the floor surface i use a single wax ring NO horn. If it is below the floor surface i put a regular wax ring down 1st then a 2nd wax ring with a horn on top with the horn facing down. *wax rings, water supply line and closet bolts are not included and must be purchased separately.

Now its time to "push" the adapter onto the wax. Squish The adapter down and secure the adapter by using the remaining washers and nuts from the closet bolt set, then use the two small screws to secure the back of the adapter down. Then Secure the mounting blocks by threading in the larger screws through the blocks into the floor.

Now that the adapter and mounting blocks are secure, secure the tank mounting hardware onto the bowl. Its now time to insert the bowl into the adapter. I like to use some liquid soap on the rubber to help the bowl "slide" in. Once the bowl bottoms out on the hub its time to insert the finishing screws on either side of the bowl through the porcelain and into the mounting blocks.

I rotate the flush valve out before installing the tank. Unclip the fill tube, and rotate out counter clockwise. After screwing in the tank, the flush valve rotates back in clockwise, and push the fill tube attachment back on.

Now that the bowl is set its time to attach the tank. dis-connect the refill tube from the fill valve and remove the flush tower by turning it counter clock wise. Attach a 16' flexible water supply tube to the toilet tank and put on the large rubber gasket over the flush valve nut. You secure the tank to the bowl from above, inside the tank. Slide the metal washer onto the brass bolt followed by the rubber washer. Now hand tighten each bolt to the mounting hardware with the rubber washer down. *You must SLOW down and alternate tightening both sides often to in sure the rubber gasket seats properly. After the tank is hand tight, finish tightening with a flat blade screw driver until the tank is snug. Re-install the flush tower and re-connect the fill tube.

Tighten the water supply to the shut off valve and turn on water. * YOU MUST RE-INSTALL THE FLUSH TOWER before turning on water.

Next the seat is mounted by dropping a rubber bushing-nut into each seat hole. Remove the screw and washer. Set the seat over the hole and re-insert the washer and screw and tighten with a screw driver. * it can take ALOT of turns with a screw driver by hand, i use a drill to help speed things up!

Place the lid on top of the tank and give it a few test flushes, and you're done!

CST414M Fill valve

Installation instructions for Aquia

To buy Aquia toilets in the Seattle area

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jamie]

Aquia 2 & 3 installation instructions

Aquia 2 & 3 installation instructions:

center the provided template over the flange and mark corresponding holes with a pen. There will be 4 total, 2 to each side of the flange for the white plastic mounting blocks.

TILE: 4 white anchors are provided for the side mounting blocks, 2 for each mounting block on each side.

*If installing on a wood sub-floor the white anchors are NOT needed, but I do strongly recommend pre-drilling the side holes with a 3/16 bit.

If installing the toilet on a tile floor I like to use a 5/16'' masonry/tile bit for drilling the holes for the side mounting blocks. I then tap in the white anchors for the side holes until the anchors are flush with the floor surface. Once the anchors are tapped in, i will then pre-drill the white anchors with a 3/16 drill bit.

Flange: Secure closet bolts to the flange. If the flange is higher than or flush with the floor surface i use a single wax ring NO horn. If it is below the floor surface i put a regular wax ring down 1ST then a 2nd wax ring with a horn on top with the horn facing down. *wax rings, water supply line and closet bolts are not included and must be purchased separately.


Now its time to "push" the adapter onto the wax. Squish The adapter down and secure the adapter by using the remaining washers and nuts from the closet bolt set. Then Secure the mounting blocks by threading in the larger screws through the blocks into the floor.

Now that the adapter and mounting blocks are secure, secure the tank mounting hardware onto the bowl. Its now time to insert the bowl into the adapter. I like to use some liquid soap on the rubber to help the bowl "slide" in. Once the bowl bottoms out on the hub its time to insert the finishing screws on either side of the bowl through the porcelain and into the mounting blocks. Then thread on the decorative finish caps.

Tank to bowl washer.

Now that the bowl is set, its time to attach the tank. dis-connect the refill tube from the fill valve and remove the flush tower by turning it counter clock wise. Attach a 16'' flexible water supply tube to the toilet tank and put on the large rubber gasket over the flush valve nut. You secure the tank to the bowl from above, inside the tank. Slide the metal washer onto the brass bolt followed by the rubber washer. Now hand tighten each bolt to the mounting hardware with the rubber washer down. *You must SLOW down and alternate tightening both sides often to in sure the rubber gasket seats properly. After the tank is hand tight, finish tightening with a flat blade screw driver until the tank is snug. Re-install the flush tower and re-connect the fill tube.

Tighten the water supply to the shut off valve and turn on water. * YOU MUST RE-INSTALL THE FLUSH TOWER before turning on water.

Next the seat is mounted by dropping a rubber bushing-nut into each seat hole. Remove the screw and washer. Set the seat over the hole and re-insert the washer and screw and tighten with a screw driver. * it can take ALOT of turns with a screw driver by hand, i use a drill to help speed things up!

Place the lid on top of the tank and give it a few test flushes, and you're done!

Installation instructions for Aquia

To buy Aquia toilets in the Seattle area

 

[Terry]

TOTO included parts

Template

Installing the adapter and the blocks.

Setting the bowl down.

Installing the tank

Adjusting the push rods.

 

[Terry]

Any shimming is done at the back of the bowl, pinning the front of the bowl to the floor. These are rubber shims, that can easily be trimmed with a knife.

A flexible supply line, as the supply has to be installed to the tank before the tank is installed to the bowl.

The new blocks are stiffer than they used to be. It's nice if you have a short drill motor to pre drill a hole. On this one I took a 8x3" screw to the left side to start a hole. Even that was tough. Who decided on such tough plastic for these?

 

[Terry]

This is the second one for this customer. The one was installed on tile. They love the one upstairs that we installed back in 2008.

 

[Steveo1966]

Aquia 1 Instructions

Aquia 1 instructions:
center the provided template over the flange and mark corresponding holes with a pen. There will be 2 towards the back to hold the uni-fit adapter to the floor as well as 2 to each side for the white plastic mounting blocks.
The CT414 bowl uses the TSU04.12 adapter

Tile: 2 green anchors are provided for the rear holes and 4 white anchors are provided for the side mounting blocks, 2 for each side and block.

*If installing on a wood sub-floor both the white and green anchors are not needed though i recommend pre-drilling the side holes with a 3/16 bit. Pre-drilling is not necessary for the rear 2 holes.

If installing the toilet on a tile floor i like to use a 1/4" masonry/tile bit for the 2 rear holes and a 5/16 bit for the side mounting blocks. I then tap in both the green anchors for the rear holes and the white anchors for the side holes until the anchors are flush with the floor surface. Once the anchors are tapped in i will then pre drill the side white anchors with a 3/16 drill bit.

Flange: Secure closet bolts to the flange. If the flange is higher than or flush with the floor surface i use a single wax ring NO horn. If it is below the floor surface i put a regular wax ring down 1st then a 2nd wax ring with a horn on top with the horn facing down. *wax rings, water supply line and closet bolts are not included and must be purchased separately.

Now its time to "push" the adapter onto the wax. Squish The adapter down and secure the adapter by using the remaining washers and nuts from the closet bolt set, then use the two small screws to secure the back of the adapter down. Then Secure the mounting blocks by threading in the larger screws through the blocks into the floor.

Now that the adapter and mounting blocks are secure, secure the tank mounting hardware onto the bowl. Its now time to insert the bowl into the adapter. I like to use some liquid soap on the rubber to help the bowl "slide" in. Once the bowl bottoms out on the hub its time to insert the finishing screws on either side of the bowl through the porcelain and into the mounting blocks.

I rotate the flush valve out before installing the tank. Unclip the fill tube, and rotate out counter clockwise. After screwing in the tank, the flush valve rotates back in clockwise, and push the fill tube attachment back on.

Now that the bowl is set its time to attach the tank. dis-connect the refill tube from the fill valve and remove the flush tower by turning it counter clock wise. Attach a 16' flexible water supply tube to the toilet tank and put on the large rubber gasket over the flush valve nut. You secure the tank to the bowl from above, inside the tank. Slide the metal washer onto the brass bolt followed by the rubber washer. Now hand tighten each bolt to the mounting hardware with the rubber washer down. *You must SLOW down and alternate tightening both sides often to in sure the rubber gasket seats properly. After the tank is hand tight, finish tightening with a flat blade screw driver until the tank is snug. Re-install the flush tower and re-connect the fill tube.

Tighten the water supply to the shut off valve and turn on water. * YOU MUST RE-INSTALL THE FLUSH TOWER before turning on water.

Next the seat is mounted by dropping a rubber bushing-nut into each seat hole. Remove the screw and washer. Set the seat over the hole and re-insert the washer and screw and tighten with a screw driver. * it can take ALOT of turns with a screw driver by hand, i use a drill to help speed things up!

Place the lid on top of the tank and give it a few test flushes, and you're done!

CST414M Fill valve

Installation instructions for Aquia

To buy Aquia toilets in the Seattle area

This is fantastic info. I pulled my Aquia I the other day for a bathroom re-paint and also to confirm a leak that I have suspected, as there was a little bit of seepage over time (no noticeable liquid) around the base of the front of the toilet. And yes, with the toilet removed, I can confirm that the subfloor is wet and there was a slow or periodic leak.

In my installation done in around 2007 by a rennovator, the flange is at the level of the subfloor, not at the surface level of the tile. On top of the flange was a thin rubber gasket/ring, followed by a flange spacer about 3/8 thick, followed by a thick foam rubber gasket as you can see on the right in the pic below - the beveled part is facing down. I also observed that the foam rubber ring had signs of wear.. probably becasue the toilet would rock (move) just a little if one sat down on it quickly. Below is a pic, and you can see the wear/damage on the foam rubber gasket on the right at the bottom-insight part of the gasket

Here also is a better pic showing the level of the flange relative to the tile surface

This below is what I had picked up a ways back as a replacement for the wax ring / seal...a "Danco Perfect Seal Wax Ring". Because my flange is below the level of the tile, the instructions call for the use of the blue extender as shown below. What i am failing to understand is how there is enough downward pressure with the PVC / rough in piece to truly compress the wax ring?

I had picked this up before I saw Jamie's suggestion (where flange is below tile) to "put a regular wax ring down 1st then a 2nd wax ring with a horn on top with the horn facing down"

Anyone have any experience with this "Perfect Seal" option? I am leaning towards heading out to the h/w store and going with what Jamie suggests.

This also leads me to a question on whether I should apply a bead of clear silicone after the toilet is installed, along the edge where the base sits on the floor. This makes for a clean looking solution and also can prevent the toilet from moving slightly, but on the flipside, I may not have noticed this leak/seepage if this was done. If I do so, I would leave the back open still.