Complete bathroom remodel

Discussion in 'Remodel Forum & Blog' started by lordoftheflies, May 9, 2017.

  1. gking707

    gking707 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2017
    Location:
    Solano County
    Looks awesome, after scrolling through the picture's my first thought was 'this guy definately needs to remodel his bath'

    I hope you end up with a killer bathroom!
     
  2. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Thanks gking!

    Here's a few pics of the floor. Got the subfloor finished today. Before doing that I had to bring the 1" pex lines upstairs....and also hook up my Fleck 5800 Coconut shell carbon filter for chlorine removal........and had to remove the existing 3/4" pex lines.........

    So now I'm ready to finish framing my false wall for the vanity........and then I can finish bringing the water lines .....and can frame out the bathtub.

    Of course I had to deal with this damn crazy freezing temps we just had here in NY but thankfully that's over.........


    2018-01-08 16.23.41.jpg 2018-01-08 16.23.44.jpg 2018-01-08 16.23.52.jpg 2018-01-09 15.01.30.jpg 2018-01-09 15.01.34.jpg 2018-01-09 15.01.37.jpg
     
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  3. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Framed the false wall. I need to add some blocking for the drop ears for the toilet and the vanity water lines.

    2018-01-13 16.14.07.jpg
     
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  4. suceress

    suceress Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2008
    Location:
    LA
    It's looking good! I hope everything is going smoothly still on the reno.
     
  5. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Getting there. Went to install the bathtub and found out the exterior wall is 2" off plumb at the top. So I ended up sistering the entire wall with 2x3.

    I also picked up a kit (was delivered) from tubmount.com. I was finding it literally impossible to install the tub on the ledger because the tub must be warped. The ledger is level on (2) of the 2x4 (one long side, one short side) but I couldn't get the tub to sit on the ledger level. Perhaps the tub is a little warped.

    Ended up putting in some Roxul comfort 2x4 batting and still need to finish framing for the tub. I also have to figure out if I am going to move the door. The old frame left a few inches with a 30" tub but now with the 32" there might not be enough room for symmetrical casing around the door. And if I move the door, I'm going to have to move the toilet flange. Argh!

    2018-02-23 21.35.18.jpg 2018-03-11 15.52.49.jpg 2018-03-11 15.52.53.jpg
     
  6. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    It's been a while since I posted but here's an update or two.

    Today I ran the 1" pex up to the shower valve. I haven't framed the shower valve yet but basically the valve has 3/4" outlets...I'm using 1" PTC (push to connect) x 3/4" MPT to connect to the valves and then a 1" elbow. I went with 1" because I want to maximize my flow and minimize my friction when filling this large (66" x 32" x 22") 70 gallon tub. I have a 3/4" copper main that transitions to 1" pex post sediment filtration. I also need to upgrade my water meter from 5/8" => 3/4" which will give me about 1.4x the volume.

    All the electrical is pretty much done. I have a whip set up for the flush mount electric 1000W wall heater. I do still need to pick out a vanity. Got my head around how I'm going to install the trap for the Ikea 4-drawer vanity.

    Once I connect the shower controls I can then set the tub.

    Here's the Legend 1" ptc shut off valves the local plumbing supply had.

    2019-05-09 15.26.08.jpg


    2019-05-09 15.26.10.jpg

    Elbows. 1" pex is super hard to bend and I didn't feel like I had enough room for the hot side.

    2019-05-09 15.26.14.jpg

    Tee for the hot side.

    2019-05-09 15.26.21.jpg

    Tee for the cold side

    2019-05-09 15.26.31.jpg
     
  7. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Here you can see both tees.

    2019-05-09 15.26.31.jpg

    Up to the vanity area in 3/4" pex.

    2019-05-09 15.26.35.jpg

    2019-05-09 15.27.27.jpg

    I will use a 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/2" tee for the cold side and a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer for the hot side.

    2019-05-09 15.27.37.jpg
     
  8. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Thanks for everyone's input of course. This forum is such a great resource.
     
  9. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Finished bracing the mixing valve, diverter, tub spout, and shower head today. Used sharkbite fittings, teflon, and megaloc on the threads. Deburred and sanded the copper piping. I had a 5' piece of "M" 1/2" copper so that's what I ended up using. Had to get another piece as well. Was debating whether or not to use "L" but since I had a piece already I decided to use what I had.

    I had to nail in the diverter - screws were too big to get into the tiny holes. That seems to hold it really well though and with the copper piping everything is pretty solid.

    I bought some 1.25" emt straps to hold the mixing valve in but they ended up being too short so I'll have to swap those out for 1.5". Nothing moves unless you put a crazy amount of force so the straps will be there to just prevent any accidental movement. '

    Pretty happy with the bracing - used 2x4 with a spare piece of 3/4 finish wood. There is a tiny split on the copper strap but that strap isn't actually doing too much - I used it to prevent the valves from falling but turns out I didn't need it.

    4" brass lead free nipples. I hope it's alright to turn the drop ear sideways - can't really imagine a reason why that wouldn't work.

    Nail plates are in throughout the bathroom for both plumbing and electrical. Tomorrow I will connect the water lines and maybe the tub spout and shower head just to make sure everything works properly.

    2019-05-11 13.39.18.jpg 2019-05-11 13.39.31.jpg 2019-05-11 13.39.34.jpg 2019-05-11 13.39.37.jpg 2019-05-11 16.34.33.jpg 2019-05-11 16.34.40.jpg
     
  10. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    The 2x4 bracing sits behind the studs....the 3/4" piece is inside to get the depth correct. I figured about 1.25" comprising of 5/8" kerdi board, thinset, and 1/4" subway tile.
     
  11. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Hooked up the 1" pex water lines today to the shower mixing valve. I temporarily installed the shower arm and the tub spout and tested the functionality of the mixing valve and diverter......and happy to report all is working exactly as expected. I'm getting super nice flow out of the tub spout. I can tell I get plenty of flow at the shower head.

    I also hooked up the water lines for the vanity as well as the toilet.

    Used 1/2" sharkbite drop ears for tub spout, shower head, toilet, and vanity connections. I like being able to rotate these fittings to reduce the stress on the pex tubing.

    2019-05-12 17.07.46.jpg

    Used a strap to keep the lines coming out of the floor from actually resting on the 1900 box for the toilet bidet.

    2019-05-12 17.09.57.jpg 2019-05-12 17.10.02.jpg 2019-05-12 17.28.44.jpg



    2019-05-12 17.28.48.jpg

    The short hot water pipe was a little bent - that's not from anything pulling down.

    2019-05-12 17.29.03.jpg
     
  12. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Ended up putting the shower way up there about 85". I'm 6' tall but the wife is a midget. This may end up being a problem for her.....but too bad, too sad. :D

    2019-05-12 17.29.07.jpg
     
  13. DIYorBust

    DIYorBust Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2019
    Location:
    Long Island, New York
    This is awesome, I can't wait to see the finished product.
     
  14. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Thanks a lot. I appreciate that.

    Today I picked up some (of the ugliest) chrome plated brass nipples at the orange box store. Hooked up my dahl 1/4 ball valve shut offs for the vanity and the toilet and temporarily connected my Ikea faucet to test it out. Removed the 1.2gpm restrictor because it was taking too long to get hot water (and plus I always remove my restrictors!)

    2019-05-13 14.45.05.jpg

    2019-05-13 14.46.48.jpg

    Here's a pic of the back of the shower showing the braces. Those suckers are solid.

    2019-05-12 22.42.35.jpg

    Going to pick up some kerdi board and some modified and unmodified thinset. Will set the tub and then lay my second layer of plywood on the floor. Then I can install the ditra although I still need to figure out exactly what I'm doing with the vanity. Was looking at this Kohler Verdera 40" x 30" 3-panel vanity but it's kind of expensive though I do like the ample storage. Of course being a man who shaves his head, all I need is a handful of things in the bathroom - bar of soap, shampoo, shaver, shaving cream, head shaving clippers, toothbrush, and toothpaste. My wife on the other hand.........

    kohler k-99011-na vanity.jpg
     
  15. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    I've ordered the following. Got a Lowe's credit card and got $100 off of $600 or more. Woot.

    I haven't picked out the tile yet...but I'm leaning towards just using a glossy white 3" x 6" subway tile for the walls of the bathroom probably 5' up from the floor - American Olean al cheapo from Lowes that I used for my kitchen. For the walls of the tub I'll use a larger square glossy white tile maybe 4" x 4". I'm not too keen on the look of LFT and I don't need any fancy mosaic highlights or whatever.

    I'm keeping it simple stupid. Probably go with a large square white tile for the floor as well.

    I was going to go with the Schluter All-set modified thinset for the plywood-Ditra space.........and then Schluter's set unmodified for the kerdi band, and in between the Kerdi board and the tub tile as well as for the floor tile.

    It's kind of expensive though. Best price I found was on ecomfort.com:

    Unmodified Set White $33
    Modified All-set White $46

    I don't have very much square footage. Just about 60 sq ft for the floor, and about the same for the tub (32" x 66"). I figured 2 bags of modified for the subfloor-to-ditra, 4 bags for the floor and tub tile, plus maybe 3 or 4 bags of modified for the rest of the bathroom walls.

    I've never tiled with thinset before. All I've done is some minor work using subway tile and mastic to finish the last row of tile in the kitchen when the tile guy just bailed.

    Should be fun. I will probably experimentate a bit.

    So should I go with the Schluter stuff? Laticrete? Kerabond? CBP Versabond? The versabond is readily available at the orange big box store at like $13 a bag for the modified. Is the Schluter really 3x *better*? Is versabond a "premium" unmodified thinset?

    Local place has the schluter stuff for a bit cheaper actually. $37 and $26. Still more expensive than Mapei Ultraflex II modified $26 and Kerabond unmodified $22.

    Anyone want to chime in on what kind of sheetrock I should use for the rest of the bathroom outside of the tub/shower alcove? I'm thinking the purple stuff from Lowe's......

    I'll be tiling the shower area all the way to the ceiling with the 1/2" Kerdi board so I guess 1/2" for the ceilings and the rest of the bathroom.

    I emailed the Schluter rep and asked him if the warranty will be void if I use Mapei thinset.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2019 at 1:29 PM
  16. DIYorBust

    DIYorBust Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2019
    Location:
    Long Island, New York
    I continue to be impressed by this thrifty and practical bathroom remodel. My one recommendation: thinset is cheap and you won't be buying that much. I think a premium Thinset will make your life easier. I found prolite from HD was much more forgiving on vertical surfaces, and could be built up a bit where conditions weren't perfect. Other brands have similar products, sometimes sold as LFT mortars. An experienced tiler doing dozens of projects might find this a waste of money, but I thought it was worth the ten bucks a bag or so. You have a limited working time once thinset is mixed so it's nice to have a little margin of error when learning. But since all your surfaces look plumb and level, a cheap mortar should work okay too. Just something to consider.
     
  17. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Thanks DIYorBust. I think Mapei is considered a premium brand and based on me research Ultraflex II seems to be pretty popular. I got a reply from my rep regarding the warranty. If you use Schluter's thinset, it gets upgraded to a lifetime warranty. If not, Mapei is approved. Here's the conversation. I thought people were joking when they said that Schluter wants the address of the framer.

    Me: I wanted to ask you if it is ok to use non-schluter thinset for my ditra (floor) and the shower/tub (kerdi). I was planning on following the proper procedure and using modified thinset between the plywood subfloor and the ditra…and the using unmodified between the ditra and the floor tile. I will use unmodified for all kerdi band locations and also use unmodified in the shower on top of the Kerdi Board.

    Local place has Mapei Ultraflex II Modified thinset as well as Mapei Kerabond unmodified. Will my warranty be void if I use these thinsets instead of the schluter all set and set?

    Schluter: You are good with a 10 year warranty with the Mapei products you listed in the way you proposed. Great products i had many years of great success with them. If you use our thinset we bump it up to lifetime !! Good luck !!!

    Me: What are the requirements for the warranty? Someone said you had to provide the address of the framer. I am the framer. :D

    Schluter:
    Go to our website, click on warranty registration, it will want location. Proof of purchase products used not much more. Lifetime will be different from basic. So just look at the website and you will see it all.

    On a related note going to pick up some Sakrete Sand Mix (Topping and Bedding) from HD to set the tub. Wish me luck! Going to follow jadnashua's post from another thread HERE

     
  18. lordoftheflies

    lordoftheflies Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Schluter has a workshop part 1 for ditra and kerdi June 5th and 6th near me. I think I might just attend since I'm in no *serious* rush and am still waiting for the parts to arrive. Also that will give me an opportunity to test out the Schluter's thinset and see how easy (or not) it is to work with.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2019 at 9:46 PM
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