Complete bathroom remodel

Users who are viewing this thread

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Hello,

Wifey said she smelled nastiness in the upstairs bathroom and I also noticed a foul smell yesterday.

Well lo and behold there was no wax ring! WTF!

Bought the house 11 years ago so it's at least that old. I have a Toto washlet on the toilet at the moment so I am going to stick with a round toilet I think.

However! I was wondering what you guys thought if I were to rotate the install and have the toilet facing the vanity.......I have plenty of space to install an elongated, it would give me a reason to install a proper vanity instead of the piece of crap that is there now, and the only issue would be that I'd have to buy an elongated Washlet.........So that's a bit of a bummer.

The center of the flange would be 15" from the finished wall in this alternate layout. The supply would be on the left/side of the toilet but I can shorten the brass nipple no problem.

In the current config the supply is only 4.5" from center but as I saw in Jamie's post the Drake can be installed with as little as 3" from center. Also the center of the flange is 12.5" away from the finished wall.

Or I could combine both ideas and just rotate and install a round toilet, save money by not having to buy another washlet (and I don't have another round toilet to use this washlet on), and get a proper vanity too.

The flange is above the floor.......

What do you guys think is the best route? Stick with rounded in current configuration? Go with rounded and rotate? Go with elongated and rotate?

Oh and I want to get a new toilet anyways since this eljer one clogs up a lot and is very hard to flush. I already installed a Vespin II elongated downstairs and it has been working out great.

Supply height

2017-05-09 17.06.22.jpg


Supply distance from the side wall. If I go with my updated config, that would become the back wall.

2017-05-09 17.06.08.jpg

Flang distance from the current side of the toilet. If I go with my updated config, that would become the back wall.

2017-05-09 17.05.12.jpg


Distance of the flange from the current back wall.

2017-05-09 17.05.00.jpg


View from the doorway at the vanity. If I go with my updated config, this would basically be the view when sitting on the toilet. I would rip that piece of crap out and install a proper vanity though.


2017-05-09 17.04.39.jpg
 
Last edited:

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Also another idea I had was to knock down the side wall because currently it has a walk in closet that is kind of useless and just stores junk we don't need in the first place. However that might be a project for a later time.

Here's the pic showing the distance to the doorway. In the current configuration if I have to walk into the bathroom and the wifey is on the throne, knees get scraped and yelling ensues.

2017-05-09 17.56.43.jpg
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I can't figure out your layout.
This I do know, normally you would have 15" from side to center, making at least 30" overall. That's for your arms.
From the back wall, it would be 12" to center of drain. From the end of bowl, you should have at least 21" of space in front. With an elongated bowl, that would be 50" that is needed.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,602
Reaction score
1,038
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
An 'elongated bowl" will do absolutely NOTHING to make the back of the tank closer to the wall considering where the drain is located, and your "shoulder room" will be severely limited also. there is NOT enough room next to the vanity to do what you want to, unless you want to "climb over" the toilet every time you use it. You may have 34" between the wall and vanity, but only about 17" from the drain to the vanity and THAT is what determines how much space you have.
 
Last edited:

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
hj I could get a Toto Vespin II with the 14" roughin adapter - that would fill in some space.....

And yes it would appear the left side of the toilet would be a bit short of the 15".......
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
This is the round toilet I have in mind. I think that is the cheaper solution so I don't have to go out and buy another washlet.

Definitely wanted another Toto toilet. Since the Vespin only comes in elongated I went with the Drake II with the tornado/dual cyclone flush, the CeFiONtect glaze, and an ADA height. This doesn't seem to be a very popular choice though - not many people have it in stock.........

http://www.totousa.com/drake-ii-two-piece-toilet-round-bowl-128-gpf

Now the question is whether or I should turn it 90 degrees or not........
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
Now the question is whether or I should turn it 90 degrees or not........
I suggest you set the bowl in the two positions before deciding. If you are sure you are going to keep it, put the tank on and try again.

When you become sure you are going to keep the toilet, then put the tank on, and try again.

If you opt for the rotated choice, and the gap bothers you at some point, consider a "space saver" over the toilet.

While you are at it, you may want to replace the stop valve with a quarter turn valve, and put on a new escutcheon.
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Spec sheet says the toilet is 17.25" wide from the edge of the tank to the edge of the flush actuator. Since I have 28" to the edge of the door I could definitely install a space saver and rotate the toilet 90.

You mean something like this?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Ch...t-Fit-Offset-Closet-Flange-889-GPOM/204982645

8665020c-3cdd-40ca-8c29-7f217cd3da4f_1000.jpg


Offers a 1.5" offset in any direction. If rotated 90 degrees that would get me to about 14" off the side wall.......

However, if I install this over the existing flange will the new flange be too high off the floor?
 
Last edited:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
You mean something like this?
I meant something like this... they come in lots of varieties, most of which are inexpensive.
I was not thinking of a solution that would call for tearing into the floor.

toilet-shelves.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Oh. I have that already. Upon further inspection there is a tiled in toilet paper holder on the back wall should I decide to rotate. Will need to make sure that clears the space saver.

However, the vanity is literally a POS so that has to go regardless. And the sink is terrible as well.

I will seat the new toilet both ways and see how it goes.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
You might have enough side-t0-side distance (code requires 30" minimum, 15" either side of centerline - the door isn't an issue as it can be closed as long as you CAN close it!), but keep that number in mind when reorienting your toilet. Without relocating your shutoff or toilet flange, your spacing to the wall and fit might be an issue. I rotated a toilet at my mother's when I did a remodel, but did not want to move the shutoff since that would have put it into an exterior wall that was not insulated all that well (at least by today's standards) and, it can get quite cold there in upstate NY!
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Thanks. I don't think I can make it without tearing down the wall or moving the closet flange. That might just be too much work. I think I will stick with putting the new toilet where the old one is......but take the opportunity now to go and get a vanity, change out the angle stops for the toilet and the vanity, the trap, run a line to the shower and install a light.........
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
So I tore out the vanity and what did I find?

That they installed the cabinet ON THE SUBFLOOR. :mad:

They tiled the wall AROUND the cabinet. :mad:

They tiled the floor AROUND the cabinet. :mad:

What the ****?

I decided that since I hated the yellow tile I'd remove that and I didn't really have much of a choice on the floor so I got my brother over and we took out the floor tile. Came up pretty easily with a hammer and a chisel tool.

Since this house has nearly no exterior insulation, I'm most likely just going to rip down the exterior walls and insulate properly.

2017-05-11 12.28.24.jpg
2017-05-11 12.28.42.jpg
2017-05-11 14.53.25.jpg
2017-05-11 15.09.51.jpg
2017-05-11 15.29.09.jpg
2017-05-11 15.29.14.jpg
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
More pics.

This looks like the original install from 1947 I'd say.

How does this sound as a plan?

Lay down some kind of paper on top of the subloor.
Cut out some wire mesh, fill with sand mix and match existing concrete.
Lay new tile.

Going to have to rip down the bathtub walls to the studs. The tiles won't come off at all. There's a thick layer of plaster of paris and behind that a layer of concrete mud firmly attached to wire mesh.

2017-05-11 15.40.14.jpg
2017-05-11 22.31.03.jpg
2017-05-11 22.31.09.jpg
2017-05-12 19.12.46.jpg
2017-05-12 19.12.57.jpg
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Drain is 1.5" copper. I will solder a 90 onto it and I think I might move the water lines over to the right since I have a single sink 48" cabinet. However, I might have enough clearance even if I don't move it. Going to keep the toilet where it is.
 

WJcandee

Wise One
Messages
3,181
Reaction score
170
Points
63
Location
New York, NY
This is fun to follow! Thanks for all the pics! Frankly, it seems like the toilet makes more sense installed as you plan to install it, rather than how it was installed, if I understand the setup. Looks like you're having fun and going a great job so far!
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Glad you are finding it fun! I am too!

My brother in his impatience to finish seems to have created a nice crack in the concrete below the existing tile.

So now I'm thinking I'm going to just knock out the rest of the concrete, build up the floor with plywood and Shluter Ditra underlayment, and then replace the cast iron flange with a PVC insert.

Are there going to be issues with using the PVC insert that fits inside the existing pipe? I.e. because of the smaller diameter?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-PVC-DWV-Replacement-Closet-Flange-43539/100139480
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
Are there going to be issues with using the PVC insert that fits inside the existing pipe? I.e. because of the smaller diameter?
Not with 4 inch and the one you are thinking about. If you were gluing it in, it would better to have a stainless steel ring. But with the one you pointed to, if the PVC ring breaks, you can take the old one out and put in a new one.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks