Comments/Thoughts On This Layout?

[bk30]

I'm wondering if the plumbing layout pictured here is ok. The idea was to keep the plumbing close to the crawlspace wall and as high as possible without cutting/drilling the new floor joists. The 2" line in the center is a wet vent that serves a single sink and then continues up through the roof (2" the whole way). Again, plumbing serves a single bathroom. Any thoughts?

 

[Standardairconditioner]

Nice pics! Other new members need to realize they must supply pics when they can too.

If it's already done, just use it, enjoy it and leave it if you have no problems. Some of the code nazis here might say otherwise.

For other DIY reading this, you can always cut the ends of joists and turn just that end to a 2x6, and get the correct metal bracket for it too, and sister it if necessary.

I remember I did a tight job once, and was only able to sister joists with 2x4's. Many think that is bad, but a 2x4 sister is better than none at all.

2" is already good enough for tubs, and lets you select a trap with hand nuts and a cleanout. A tailpiece coming down from a tub can be left as 1.5" (OS&B has them that are 12" long), as a block rarely happened here, then adapted into a 2" trap, plenty of space for hair, lego bricks, etc.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I'm wondering if the plumbing layout pictured here is ok.

I am not a pro, but I am confident it is not. It looks to me as if the trap on the left is an S-trap -- down, up, down with no vent.

 

[hj]

standard air should stick to A/C work, not plumbing. The tub has an UNVENTED "S" trap drain and that is illegal under EVERY code, not just to "code Nazis". I suppose that the plugged 2" opening was an attempt to satisfy the requirement for a cleanout on the riser, even though it is also NOT up to code requirements. All in all a good example of someone who thinks ANY ONE can be a plumber if he has enough pipe and fittings.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

If our inspector seen that, he would pull the occupancy permit on the house and no one would be able to live there until a new plan was approved, work completed, and final inspection signed off on.

Some people just don't get it.

 

[bk30]

HJ- Thanks for the heads up. If I drop the trap for the tub lower and run a horizontal pipe between the trap and the 2" combo tee wye (getting rid of the 45s) does that address the S-trap problem? Also, the cast iron riser does have a clean-out below where I tied the PVC in. I should have shown that in the pictures. I added the 3" sanitary tee with a 2" plug to make it easy to access the short section of cast iron riser between the 4" mission coupling and the existing cast iron clean out (not pictured). I wanted to use a 3" test tee for the clean-out but it was too long to fit- hence the use of a 3" sanitary tee. Is it ok to leave it or should I get rid of it? I appreciate the criticism- I definitely don't consider myself a plumber but I'm always looking to learn (this was my attempt at helping a friend who's bathroom had fallen apart). I have no problem fixing it and making it right. Thanks for your expertise.

 

[bk30]

Catcher_chic- I'm open to any wisdom you want to pass along. I appreciate the knowledge base here on the forum and I'm more than willing to correct my mistakes.

 

[Terry]

S trap on the shower, not vented.
Straighten out the piping there and run a vent for it.
A lav can double as a wet vent if it's run in 2".

 

[Reach4]

Would this be close enough?

 

[bk30]

Terry- Thanks for the response. I'll lower the tub trap approximately 4" and connect the trap to the 2" combo tee wye with a straight section of 2" pipe, like Reach4's picture shows. The vertical leg of the 2" combo tee wye is the wet vent for the lavatory (goes up through roof, no other fixtures draining into it other than the lavatory). Does the tub trap need additional venting?

 

[bk30]

Reach4- Thanks for your responses and the picture.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

That will fix the tub vent. We would have to vent the water closet properly also. The cleanout needs to be sized the same as the pipe it serves.

 

[bk30]

Casher_chick- Thanks for your response. How would you vent the water closet properly if you were doing it? I figure I could replace the 90 at the top of the 3" riser with a 3"x3"x2" low-heel 90, and then connect the 2" vertical leg of the low-heel 90 with the 2" wet vent for the lavatory. Also, is that more of a regional requirement? I ask only because HJ and Terry didn't mention changing that. Thanks again for your input.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I am in a state with it's own code. Terry and HJ are out west, and each location falls under a different code. I do not know what your code states, but a properly vented fixture will pass inspection under every plumbing code. I can't see the rest of the structure, so I can't say why they didn't run the stack up the rest of the way. Working after the fact, once you fix the shower, this bath will work fine.

 

[bk30]

Thanks for your response.

 

[hj]

quote; If our inspector seen that, he would pull the occupancy permit on the house and no one would be able to live there until a new plan was approved, work completed, and final inspection signed off on.

That is a bit Draconian, don' t you think, over a single lousy installed drain?

 

[Cacher_Chick]

quote; If our inspector seen that, he would pull the occupancy permit on the house and no one wouldhou be able to live there until a new plan was approved, work completed, and final inspection signed off on.

That is a bit Draconian, don' t you think, over a single lousy installed drain?

That is what happens when people get caught working without a permit here. It is not a bad process, as the drawing has to be submitted when the permit is applied for, and then it is pretty clear whether the homeowner is on the right track before the work ever starts.

They started really buckling down on this here after the mortgage crisis, where a lot of houses were being flipped with hacks doing the work.