Combo Platter of Hot Water Problems

Users who are viewing this thread

Matt Coffman

Being brighter
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Carmel IN
Hello all. We moved into our house in October. It's on a well, and since we moved in there have been issues with faucet aerators clogging, shower heads clogging, and most recently a brand new LG washer shut off valve failing because of sediment (which caused a giant mess).

On the advice of the LG repairman who said he only noticed these problems coming from the hot water supply, I started flushing the hot water heater this morning. I'm seeing plenty of brown sediment, flaky black particles, and this strange gray stringy stuff (see photos). The water heater is an 07 from best I can tell and I have no idea the last time it was flushed.

should I complete the flush and expect things to get better, or dig deeper into some other water quality issues? Thanks as always for your help--this forum is awesome.
 

Attachments

  • 40CD42B3-8985-4006-8D1B-5B205E9915C9.jpeg
    40CD42B3-8985-4006-8D1B-5B205E9915C9.jpeg
    39.6 KB · Views: 119
  • 1D761703-0D63-43A7-B2E7-7F7F8DB0E636.jpeg
    1D761703-0D63-43A7-B2E7-7F7F8DB0E636.jpeg
    123.6 KB · Views: 117

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
my experiance is most water heaters nearly all are never flushed out , so id assume a good chance yours might /likely fits the category.
13 years old its a tank? Id try flushing its free just your time . its time consuming I dont spend a lot of time trying to save old tanks because I dont think its a good use of customers money.
A lot of people around the country are on well and I know quality varies widely no mention of water quality in your well, testing and /or a whole house filter would be concideration. also 13 years is old for a water heater so might want to keep in mind a new heater could be coming in near future
 

Matt Coffman

Being brighter
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Carmel IN
Thanks so much, Jeff. I'm getting to the end of the flush now and it's coming out pretty clean. Possible there was a lot of buildup on the bottom? I didn't mention there's a pretty nice water softener the previous owners installed but didn't seem to keep up with salt. I agree about the whole house filter and the well inspection. Thanks again!
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
the supply lines on water heaters ar sometimes rubber hoses covered with stainless braids . been a lot of discussion on topic like this not a lot of them are solved . getting the softner going would be good.
 

Sarg

Enjoy Learning
Messages
227
Reaction score
51
Points
28
Location
Upstate New York
Just information from limited experience >> The drain valves from the factory are compression valves and will not allow any large sediment to pass through them. I installed a 3/4 ball valve made specifically to flush the tank.
You don't mention if your heater is gas or electric .... if electric you can drain the tank and pull the bottom element so you can use a wet vac with an auto heater hose attached to vacuum out the limescale ... calcium and sediment. While empty change the drain valve and also use a flashlight through the element hole to check your anode. Your tank is 13 years old and you can bet your anode is deteriorated and your tank is rusting from the inside out.
If it were me ............... I would replace the heater and start over. ( Which I just did in November ) If you keep the sediment out of the tank and replace the sacrificial anode rod every few years when it shows deterioration your heater can last many decades.

This site is a wealth of information :
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

And just another suggestion .... while the system is down drain the pressure tank and check the air pressure in it. Should be 2 pounds less than the kick-on switch setting i.e. if your well pump kicks on at 30 psi set the air pressure in tank to 28. If you have not checked it ..... you can almost bet it will be depleted over time.
 

Attachments

  • Drain valve.jpg
    Drain valve.jpg
    10.9 KB · Views: 127
Last edited:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
Also, if you have braided flex lines to or from the WH, those are braid covering a rubber tube. Some of those decompose putting black particles into the hot water, and some don't. Corrugated connector lines will not have that problem.

The supply lines could not account for the hair-like thing, however.

I would put in a whole house cartridge filter, whether you have city water or well water. Somewhere between 25 and 5 microns probably, but even 100 microns would take out the stuff in your pictures, I think.

Bigger will have lower backpressure. Your water may have plenty of pressure which makes filter backpressure less of a concern.
 

Matt Coffman

Being brighter
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Carmel IN
Thank you Jeff, Sarg, and Reach4. I got to the bottom, things clogged up, and eventually dislodged bucket after bucket of gray stuff. I'm not finding the end of it--so I'm thinking it's sediment plus the aforementioned decaying tank. Also, it appears the supply shut off is shot--I can only get the water flow to stop if I turn off at the main supply.

at this point I'm inclined to replace the tank and the shut off. Quote is about $1300 to replace or looks like $600 to do it myself. Should I bite the bullet? Perhaps the plumber could check the pressure as Sarg mentioned.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
at this point I'm inclined to replace the tank and the shut off. Quote is about $1300 to replace or looks like $600 to do it myself. Should I bite the bullet?
Pay for a plumber, and boom it is done. If the plumber does it, it may be done with pipes right to the WH. You may get a thermal mixing valve that you may or may not want-- but he is required to put in.

DIY, you will know more about your system. It will take a few days perhaps. Do not use braided flex connectors. Use corrugated.
 

Sarg

Enjoy Learning
Messages
227
Reaction score
51
Points
28
Location
Upstate New York
My suggestion >>> Learn all you can about your system and how to maintain it. Study the zillion of pages on the site I posted above. Put in a replacement 3/4 ball valve before installing new unit ( Amazon $27. )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZG7SQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do not use any compression valves ... stay with ball valves.When you have the system apart install a ball valve shut off on the cold water entry line for the heater to make your future life easier.
As I said ... I put a new system in a couple months ago ( electric ) and already have a queue of replacement elements, thermostats and two anode rods. If you do regular service on the tank it will last many decades. It is worth the effort.

Checking the tank pressure is very easy... identical to checking tire pressure..... there's a shrader valve on the top of the tank. Again... water pump shut off .... pressure tank drained ( open a faucet )
Be aware a twenty gallon tank only holds about 5 gallons of water .... the air bladder takes up the top of the tank.
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
I was thinking just clearing out sediment maybe changing drain valve to the ball valve . several differant ways to approach. it can be difficult for a person that works 40 hours or 60 hours a week has commute time perhaps or school or busy family life plus some people lack ability doing any home maint. but I too encourage doing things yourself getting to know the systems even if some things must be hired out. the more you know and underestand the better you can decide what you want done
 

Sarg

Enjoy Learning
Messages
227
Reaction score
51
Points
28
Location
Upstate New York
Seems the vast majority enjoy having hot water. Install a water heater and then ignore it not realizing the limited life span if it is not maintained.
What really boggles the brain is the number of folks who have a 80 gallon tank of water in their attic ... over their heads. Seems to me that would make it a priority and a major concern having such a tank rusting away above everything they are working for. Simple awareness of how critical the anode rod is to the survival of the tank. Another lesson I learned the hard way and it only took seven decades.
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
agree most nearly all wont do maintanance. Ive been in this trade half of 7 decades and never had a request to change an anode. of cource ive done mostly new construction but I dont know anyone that does that. Im in southern california city water Im sure there are far worse places for water also in single family homes and mobile homes I run into very few electric water heaters. unless you go way out in the sticks they are all gas with exception to some apartments or condo. I was actualy concidering changing my own (anode) its around 3 or 4 years old
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks