Closet flange problem!

[S K Crume]

We're wanting to move the toilet using an offset flange. We want to cut off the existing flange but it doesn't look like there is enough room to attach the offset. I'm including photos that appear that someone butt-joined a short ring in there and I've never seen anything like that. (sorry I haven't had a chance to clean this out)

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Steve

 

[Reach4]

Let me guess. You are on a slab? This is the second floor and you don't want to open your ceiling? If not, think about access from below.

How much offset are you looking for, and in which direction?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

The remnants of a test cap that was glued below the closet flange.

Offset? What direction are you going? They make toilets that come in 10", 12" and 14" rough.
Or are you offsettting sideways?

 

[S K Crume]

Thanks. Correct, we are on a 2nd floor correct, we are intending to move this sideways.

It really doesn't look like there is enough straight pipe to mount the offset flange, the elbow is very close to the floor so it would raise the flange no less than 1" above the floor.

Follow-up question, what is the best way to remove and replace this rusted out flange?

 

[Reach4]

If the plastic were in an acceptable place, you could use a repair ring.

we are intending to move this sideways.

How far to the right do you need? 0.8 inches? 1.7 inches? Related question: how far to the right would you want?

 

[FullySprinklered]

For the life of me, I can't understand what I'm looking at. Looks like a novelty toilet flange with a test cap, that maybe swivels?

 

[Atomic1]

It does not look like you have enough vertical to use an offset flange. Other option is to pull the subfloor and reconfigure the drain (and pray you dont have a conflict with a floor joist).

If you leave the flange where it is and just want to replace the ring, look at the Oatey Moss Bay 2-piece replacement ring. I used a rotary dremel to carefully cut my old corroded one out. Make sure the subfloor still has enough grabbing strength for the new flange screws....otherwise you're back to pulling the subfloor.

 

[S K Crume]

Well we got the rusted ring off with great difficulty, but now the top of the fitting is 1/2 inch high on one side and 1/4 inch high on the other. The moss bay ring just sits on the floor and not tight around the fitting. Don't know what to do next maybe cut off the flange and insert a new flange? Might have to cut off part of the hub of the new flange since there is not much vertical room to work with. Any ideas? This house was built in the '80s so it came this way new.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[CountryBumkin]

It looks like you had this flange style https://www.grainger.com/product/1C...9437!&ef_id=WJoiPwAAAD9zoHcX:20170301134157:s
But now the flange is broken (metal part rusted off). I don't think a standard flange repair like you bought is going to work.

 

[rstephen]

It looks like you had this flange style https://www.grainger.com/product/1CNW5?gclid=CMeYvc-3tdICFUZbhgodfn4P2A&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAA-_-Plumbing-_-Pipe Fittings and Couplings-_-1CNW5&AL!2966!3!166588805278!!!g!82128169437!&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166588805278!!!g!82128169437!&ef_id=WJoiPwAAAD9zoHcX:20170301134157:s
But now the flange is broken (metal part rusted off). I don't think a standard flange repair like you bought is going to work.[/QUO
Thanks, for the suggestions. We tried to chip out the *&?!spigot flange per you tube but broke the hub

It looks like you had this flange style https://www.grainger.com/product/1CNW5?gclid=CMeYvc-3tdICFUZbhgodfn4P2A&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAA-_-Plumbing-_-Pipe Fittings and Couplings-_-1CNW5&AL!2966!3!166588805278!!!g!82128169437!&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166588805278!!!g!82128169437!&ef_id=WJoiPwAAAD9zoHcX:20170301134157:s
But now the flange is broken (metal part rusted off). I don't think a standard flange repair like you bought is going to work.

Thanks for the suggestions.
We tried to chip out the **&&!spigot flange (see you tube) but instead broke the hub of the closet bend. We had to remove some of the subfloor and cut out the offending parts. We put in new parts and a Sioux City flange with a stainless steel ring. Installed nailers and a new piece of subfloor. Bolted down the flange with six stainless steel screws (no longer cockeyed and the right height!) Some times it just pays to do the job right and not try to redo a crap install.

There was no reason to use a spigot flange as there was plenty of space under the floor. Only way to move the toilet 2 inches like we wanted would be to cut the stack and install a lower tee or use a saddle connection (not code). Do the still make saddle connections?

 

[Reach4]

There was no reason to use a spigot flange as there was plenty of space under the floor. Only way to move the toilet 2 inches like we wanted would be to cut the stack and install a lower tee or use a saddle connection (not code).

A photo of what you had under the subfloor, and a description of where you wanted the flange to be, would have likely resulted in a description of how you might have accomplished that.