Closet flange positioning relative to finished floor

[wbnethery3]

I have a two-story house that is 10 years old. Over the holidays one of the toilets upstairs leaked into the ceiling above our bedroom. When I removed it, I found the original flange was quite rusty. We had seen a wet spot on the ceiling sometime last year, but it never got worse. I (mistakenly) assumed the problem had gone away and didn't go into the ceiling to investigate. This time, it leaked enough that I had to cut out some of the sheetrock to figure out where it was coming from.

Based on the staining on the subfloor, as well as the condition of the flange, I'd guess it has been seeping for a while. I need to replace it, and have been researching this issue. I've found various posts online that discuss how the flange is supposed to be positioned - some say it should ideally be installed over the finished floor, others say it can be as much as 1/4" recessed. In our case, I found the flange to be slightly below the level of the surrounding tile floor - best attempt to measure it was about 1/2".

I apologize - I haven't searched this forum for any sort of similar question... I trust the folks here to give good advice and hope it's a straight-forward answer. What is the industry standard for proper flange position?

 

[Reach4]

I need to replace it, and have been researching this issue. I've found various posts online that discuss how the flange is supposed to be positioned - some say it should ideally be installed over the finished floor,

True.

others say it can be as much as 1/4" recessed.

1/4 inch recessed is not worth special efforts to meet the ideal.

In our case, I found the flange to be slightly below the level of the surrounding tile floor - best attempt to measure it was about 1/2".

Post a photo. There can be alternatives. What is the finished floor made of... porcelain tile, ceramic tile, wood, what?

I apologize - I haven't searched this forum for any sort of similar question...

You might try such a search.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

It depends on the area that you are plumbing in. In the Seattle area, the flange goes on the 3/4" plywood and then the finished flooring comes in, making the flange low. Two stacked wax rings does a good job of it.

 

[wbnethery3]

I’m in the Houston area, but not within any municipal jurisdiction. Assumed the plumbing codes would be pretty similar. It is a ceramic tile floor, but they cut the tile to fit around the flange (which was already installed when they did the flooring work). Attaching a picture of the flange taken prior to its removal.

 

[Reach4]

With two stacked rings, I would worry about vigorous plunging if the line below the toilet got clogged. I suspect that is why Terry has said he uses a wax ring with a plastic horn as the upper ring when he stacks rings. That should help prevent the wax stack from blowing out during pressure. Plunging should not be that same problem if the clog is in the toilet. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....rn-how-much-pressure-should-be-applied.61073/ is one of the threads where the horn is discussed.

If that flange were to fail to hold the bolts later, I would look at a Danco Hydroseat. But with the closet bolts working, I would not take the bolts out.

 

[wbnethery3]

If that flange were to fail to hold the bolts later, I would look at a Danco Hydroseat. But with the closet bolts working, I would not take the bolts out.

Well that isn’t an option... it was too rusty and I didnt trust it.

 

[wbnethery3]

With two stacked rings, I would worry about vigorous plunging if the line below the toilet got clogged. I suspect that is why Terry has said he uses a wax ring with a plastic horn as the upper ring when he stacks rings. That should help prevent the wax stack from blowing out during pressure. Plunging should not be that same problem if the clog is in the toilet. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....rn-how-much-pressure-should-be-applied.61073/ is one of the threads where the horn is discussed.

If that flange were to fail to hold the bolts later, I would look at a Danco Hydroseat. But with the closet bolts working, I would not take the bolts out.

Now that I'm at a computer instead of on my phone, I can say "thank you" for your comments... I've looked at the other links and you're clearly a meticulous member of this forum.

To clarify what I said above, I decided to remove the flange because it was rusty, and because the OSB subfloor is still wet and I'm not sure I'm not going to need to repair it first. The floor doesn't move at all, so I think I'm safe... I'm just letting it dry out to see how well it will hold screws. I may also need to break out the tile around the flange just to get the new one in. The simplest solution appears to be the split flange like this:

 

[Reach4]

The simplest solution appears to be the split flange like this:

Similar to that would be the Sioux Chief Ringer. http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/spacer-repair/ringer

but it is one piece.