Closet flange complete gone - how to reset toilet?

[Treeman]

There's a few YouTube videos showing the floor repair:

...not sure why he used a square hole.

I suppose one of these would not bridge your rotted floor?: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-C...MIi6Xu3LP84wIVjobACh03jQ6xEAYYASABEgKtWvD_BwE

But, none seem to be made of stainless. Just zinc coated.

 

[Rmgolob]

Update - Thanks everyone for the the help.
Here is what I did.
And here is my next question...

I had nothing to lose in trying to fix without cutting out any subfloor.
I used Dap Plastic Wood to fill in for the rotted wood. With the 6 screws, I got plenty of bite and the SS split flange is well anchored.

Now I realize that the PVC pipe is not independently anchored. (It likely never was...) It is fairly rigid, but there is some play.
Is or could that be an issue?
The wax ring will definitely provide a seal.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Treeman]

I'm curious what the experts will recommend. You have an unorthodox situation with the PVC sitting higher and unattached to the flange. The pros will always say that any movement will eventually result in a leak. They often recommend a non-wax ring to accommodate movement.

Can you secure your PVC drain line from below? Are you taking into account the finished floor height?

I wonder if you could cut and glue a pvc ring under your part. Screw that down to the floor, then install the metal ring over that.

Maybe abandon the idea of stainless steel and try this unit: Danco 9D0010672X Hydroseat Toilet Flange Repair Kit ..........still, you need to secure your PVC from movement.

 

[Reach4]

Depending on the flooring thickness, you might be able to install the split ring on to of the flooring.

The hydroseat would work. If your existing plastic moves up and down, I think you would want some support to push up to counter to the hydroseat pushing down. The Hydroseat would usually go on top of the finished flooring.

This is going to work out well for you, even thought there is more than one good way.

 

[Jadnashua]

The original anchor ring fit into a groove in the pvc flange thus holding the two together. There are replacements that will do the same thing. If the pvc isn't attached to the ring, just thermal expansion/contraction over the seasons will cause things to move. PVC really expands and contracts a lot with temperature change. I do not know if that will be enough to stress the wax ring and break the seal. Depending on the length of the pipe, you have to consider lateral movement in addition to vertical.

Depending on how the piping is configured, you might be able to use an internal pipe cutter, cut off the existing flange, and install an entirely new one in its place. They also make special bits to ream out the socket of a fitting so a new pipe can be inserted. WIthout seeing the whole picture, it's hard to say what would be best.