Clearance for pressure reducing valve-which type will I need?

[BenPC]

Hi all, I would love to install my own pressure reducing valve for the home (about 100PSI now) but I’m stumped as to where I can put it. First picture is outside main coming in. Second is right behind that wall and then it disappears behind the water heater where it splits. These are really my only two points of entry. Any advice on type I would need and if I can even make it work? Thanks

 

[Dj2]

Install it outside.
1. Remove the ground wire, to make it easy to work...re-install it later.
2. Cut just below the shut off valve and just between the T and the ground wire.
3. Clean the pipes and make them ready to solder.
4. Install a 90 on the floor stub and a short pipe nipple into it.
5. This is where your new shut off will be.
6. From the new shut off, you can install it going up (if there is space) and install the PRV, or continue to the right, install the PRV and then go up.
7. Turn left...connect to the old wall stub.

You will need: a few elbows, coupling, PRV, shut off valve. Do you know how to solder?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[BenPC]

Install it outside.
1. Remove the ground wire, to make it easy to work...re-install it later.
2. Cut just below the shut off valve and just between the T and the ground wire.
3. Clean the pipes and make them ready to solder.
4. Install a 90 on the floor stub and a short pipe nipple into it.
5. This is where your new shut off will be.
6. From the new shut off, you can install it going up (if there is space) and install the PRV, or continue to the right, install the PRV and then go up.
7. Turn left...connect to the old wall stub.

You will need: a few elbows, coupling, PRV, shut off valve. Do you know how to solder?

Thanks! This is so helpful. Didn’t think to take out the shut off valve. I have done quite a bit of my own plumbing repairs but never soldered. I’m going to practice a bit first to learn. Is this the type of job that a first timer can do?

 

[Themp]

One other thing is to keep the hose bib connection before the PRV. This will let you have 100 PSI on the hose bib, which is nice for outside cleaning, washing the car, etc. Means you will need a new T and few more elbows and couplings.

 

[Jadnashua]

The key to successful solder joints is first clean the pipe AND fitting. For someone that is not comfortable soldering pipe, I've found that tinning flux helps. It's 'normal' flux that has some powdered solder in it. It gives you an indication when things are hot enough because the solder in the flux melts...signalling you that it's time to add the solder to complete the joint. Otherwise, with the water based fluxes required these days (versus the acid based stuff that was used for decades), you can overheat the joint, burning things, and making it impossible to get a leak free joint. Heat the fitting all around, or as far as you can get. You cannot solder things if the pipes are wet...the metal won't get hotter than boiling water, which isn't hot enough to melt the solder. You need the pipe open to the air when completing the last joint, otherwise, the hot air expands, and will push through the liquid solder, leaving a leak path. If you've got a shutoff, open it to provide a path for the air to escape.

After cutting the pipe, you need to reform the end so that it's not crimped. Unless you use a hack saw, the tubing cutter will sort of round the end some. They make reamer tools to remove that lip. Failing to do that, especially with the high pressure, creates turbulence and, over time, can actually erode the pipe from the inside if you don't. If interested, look up cavitation.