Clack WS1 Water Softener Issues

[Bannerman]

But isnt the whole point of the electronic valve to calculate hardness on the fly?

The electronic valve only know what you tell it through programming. This is why a lab test is required for well water and a Hach 5b Hardness Test kit is recommended for both well and municipal water. The hardness amount tested at your home is what needs to be programmed. The higher hardness amount which Reach4 suggested, is to cause the controller to regenerate a little sooner, in case there is any hardness fluctuation in your water as could occur if your municipality obtains water from numerous wells, each with different amounts of hardness.

Since your softener's capacity had been exhausted previously, the softener should be regenerated right away with the higher salt amount specified. The higher salt regeneration is needed any time the softener runs low on salt or if capacity is exhausted for any reason.

 

[Reach4]

So you guys are suggesting I change the Capacity setting to 17?

I was suggesting leaving capacity at 36000 and raising the hardness from 17 to 20. That was based on figuring that your softener was computing 2118 gallons of water before regen, and that you were only getting about 1800 of successful softening.

What is the hardness set for now? If set to 14 now, maybe 17 would be enough. You want that Hach 5-b for both the raw water testing and for the softened water testing.

Hardness is a setting, and it is not something that is sensed by the softener.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Badsha]

I will test both raw water and current soft water tomorrow. I will check the manual and figure out how to change the hardness setting. I have Hach 5b. I will also get you the guys the amount of water used per month by the family.

 

[Reach4]

I will check the manual and figure out how to change the hardness setting.

STEP 1I - Press NEXT and ∆ simultaneously for 3 seconds.
STEP 2I – Hardness: Set the amount of hardness in grains of hardness as calcium carbon-
ate per gallon using the ∇ or ∆ buttons.Press REGEN to exit Installer Displays/Settings.

 

[ditttohead]

Water softener resin has some fairly common industry standard attrition algorithms. AN assumption of 5-10% loss per year is not unheard of due to fouling, wear/tear, breakage, loss during backwash etc. Since you have a Hach 5B test kit, do some testing and if you find the system not quite making it to the end of the resin, simply increase your hardness slightly. If you want like new performance you would need to replace the resin occasionally. Most systems are set a with a little extra reserve anyway so this attrition is typically not noticed for many years.

 

[Badsha]

Water softener resin has some fairly common industry standard attrition algorithms. AN assumption of 5-10% loss per year is not unheard of due to fouling, wear/tear, breakage, loss during backwash etc. Since you have a Hach 5B test kit, do some testing and if you find the system not quite making it to the end of the resin, simply increase your hardness slightly. If you want like new performance you would need to replace the resin occasionally. Most systems are set a with a little extra reserve anyway so this attrition is typically not noticed for many years.

System is a little over 2 years old. When should one expect to replace the resin? So you agree like the others to change hardness to 17 or more manual setting?

 

[Bannerman]

I doubt there is anything presently wrong with the resin but expect your issues all relate to not having programmed the appropriate amount of hardness into the controller as well as resin capacity being exhausted and not being restored.

 

[ditttohead]

Sometimes when systems are programmed too tightly with no margin for error, the resin attrition is more prevalent. We have done extensive tesing to show that general use of resin can deplete its capacity. Their is no way to say for sure how long resin will last or how much capacity will be lost over time so guestimates are needed or simple algorithms are used to give us an idea. That being said, I have seen resin last 10-15 years with very little attrition or loss, and I have seen resin last less than a couple months before total failure. Water quality and quantity are the primary determining factors. Test your hardness, always add a couple grains to the result and reprogram the valve. Adding a couple gallons to the salt tank and running a manual regen will bring the resin back to full capacity.

 

[Badsha]

STEP 1I - Press NEXT and ∆ simultaneously for 3 seconds.
STEP 2I – Hardness: Set the amount of hardness in grains of hardness as calcium carbon-
ate per gallon using the ∇ or ∆ buttons.Press REGEN to exit Installer Displays/Settings.

Just measured raw water at 17 GPG. I did what Reach4 suggested. The hardness setting was set to 18, so I upped it to 19.

Regen ran, but what is weird is that I heard the water softener doing its thing at 3am and then again at 4am. I also probably need to check the brine line, I heard air in the line, this issue comes up occasionally. I have to cut the tube a little and refasten the nut, is there a better way to prevent this issue?

Is it ok for the black brine line to be like that?

Brine level after the REGEN - salt sitting below water

Correct Sequence of the Washer/Nut?

 

[Mlandau]

I have a Clack WS1 and I noticed over the last week or so, the display shows "Remaining Capacity 1411" all the time, and the salt level does not seem to change. It's been in my house for 10 years and I really don't know how to check it. I hit the regen button yesterday, but nothing seemed to happen overnight, other than the flashing regen disappearing. The clock is correct and no one has touched anything on it. I am hoping someone has some advice before I call a plumber.
Thank you

 

[Superduper]

I have a Clack WS1 and I noticed over the last week or so, the display shows "Remaining Capacity 1411" all the time, and the salt level does not seem to change. It's been in my house for 10 years and I really don't know how to check it. I hit the regen button yesterday, but nothing seemed to happen overnight, other than the flashing regen disappearing. The clock is correct and no one has touched anything on it. I am hoping someone has some advice before I call a plumber.
Thank you

Check YouTube videos from "Gary the Water Guy"... he goes in depth about the Clack WS1, including how it works, programming, setup, etc. Maybe too much info, but it helped me set up my system.

If salt level isn't dropping, an issue with the brine draw. Put the valve in brine draw, and check for suction on the brine hose. You may need to clean out the brine valve in the brine well (in the salt tank, not on the Clack valve) -- I had a clog in that prevented adequate brine draw.

Also, check that the meter is reporting flow when you are running water. A bad meter, or something keeping it from spinning, would lead to the valve being 'stuck' on reporting gallons left -- it doesn't think you're using water. The meter is easy to pull out and check. Again, Gary's videos show it all..

You can put the WS1 into immediate regen by holding down the regen button for >3 seconds; pushing it quicker will delay the regen until the programmed time.

Good luck

 

[Mlandau]

Check YouTube videos from "Gary the Water Guy"... he goes in depth about the Clack WS1, including how it works, programming, setup, etc. Maybe too much info, but it helped me set up my system.

If salt level isn't dropping, an issue with the brine draw. Put the valve in brine draw, and check for suction on the brine hose. You may need to clean out the brine valve in the brine well (in the salt tank, not on the Clack valve) -- I had a clog in that prevented adequate brine draw.

Also, check that the meter is reporting flow when you are running water. A bad meter, or something keeping it from spinning, would lead to the valve being 'stuck' on reporting gallons left -- it doesn't think you're using water. The meter is easy to pull out and check. Again, Gary's videos show it all..

You can put the WS1 into immediate regen by holding down the regen button for >3 seconds; pushing it quicker will delay the regen until the programmed time.

Good luck

Thank you will do.

 

[Mlandau]

Check YouTube videos from "Gary the Water Guy"... he goes in depth about the Clack WS1, including how it works, programming, setup, etc. Maybe too much info, but it helped me set up my system.

If salt level isn't dropping, an issue with the brine draw. Put the valve in brine draw, and check for suction on the brine hose. You may need to clean out the brine valve in the brine well (in the salt tank, not on the Clack valve) -- I had a clog in that prevented adequate brine draw.

Also, check that the meter is reporting flow when you are running water. A bad meter, or something keeping it from spinning, would lead to the valve being 'stuck' on reporting gallons left -- it doesn't think you're using water. The meter is easy to pull out and check. Again, Gary's videos show it all..

You can put the WS1 into immediate regen by holding down the regen button for >3 seconds; pushing it quicker will delay the regen until the programmed time.

Good luck

Super Duper - thank you for getting me over to "Gary the Water Guy" on YouTube. I was able to diagnose the problem, a broken meter, as well as a salt tank that was clogged. I chopped the salt at the bottom of the tank, emptied it, and replaced the meter. Gary's videos were superb.