Choosing New Home softening/filter system

[MDK8998]

We have a Culligan Super S that was installed when we bought the home. We had replaced the tank but it is time for that again. In addition, the backflush /purex part of the system is NOT working right. It pulls the entire bottle in one regen, and leaves the whole system smelling horrid.
We are two in the household, two baths, dishwasher. Private well, pressure tank.
We'd like to get away from the Culligan system (proprietary) but we can self maintain/ install. Any recommendations based on the info I have below.
Well record shows GPM 11
Well does silt in and we have to have it bailed every 3rd yr. Our micron filter helps to eliminate that.


PH: 7
FREE CHLORINE: .1
SATURATION INDEX: LOW
TOTAL ALKALINITY: 37
TOTAL CHLORINE: .1
TOTAL HARDNESS: 26
CYA: 2
SALT: NA
TDS: NOT TESTED

 

[Reach4]

I suggest a lab water test on your raw water. I suspect this test was after the Super S, because the chlorine is not zero... presuming you did not recently sanitize your well. I like kit90 from http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ditttohead]

Agreed, a good water test would really help us determine a proper system design. Karlabs is great, NTLLabs is also one to consider. I prefer the test results from NTL, mainly because I have to review dozens a day and the NTL labs test results saves me a lot of time.

http://www.ntllabs.com/Merchant2/me...NTL&Product_Code=9003&Category_Code=Homeowner

 

[MDK8998]

I suggest a lab water test on your raw water. I suspect this test was after the Super S, because the chlorine is not zero... presuming you did not recently sanitize your well. I like kit90 from http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/

Water was straight from the well. The hot tub company provided the testing. We'll get better tests and get back to you. We have not sanitized the well since last fall after replacing the water supply line, updating the frost free hydrant and replacing the pressure tank. We usually do it 2 x a year but didn't want to skew results.

 

[MDK8998]

Our water table is very shallow--we are in the base of a valley, and it fluctuates with seasons. High water is coming with spring flows. Our well is only 52' deep. Should we test more often or test a couple of times over the course of the year before deciding on a new system?

 

[ditttohead]

LOL, spa testing.. is not well water testing.

Looking forward to the test results. I am sure we can assist you in getting a properly designed water system.

A single test should be fine. Shallow wells tend to fluctuate a little more than deeper wells but we can accommodate some variances easily.

 

[MDK8998]

Here's the report. I appreciate the feedback!

 

[ditttohead]

Very interesting water. Very bad LSI, very corrosive, very low tds, high iron, manganese etc...

I would recommend pH correction, iron reduction, manganese reduction, and corrosion control. This would be a good job for neutralizer injection, possibly oxidant injection, a small contact tank, and a Katalox light system. Fairly simple. Can you install equipment near the well pump pressure switch?

 

[ditttohead]

oops

 

[MDK8998]

Okay, home is a double wide. We have all PEX line. We have a pressure tank under the house, with the water filter system inside the house, directly above the water pressure tank in a closet. (luck, not planning as we didn't install it).

 

[ditttohead]

Can you post a picture of your existing equipment?

 

[MDK8998]

The photos do not include the micron filter canister that is just beyond the outlet tube to the right. We use a 1 micron universal polypropylene cartridge in it. We change it about once per month. The photo also does not show the full charcoal tank with the bleach bottle sitting at the bottom with the intake tube for drawing it to wash the tank.
This photo shows the Culligan Super S control unit on top of the charcoal tank. The bleach bottle sits at the lower left with the intake hose along that side. The connections at the back wall going right are both the <in> and <out> with the micron filter at that right side.
We have always had issues with water pressure drops when a toilet flushes or faucet is on and another is turned on. We planned to do some PEX replacement of inside plumbing --at some point.
The second photo is of the top of the control with the bypass valve and more. Not sure if you need more but really, this is all there is to it. The water pressure tank is directly below the floor under the tank. The source pipe comes up through the floor inside the closet within 2' of the charcoal tank.
Can I tell you anything more? What else would help?

 

[Bannerman]

We have always had issues with water pressure drops when a toilet flushes or faucet is on and another is turned on.

the micron filter canister that is just beyond the outlet tube to the right. We use a 1 micron universal polypropylene cartridge in it.

Have you ever removed the filter cartridge or bypassed the filter and then tested pressure drop? Depending on the cartridge physical size, the 1 micron maybe the highest source of restriction which may also be contributing to the issues experienced with the Super S.

If the purpose of the 1 micron filter is to remove silt, there are other less restrictive filter methods.

 

[ditttohead]

How much room do you have, how good do you want the water to be and what is your budget for this. Considering the LSI issue and some other problems, it can be corrected or ignored depending on the budget.

Some type of pH control either a calcite filter or sodium hydroxide injection, some oxidant injection, a small contact tank, and filtration to remove the iron... not complex, but so many variables. Do you have adequate space for some equipment?