Chlorine injection works until I turn the water on.

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Bannerman

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I was able to drop the water pressure from the well pump where it drops below 80psi for at least a few seconds before the pump kicks on. If I drop it more than that, I get no pressure at the house.
60 psi will be usually more than sufficient pressure for most residential applications.

In reviewing your photos, I see there are other water treatment devices located after the contact tank. Have you attempted to bypass the back washing filter and softener individually to determine if water flow and there for pressure will improve even while the system is at 60 psi? The situation you describe above is common when the softening resin has been chlorine damaged and will require replacement.
 

Bfgoodmudder

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60 psi will be usually more than sufficient pressure for most residential applications.

In reviewing your photos, I see there are other water treatment devices located after the contact tank. Have you attempted to bypass the back washing filter and softener individually to determine if water flow and there for pressure will improve even while the system is at 60 psi? The situation you describe above is common when the softening resin has been chlorine damaged and will require replacement.
I hadn’t thought of bypassing the filters. Will keep that in mind but the pressure was good before I started to try to get it to drop. But good news, I believe I made progress. It’s described in new post. I’ll attach the link below.

 

Bfgoodmudder

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And for those who don’t like links, I’ll paste the text here. The pic won’t load. Too big. Sorry




I think I figured it out. Removed the big 80 gal tank and replaced it with an empty media tank and swapped the fleck 2510 aio head to it, as pictured on the left. Then I piped the chlorine injection line to the 2510 so instead of air injection, it’s now chlorine injection. Works like a charm. Was unable to get the injector to work when it was piped directly into the water flow but when it’s injected into the aio, it works great.

The black media tank on the right, where the aio head was before, now has a 5610 head on it. That tank has media in it as does the tank in the center. So, when water is turned on at the house, it starts to flow and the flow meter I installed senses the water flow and kicks on an electrical outlet which turns on the injection pump which injects chlorine into the left tank oxidizing the iron, allowing it to be filtered by the media in the right tank first, then flows to the middle tank which also has media and pulls brine from the salt tank to create the ionization process which softens the water and finally, sends it to the house kitchen and bathroom faucets. When the water pressure drops, the well pump kicks on and bumps the pressure back up to keep water moving through the system and to the house.

It’s a lot to go through for good water but totally stoked I finally figured it out. Took me over a year. I was able to source all of this equipment for next to nothing compared to what it would cost to buy or hire it done. I have less than $500 bucks in all of it. Took patience and persistence learning how to filter water and the trial and error of trying different set ups. But it can be done without spending thousands of dollars on expensive equipment and service plans.

There is some upkeep. The salt tank and chlorine tank have to be refilled and the equipment does need periodic maintenance. The fleck meter heads are probably some of the best though once you figure out how to use them. Everybody sells the digital meter heads with Bluetooth all the fancy stuff but it’s really not necessary.

I’m more than willing to share my experience if anyone out there needs help. Florida water is full of iron so I know there’s people out there with orange bath tubs and sink drains like mine were.
 
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