Check Valve

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Grunt

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Found a check valve on my system when replacing pump/pressure tank etc. Ran new schedule 40 to it from pump & new 1.5 sch 40 adapter to screw into it. That was appx 2 monthes ago, today found adapter had cracked where threads end at junction of female / slip end of adapter. Suspect I possibly screwed it in too tight but unsure & that thru pressure fluctions & or expansion contraction of temp swings it cracked. Normally am very careful when screwing plastic into metal. Since I am going to replace thought I might as well replace check valve since it's well over 30 years old. Did some research & there are full port check valves made by US Valve co. but they run $250 - $ 300 dependant upon if you want stainless steel etc. I remember someone talking about a check valve that had a more laminer flow than the one I have and that it had some type of egg shaped seating device. The one I have on right now is the old conventional spring / disk seating type. Am trying to find the name of the one that has the egg or bullet shaped seating device.
V / R
Dwayne
 

Valveman

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The pipe probably cracked from the water hammer caused by the above ground check valve, not from over-tightening. The check valve on the submersible pump is the only one you need.
 

Grunt

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The pipe probably cracked from the water hammer caused by the above ground check valve, not from over-tightening. The check valve on the submersible pump is the only one you need.
Not a submersible pump, is shallow well jet pump IMG_1836.JPG remember now Cary ? And not pipe that cracked was cracked at last thread of 1.5 sch 40 male adapter that is screwed into check valve. You can't see it in this picture but check valve is on suction line appx 4 feet from pump. Am looking to replace check valve & the male adapter just looking for a check valve that has better laminar flow thru it.
V / R
Dwayne
PS: Did some more reading last night you were blogging (duking it out) with some supposed engineers about vfd's vs cycle stops on some other site back in 2011 & like I told you before reading those posts for 15 minutes or so is better than a sleeping pill which is just more I have to be thankful to you for.
V / R Dwayne
 

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Grunt

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You had last posted about your shallow well pump over two months ago, right?
Right, Here's picture of my check valve & a picture of the adapter you should be able to see where the crack is by the light shining thru the crack.
V / R Dwayne
36305-6946c5c1c69651c48845deed560d3d93.jpg
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Valveman

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Just catching up after a day or two. Reading fast and answering several. Usually PVC screwed into a check valve splits from water hammer. But I can't see where the check valve is in the system? Is it on the suction line? Don't go to sleep on me now. I have more questions before I spout off another answer. :)
 

Grunt

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Just catching up after a day or two. Reading fast and answering several. Usually PVC screwed into a check valve splits from water hammer. But I can't see where the check valve is in the system? Is it on the suction line? Don't go to sleep on me now. I have more questions before I spout off another answer. :)
Yes on the suction line appx 4 feet from suction side of pump. There was a schedule 40 male adapter there for over 30 years screwed into the check valve. I installed new one when I replaced pump & pressure tank etc. 2 monthes latter a crack developed in the new adapter I installed. The old check valve I am wanting to replace due too age, was not having any problem with it, it's over 30 years old & I think there is a better designed type of check valve on the market that has better flow thru it & am trying to find one.
V / R Dwayne
 
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LLigetfa

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For Cary the speed reader:
You can't see it in this picture but check valve is on suction line appx 4 feet from pump.
At first I thought maybe vibration cracked it but 4 feet away from the pump should not expose it to much vibration unless the 4 feet is a perfect harmonic to the frequency.
 

Grunt

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I was thinking vibration as well. Could also not be exactly straight. A little bind to one side will stress crack fittings at the thread.
I believe your right about not being exactly level / straight which caused a slight bind which is the prmary causeof it cracking. The next one will be leveled / plumbed to the extreme & strapped so no movement. What I am mainly looking for is a check valve that has less friction loss thru it. Some monthes ago I saw one being discussed & thought it was on this sight but can't find it now. It had an egg hape or somewhat bullitt shape to the seating device allowing the water to flow thru with less resistance. It was described as allowing the water to flow around the seating device akin to air flowing over an air plane wing.
If I find it before someone infoes me here about it I will post it so all can see.
Also going to use schedule 80 on the suction side from now on.
V / R
Dwayne
 

Grunt

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Schedule 40 male adapters are a very weak fitting. Maybe it broke from vibration. I never use male adapters only schedule 80 toe nipples
Had originaly planed on using schedule 80 but big box & others quit stocking it & didn't want to run around piece mealing from one place to another, never had this problem before what was there was schedule 40 & lasted over 30 years, starting to believe the sch 40 not made quite as well as it used to be.
V / R
Dwayne
 

LLigetfa

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Why even have a topside check? Is the footvalve not working? Maybe replace it with a full port ballvalve if you want it to make repriming easier.
 

Texas Wellman

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It wasn't the check valve that cracked it was the 1.5 schedule 40 male adapter that was screwed into the check valve
V / R
Dwayne
Understood but you said you wanted to replace the check valve. At the flow you're pulling I don't think you need anything special.
 

Grunt

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Understood but you said you wanted to replace the check valve. At the flow you're pulling I don't think you need anything special.
Been out in the heat cuttin up large downed tree hope this makes some sense to you; I try at every turn (so to speak) at having the least amount of friction loss on both suction & pressure side. Every small amount adds up, IE larger control valves, pipe runs, full port gate & ball valves & other items. I know that there will always be friction loss no matter what but I try to limit it when & where I can for whatever small improvements I can achieve. Don't take this reply as a shot across your bow. I may just be anal about nearly everything I work on. Still tweaking the system, improvements so far have been very good to great.
Since Cary will probably read this I need to tell him about that larger tank his girls accidentally sent me. I packed it back up into the box with the pieces of foam that it was packed in & it's just sittin in one of the garages. It causes me some twinges of guilt every time I see it since I didn't pay for it. Even though you said just keep it & don't worry about it--well I believe I found a way to get it back to you without any inconvience or cost to either of us. It has come to my attention from a couple of those engineers at other sites that you are an extremely ardent Jacksonville Jaguars football team fan so much so that you even come here to watch their pratice & training sessions. Next time your in town call me I will meet you at the stadium & give you the tank. Don't worry I won't tell anyone that your such an ardent fan of the Jaguars, I understand what a detrimental effect that could have on your standings within this community not to mention your customer base.
V / R
Dwayne :p ;)
 
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Valveman

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I have eleven more emails, messages, and forum threads to reply to this morning. I'll do this one first. I am short handed and have to do everything myself these days, so it maybe a while before I get to go to see the Jaguars. But I appreciate the idea. :)

Friction loss with a CSV system is a little different than others. The CSV actually puts additional friction loss on the pump when you need it to pump small amounts of water. Friction loss only really matters when you are trying to use the maximum flow rate the pump can produce. Most people have a Cycle Stop Valve because they rarely if ever use the maximum flow the pump can produce, which makes friction loss a moot point. So when you do try to use max pump flow, if the CSV is set for 50 PSI and you have 10 PSI total friction lose, you will only get 40 PSI out of the pump. This isn't much of a difference in house pressure. 40 PSI constant for a really high flow use, may not even be noticed in a house that has 50 PSI constant from a CSV when lower flow rates are being used.
 

Ballvalve

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Been out in the heat cuttin up large downed tree hope this makes some sense to you; I try at every turn (so to speak) at having the least amount of friction loss on both suction & pressure side. Every small amount adds up, IE larger control valves, pipe runs, full port gate & ball valves & other items. I know that there will always be friction loss no matter what but I try to limit it when & where I can for whatever small improvements I can achieve. Don't take this reply as a shot across your bow. I may just be anal about nearly everything I work on. Still tweaking the system, improvements so far have been very good to great.
Since Cary will probably read this I need to tell him about that larger tank his girls accidentally sent me. I packed it back up into the box with the pieces of foam that it was packed in & it's just sittin in one of the garages. It causes me some twinges of guilt every time I see it since I didn't pay for it. Even though you said just keep it & don't worry about it--well I believe I found a way to get it back to you without any inconvience or cost to either of us. It has come to my attention from a couple of those engineers at other sites that you are an extremely ardent Jacksonville Jaguars football team fan so much so that you even come here to watch their pratice & training sessions. Next time your in town call me I will meet you at the stadium & give you the tank. Don't worry I won't tell anyone that your such an ardent fan of the Jaguars, I understand what a detrimental effect that could have on your standings within this community not to mention your customer base.
V / R
Dwayne :p ;)

What you are thinking of is a ball cone check valve. I have posted links to these long ago. Here is a nice Apollo, probably US made still:
https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Valve...=1501389312&sr=1-23&keywords=check+ball+valve
You can find them for less if you search a bit. In my experience, these close without hammer or chatter, dependant on the installation

Here is another https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8EZJW/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options
91l-rtXThZL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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