Check Valve right before pressure tank?

[Robert_T]

Hi,

Through some investigation, I believe I have a failing/failed check valve on my submersible pump causing the pump to cycle every 10 minutes.

I have contacted some local plumbers and well service companies regarding this. Two of the companies (one plumber, one well service) have suggested that I/they install a check valve right before the pressure tank coming from the well instead of pulling up the pump to replace or add a check valve before the pump. It obviously less expensive to install the valve next to the pressure tank, its also something I can do myself.

Is this (installing the valve by the tank) a good/acceptable course of action, or will it lead to more problems?

Would it be wiser to go the more expensive route and pull the pump?

If were to go with the check valve at the pressure tank, would it be better to pull the pump in the summer to replace the valve or is it unnecessary?

 

[Reach4]

I have contacted some local plumbers and well service companies regarding this. Two of the companies (one plumber, one well service) have suggested that I/they install a check valve right before the pressure tank coming from the well instead of pulling up the pump to replace or add a check valve before the pump. It obviously less expensive to install the valve next to the pressure tank, its also something I can do myself.

A reasonable workaround. You can parallel that with a ball valve that you can open once you get your well pump pulled some day.

Is this (installing the valve by the tank) a good/acceptable course of action, or will it lead to more problems?

Would it be wiser to go the more expensive route and pull the pump?

I would take the workaround for now and until there is another problem. I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

It is a bad idea that could cause surface water to contaminate the well. Go the extra expense and pull the pump if it is not something you can do.

10 minutes between cycles sounds more like a leak than a failed check valve. If that leak is between the well and the house, there is a strong possibility of contaminating the well.

 

[Robert_T]

It is a bad idea that could cause surface water to contaminate the well. Go the extra expense and pull the pump if it is not something you can do.

10 minutes between cycles sounds more like a leak than a failed check valve. If that leak is between the well and the house, there is a strong possibility of contaminating the well.

First, thanks for the replies,

How interesting.

I have ball valve on both sides of the T. If I close the valve on the well side (while having the pump off), and leave it for a while even hours, then open it up there is no sudden pressure drop from water that would have leaked out during that time, there is no air added to the line either.

The well line seems to hold the pressure with the ball valve closed which is a bit weird for a ruptured pipe above the water line in the well, no?

 

[LLigetfa]

The well line seems to hold the pressure with the ball valve closed which is a bit weird for a ruptured pipe above the water line in the well, no?

How do you know it holds pressure? Do you have a gauge between the pump and the ball valve?
You've not said what the static water level is so we don't know if a leaking check valve at the pump would create enough suction to create a partial vacuum in the line.
If it is a leak in the horizontal run and the check valve at the pump is still holding, the water will not drain out of the pipe when you close the ball valve. The risk there is that the check valve will eventually leak when it doesn't have pressure against it to help hold it closed. With a hole in the pipe and a leaking check valve, contaminated ground water can get sucked in.

 

[Valveman]

If you have a hole in the drop pipe, adding a check valve before the tank will cause air in the lines. If the check valve on the pump is leaking, adding an additional check valve at the tank will cause water hammer when the pump starts. The only way I would add a check valve at the tank is if there is so much snow I couldn't get the pump pulled. Even then it would be temporary until I could get to the pump.

 

[Reach4]

I have ball valve on both sides of the T. If I close the valve on the well side (while having the pump off), and leave it for a while even hours, then open it up there is no sudden pressure drop from water that would have leaked out during that time, there is no air added to the line either.

The well line seems to hold the pressure with the ball valve closed which is a bit weird for a ruptured pipe above the water line in the well, no?

You are not supposed to have a shut-off valve before the pressure switch, because if that got closed by mistake, it would burn out the pump.

But since you have one, your test and conclusion seem valid to me.