Check Valve and Pressure Switch

Users who are viewing this thread

Yar02169

Member
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Quincy, MA
I just finished a long post regarding issues in changing to a new ball Check Valve, thanks again for the help.

New issue: Would the new CV (different spring) change the trip point of the pressure switch?
My pump no longer shuts off, and I'm thinking the spring rate of the CV has changed things. I'd rather a second opin ion before I start adjusting the pressure switch.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,882
Reaction score
4,433
Points
113
Location
IL
New issue: Would the new CV (different spring) change the trip point of the pressure switch?
Shouldn't. I would drop the pressure switch settings and adjust the air precharge in the tank to 3 PSI below the cutoff pressure.

You can repeat the troubleshooting for air leaks as discussed on your original thread.

I see that you have a current photo of the improved system posted below.
 
Last edited:

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
How much pressure does it build?

Is there trash in the pressure switch or pressure sensing line?
 

Yar02169

Member
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Quincy, MA
What a pretty picture. :)

Now it shuts off at 36 PSI. I can monitor that and adjust if need be.

One quirk that I did notice today. I opened the spigot, and that's gauge went all the way to Zero PSI, and after maybe 5 seconds the pump kicked on. The gauge answer switch are on the same branch. I'll post/attach a visual.
 

Attachments

  • 1471875951748-843582671.jpg
    1471875951748-843582671.jpg
    95.6 KB · Views: 209
  • 1471876135123-803925964.jpg
    1471876135123-803925964.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 238

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,882
Reaction score
4,433
Points
113
Location
IL
One quirk that I did notice today. I opened the spigot, and that's gauge went all the way to Zero PSI, and after maybe 5 seconds the pump kicked on.
That would tend to say that the path to the pressure switch was mostly clogged, or that the pressure switch is sticky, or the contacts are not making good contact. If you do not hear the click until 5 seconds after the pressure switch goes to zero, that could be the nipple. If the click occurs right away, the problem is not the nipple.

That is a short nipple you have on your switch. So I am thinking that a new pressure switch and a new brass nipple would be a good idea. Or you could start by inspecting the nipple and the input to the switch. But changing nipple and switch seem quick.
 
Last edited:

Yar02169

Member
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Quincy, MA
The nipple area looked clean. I took apart the back of the switch. I can see how the diaphragm had trouble making the switch work rapidly, the stuff in there solidified! A little cleaning, and it's working much better, it will get me through this year's lawn watering season.
 

Attachments

  • 20160822_111954.jpg
    20160822_111954.jpg
    97.8 KB · Views: 215
  • 20160822_111929.jpg
    20160822_111929.jpg
    100.8 KB · Views: 223
  • 20160822_113009.jpg
    20160822_113009.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 220
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks