Cheap 110v motors and wet ends

[Yuba]

Long story short.. my well pump cycles all day and it pooped the bed. It was a bit older and I use an insane amount of water. At least 2500 gallons a day. For how much water it pumped and the age, it did great. It's a 1/2hp 110v 3 wire. My Cap blew last year and looking around, nowhere local carried anything for 110v. No cap, no box, no motors
Now, i don't know how I'm gonna find a replacement quick. I need water. I haven't seen any 3 wire 110 pumps. I live off grid and 110v suits me. I was looking around at some budget pumps. All of the 3 wire 1/2hp pumps are 220 and max out at like 150ft and I'm pretty sure that's super low flow to an open tank. Wtf? I get like 8gpm with 175 ft of head and i use a pressure tank. I know the right goulds end on a 1/2hp Franklin can do it no problem and would be exactly what i need but i don't want to spend the money.
What cheap motors and pump ends could do it?
I don't want to spend allot. Unfortunately i need water FAST. 3/4 HP isn't an option at all. And i reeeaaaly don't wanna use 220. 3 wire isn't optional either.

 

[Valveman]

Don't know why anyone would use 115V on a well pump. 230V is half the amperage, starts easier on a generator, and there are lots of 230V options. Your wet end is probably fine. Cycling only takes out the motor unless it breaks the pump shaft. Any 1/2HP motor will fit it. Hallmark makes up to 1HP in 115V, but I don't think that is a good idea. You can buy a complete Hallmark for less than a Goulds motor. Just take the motor off and use the Goulds wet end.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Your start cap blew last year, and now you want a 2-wire pump motor in stock in Sacramento urgently?

I think you should be thinking of overnight shipping, but you don't want to spend.

 

[Reach4]

Your start cap blew last year, and now you want a 2-wire pump motor in stock in Sacramento urgently? Have you tried a new start cap?

I think you should be thinking of overnight shipping, but you don't want to spend.

 

[Yuba]

Sorry. That came out confusing. When i say 3 wire isn't optional, i mean IT HAS TO BE 3 Wire.
I bet my pump starts 50x a day.
The reason for the 110 is because I'm off grid. My solar is 220 but The pump i have i can run off my little 2000 suitcase generator in a pinch or a single inverter. Off grid something always happens. Small generators are only 110v.

Valve man.
I actually have an unused Hallmark 1/2hp 110.. but it's 2 wire. Are u saying them china motors will bolt up just fine and the spline matches? Are all pumps pretty much universal? I don't know if those Chinese pumps are really realistic rated . The one i have doesn't draw that much power. compared to the one in my well. Maybe it's the pumping conditions and wet end. I was using it to pump water up a hill to the other side of my property and it was just a trickle into an open tank. But I'm not sure if that motor was really .5hp. Also i have a 3 wire 3/4 set in a tank and the control boxes are trash. The wire is tiny, there is no relay in the box (is it in the pump or is it magic) and i had to replace every single thing in it from wires to thermal reset button to the switch.

I was hoping for something a little better but not quite top of the line. Something priced like a hardware store pump but with a more useful curve. Why are all hardware store pumps super high volume low pressure? Maybe just somewhere with better pricing. So far the best i could find is a pentair motor for 600$ from the local driller. Seems taxed for a pentair. And that leaves me with reusing the wet end that is probably at least 15 year old to save money.

 

[Reach4]

If I wanted to pump with a Honda 2000, I would use an appropriate 1/2 HP SQ pump. Easy on generators. It is 2-wire, but still starts and runs with that 2000.

Not cheap.

5SQ05-140
5SQ05-180

10SQ05-160

 

[Valveman]

All motors and pumps that I know of are Nema standard. They all have 1.5" shaft stick up and the same spline and bolt pattern. I have not tried the Hallmark, but it looks the same. Any motor you can find should fit the old Goulds pump, which I am sure is good. I usually replace the motor 2 or 3 times before the pump ends wears out.

50 cycles a day is a lot. Doubling the size of tank or adding another the same size will cut that in half. Using a Cycle Stop Valve would reduce the cycles even more, but would cause longer run times at lower amperage and use more Kw per gallon just like a VFD does.

Still didn't say what the pump was?? I am guessing it is a 15-20 GPM, 1/2HP, which won't build any pressure. They sell the weird high volume/low pressure pumps on the Internet for cheap for some reason. The pump ends won't build enough pressure to work with a pressure switch. But for that price you can throw the liquid end away and just use the motor. Yeah a true 1HP in 115V should draw about 17-18 amps, and I think the Hallmark is only rated for 10-12 or so. Be hard to have a large enough electric circuit to start a true 1HP on 115V.

 

[Yuba]

Seems like the check valve in the pump is leaking. There wasn't water in the pipe until the bottom. There was a second valve before the tank so i didn't notice. Seems odd because i never noticed any water hammer. Maybe it was holding water in the pipe with suction? Its a 7k2227. Are these screw in type check valves universal? Might i be able to use one meant for a different 1.25" discharge pump? I really don't like the idea of a nipple and check valve on my threads..

 

[Valveman]

Any spring loaded metal check valve will work. They make male X female check valves. But nothing wrong with a nipple as long as it is brass or stainless.

 

[Yuba]

I don't mean external checks. I mean an internal check like the ones that come in the pump. I tried a couple local goulds dealers and they don't carry them. I googled the part number 7k2227 and one result came up. ships in a couple weeks depending on manufacturer availability so i don't think they even keep it in stock.
I saw seemingly the same valve in a Franklin. Just screws in the discharge outlet below the mpt thread. So I'm wondering if they are sorta universal or compatible. If not, I'll just pull it out and put an external one on.

 

[Reach4]

Dean Bennett Supply Company | Well supplies in Denver, CO | Dean Bennett Supply | Water Well Pumps, Windmills and More

Dean Bennett Supply Company | Well supplies in Denver, CO | Dean Bennett Supply | Water Well Pumps, Windmills and More

www.deanbennettsupply.com

There are two with 1-1/4 MIP on one end.

 

[Yuba]

Valveman: man, thank you for your replies. Are you there guy who invented the csv? I use one for my irrigation. It was the only way i could figure out how to use one pump for my entire property with varying flow zones and elevation. I didn't use to use it for my house because i don't like storage water but after seeing how bad this pump and cable is beet up, I'm going to try it. I'm also going to try to adjust my tank fill schedule to 12 times a day. It will use more power but I'll see how much my daily usage goes up.

I don't even know if it was the check. The pump was finger loose on the threads. Only thing stopping it from spinning off was the wire and rope. It was definitely leaking at the threads.
I took the internal check valve out and the rubber seems ok but the spring doesn't seem that strong when i compare it to this other check i have. Maybe the water weight holds it closed to it doesn't need to be as strong as a brass check spring? Should i swap the spring out? Put an extra check on the pump? This thing kind of looks janky.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah use a good external check valve. Those built in ones from Hallmark are junk, and that is according to Hallmark.