Ok, thats a single handle pull-out.
I'm guessing Delta, or American standard, but hard to see.
Add "philips screwdriver" and to that list of tools.
BEFORE you do ANYTHING...turn the faucet on, then close the valves below to ensure they work...if you see a drip, you'll need to shut off the water main (not going to "torture" you with details for replacing the valves...best to have a plumber do it)...even a small drip adds up over an hour while you do the work.
If thats a Delta there's likely an elongated hex shaped brass nut holding the faucet tight...if so they're easy to grab once the supply lines are removed.
Remove the feed for the spout (chrome plated corrugated line), they usually have a finger crimp, or you unscrew them (lefty loosy, righty tighty)
The copper water lines can be bent until they break...or use tin snips MAKE SURE to remove them from the angle stops below FIRST! (from the shut-off valves below...again, left loose...you'll need 2 3/8" compression ferrils and nuts for the replacement, I keep a literal bucket of them in my truck)
If it were a kohler (from I see, it's not) there are philips screws holding it tight...screwdriver does the trick.
Also, where you have schedule 15 drainage with desanco nuts...you might remove them to make a little space while you work...you might consider having a plumber redo the set-up there later on.
As it is, the basin on one side is likely to overflow into the adjacent basin when you pull the plug on a full sink of dirty dish water.
Schedule 40 is required by code in my state for anything after the tailpiece...but that apparently differs from state to state.