Cast Iron Tub Install - 5 x 8 Bathroom

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FoakPa

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1950's bathroom with wallboard & plaster walls...has been completely gutted...down to 2 x 4 walls now
Sorry if this has been ask before....

Just purchased Kohler Villager Cast Iron Tub 60" x 30" X 14" ( 318 lbs ).....installing to a 5' x 8' bathroom.

Installing tub along the 5' wall......The wall with plumbing was built with 2 x 4 and then firred out another 1 1/2" with square stock....

I have removed the 1 1/2 firring strip to add more room for install....

My question: What is the easiest way to get it installed...& leveled with metal shims ?????

Do I tilt on end & slowly lower down with 4 huge guys handling weight; with 2 guys slowly lifting up on one end & 2 guys lowering on the other end......and inching & working it down slowly.....

Only have about an extra 2" or so.....playing with a length of 62 1/2"...not much room to work with...but maybe that is all I need with 4 guys manhandling it....

Also, what is the best way to get shims under the feet.......

I have a stem wall raised foundation ......so I have access underneath the bathroom & tub for the drain area and all plumbing.

Your advice would greatly appreciated....Thanks in advance...
 
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FoakPa

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Terry, when you set it on end, do you slowly walk it backwards & start to drop the raised end down so that it will catch the ledger board ???
I have reviewed your link.....still a little unsure......
 

Terry

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I put the tub upright on the valve end, and then let it drag it's way down against the back wall. I have two 2x4's on the floor. One to pry with, one to keep it high enough to be able to lift with a 2x4. You can even use a small 2x4 under one as a pivot to lever the tub up or down if needed. The idea it that the tub slowly eases it's way down using it's weight, and not your muscles.

I have never installed metal shims. How in the hell would that even happen?
I would love to install with a "designer/engineer" that wrote those instructions and see how loud he swears.
 

FoakPa

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Terry,

Those fifty or so you have installed in the Seattle area, did you have access to the other side of any of the 3 open studded walls the tub was going into to.....in order to help with lowering down the tub....I am down to the studded wall but with no access from any of the other sides of the wall.....

I understand your link with lowering the tub...it just seems like it would get stuck towards the very end & then one is trying to muscle 316 lbs the last foot or so that it comes slamming unto the sub-floor......I guess that is what the 2 x 4 is for underneath the tub....and the other for prying.

What is the purpose of starting with the drain end down part of the tub and then lowering other end......so ones does not bang into existing plumbing on the way down....my plumbing is not in at this point......so can I start with either end down ????

Thanks for your advice......

Ignore open area & copper piping......will close up space with 23/32" plywood ...upside down 3 copper pipe is actually a Hansgrohe Universal iBox ready to drop in after tub install... will be going on the right wall....

I have about 62" to work with.....



Jeff
 
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Terry

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We start at the valve end because that way you don't rip the valve out of the wall when the tub is "slowly" eased down into the hole.
We never had access to the long wall, as that was a fire wall. I can't remember the plumbing wall as much, but that may have been a shear wall with plywood.
The tub will drag against the back wall. You do need to pull it away from the wall as it hits up against the studs to allow it to drop.
 

FoakPa

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I understand for the most part....it would be that last foot or so that I would think would be the toughest.....you are still wrestling with a 60" tub at an angle & trying to wiggle the other end so that the opposite end drops down in....& without getting your squeezed or amputated off.....maybe the weight of the tub pulls it down .....in order to get it to drop onto the 2 x 4 that is on the floor....your thoughts ????
 
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