Cast Iron Toilet Flange, low and broken

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Michael Townsend, Feb 2, 2015.

  1. Michael Townsend

    Michael Townsend Michael

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2015
    Location:
    Ohio
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    I have two (2) Half Baths that I'm remodeling and they both have Cast Iron Toilet Flanges set in a concrete floor. Plan is to install 6x6 ceramic tile with a 1/4" thick "Hardi Backer Board" for the new flooring. Currently the Cast Iron Toilet Flanges are set about 1/8" to 1/4" below the concrete floor. After installing the tile, the Cast Iron Toilet Flanges will be much lower at about 5/8" to 3/4" below the finished Ceramic Tile Flooring. Which raises my concern about installing the Toilet and getting a good seal between the Toilet and the Cast Iron Toilet Flange.

    As you will see in the following pictures #1 Flange is not too bad. I'm thinking I can get away with a double wax ring and some long closet bolts.

    The #2 Flange was not set in the concrete quit right and you can see that the Plumber had to get creative and modify the flange to "lead in" a couple closet bolts due to the misplacement of the slots. Both bolts cleaned up OK and they seem to be pretty tight in the lead. Besides the Flange being turned the wrong way it is also out of level by almost 3/4" from front to back. Also I'm guessing that while the Plumber was being creative with the lead-in of the Closet Bolts he cracked about 3" of the Flange off on the right side which concerns me about how to seal the wax ring in this location. Can I take some "Vinyl Concrete Patch" and repair this area and let the wax ring seal against the patch since the hub of the seal is intact to the top of the rim ? Then extend the existing closet bolts with a thick Brass nut and a new section of a brass closet bolt to gain the height I require? Finish up with a double wax ring?

    I cant use an Oatey PVC Flange w/compression gasket that fits the ID of the 4" Closet Bend cause the flanges are set too deep on the concrete and the compression gasket wont reach the 4" Closet Bend. See diagram.

    Any and all advice is much appreciated.
     
  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    He did NOT break the flange while "leading in the bolt". It was either already broken, or he broke it, and instead of replacing it he "cobbled" it to attach the bolt. I would remove them and install new flanges at the correct height, but since they were "poured in the concrete" it would take some extra effort to remove them.
     
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  4. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    IL
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  5. Michael Townsend

    Michael Townsend Michael

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2015
    Location:
    Ohio
    I agree hj, it would take some effort to remove them since they are cast into the concrete. Do you think a new Cast Iron Flange would get me to the height of the finished Ceramic Tile flooring without the addition of a small section of Cast Iron Pipe? I would prefer to use all Cast Iron and repair it to remain a 4" system throughout to allow for a good unrestricted flow.

    Reach4, I like the idea of the SiouxChief "Push Tite Flange Extension" except that it creates a small section 3" ID on the otherwise 4" ID system. Also I'm thinking that the Closet Bend may not provide a 2" section that is straight enough for the gasket to properly seal. I'll ask SiouxChief about the requirements for a proper seal of the gasket. Should I be concerned with that decrease in ID from 4" to 3" creating a point where it may clog up? Or is that such a small section that it would not restrict any flow of waste?

    Thanks to both hj and Reach4 for your quick reply and advice. I greatly appreciate it
     
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    The output of the toilet is probably less than 2.5 inches.
     
  7. Michael Townsend

    Michael Townsend Michael

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2015
    Location:
    Ohio
    If I decided put forth the effort and replace the Cast Iron Closet Flange, what size would I order? Im thinking its a"Cast Iron Closet Flange, No-Hub, Deep, 4" X ? X?. I found one at http://www.build.com/proflo-pfcf6pmm/s646569 by ProFlo PFCF6PMM but I'm not sure how to read the part number to make sure it will work.
     
  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    I would go with a 4" x 4" long flange from your appearances, ( using your below the floor dimensions). A lead/oakum joint would probably take less "chopping" than a No-Hub one. I would place a piece of 4" plastic pipe inside the flange up to the top of the flange so the wax ring has a good surface to seal to. Use silicone to fill between the cast iron and plastic.
     
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