Dusty Fellow
New Member
Just curious which would be considered preferred practice for 2” CI DWV rough-in for lavs: the tapped 1.5” santee or plain no-hub?
Pros and cons either way?
Pros and cons either way?
Cast iron lav rough-in - tapped santee or not?
- Thread starter Dusty Fellow
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You're going to be stubbing out with the 1-1/2" pipe nipple right?
P-trap attaches with a slip joint nut.
P-trap attaches with a slip joint nut.
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Dusty Fellow
New Member
That’s the common way I’m familiar with, but downside seems to be that the nipple, whether galv or brass, tends to be a point of corrosion years down the road. Threads offer more flexibility for testing when it’s new though.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
usually put a plastic santee on if its a single family home and no fire rating issue then run plastic vents as well. but if you want all cast put a tapped santee
Paulypfunk
In the Trades
You could also offset the vertical cast iron a bit and then bring an 1 1/2” trap arm over, then 90’ out to present for the p trap. Sometimes this gives you options if you are worried that the tapped tee is going to stick out too far.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
In a normal situation its a tapped santee, Dusty. A no hub santee not so clean as you'll have a no hub band under sink. if your putting a dirty arm to the side like pauly says that may put you in the wall a tad more , the take off is pretty close tapped tee vs proper sweep durham 90. a high box flange can dress it up if needed
PlumbNuts
SC Licensed Plumbing Contractor
It would be dependant upon the location of the sanitary tee; is it direclty behind the sink outlet or is is it further away to either side as to go around a window?
Too many variables in your generic question, would need more details for proper answer.
Dusty Fellow
New Member
This is just super standard directly behind sink outlet. I guess I’ve dealt with a few too many corroded nipples recently in old cast and galv and was wondering if there was a better [metal] solution that would last longer. Realistically it only ends up being an issue when you’re remodeling 10-20 years down the road, in which case one could easily replace the NH tee if there was an issue.
Just overthinking it, don’t mind me.
Brass nipples don't rust. Tightening a nipple too tight into a cast iron santee can crack that.
You could put a brass nipple into that santee.
Also, a schedule 80 PVC nipple will have no corrosion problems
If screwing into a 1-1/2 inch santee, here is another option:
You could put a brass nipple into that santee.
If screwing into a 1-1/2 inch santee, here is another option:
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I'd go with tapped santee Reach 4 has 3 good options the sch 80 nipple might not allow a tubular trap to slip inside not sure .
Paulypfunk
In the Trades
Brass nipple should serve you well. I’m not a fan of copper drain piping or trap arms any more. Not very chemical resistant.
My standard rough in, when clearance was an issue, was to put the drain pipe to the side, bring a horizontal trap arm over to the sink, then 90’ out with a regular sweep 90’ fitting and use an insert trap adapter that glues into the hub of the 90. That usually saved me from having to use a big box flange.
My standard rough in, when clearance was an issue, was to put the drain pipe to the side, bring a horizontal trap arm over to the sink, then 90’ out with a regular sweep 90’ fitting and use an insert trap adapter that glues into the hub of the 90. That usually saved me from having to use a big box flange.
Whoa... good point.. list says 1.5 inch schedule 80 ID is 1.500 inch.
How about using a 1-1/4 trap for the lavatory into the schedule 80 nipple, and using a 1-1/2 in. Sink Drain Pipe Plastic Slip-Joint Nut with Rubber Reducing Washers.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
The other fitting You show we call a desanco (brand) is preferred connection I've been told putting a tubular trap on a standard nipple isn't correct , and many new con jobs require us to use that trap adapter. But on residential and out in real world of repair nothing more than a nipple coming out the wall.
Its really clean having an all cast iron waste system but on most single fam homes its mainly for noise and adapting to plastic somewhere close to sink the norm
Dusty Fellow
New Member
What would the reasoning be that tubular to nipple is incorrect?
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I think the desanco fitting is a bit more water tite and just a job spec requirement. theve been pretty common on jobs Ive been on that called for tubular traps
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