Cast Iron for noise suppression

[Mac D]

I'm doing new construction and I'm interested in using cast iron for a vertical section of pipe through occupied space for noise suppression. My plumber doesn't want to do it because he's concerned that the transition from cast iron to PVC wouldn't be reliable. I know this is a common practice. Are there any educational materials I can point him to that would help him employ the technique effectively and feel comfortable with the results?

 

[Terry]

You can't transition between no-hub and PVC with no-hub couplings. They do make couplings that do though, no-hub for one side and plastic for the other. Mission and others make them and any supplier will have them. How long has this guy been plumbing? Maybe he needs our forum to find these things out.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

Because the CI is quite heavy, he would also want to install some hangers on the CI. A bit extra work and money, but necessary. No hub CI is more common these days than the stuff with a hub. Not that many guys want to deal with lead and oakum joints...but, no-hub stuff is pretty easy, you only need a torque wrench to properly tighten the clamps. Cutting it takes a bit more work, but it's not a big deal breaker.

 

[wwhitney]

You can't transition between no-hub and PVC with no-hub couplings.

A question on this: in the 1-1/2" size, no-hub cast iron and schedule 40 plastic have the same outer diameter (1.90"), and in the 2" size they are very very close (2.35" versus 2.375"). So is a standard no-hub coupling adequate in these sizes?

Thanks, Wayne

 

[hj]

You would be surprised how many plumbers DO use No-Hub couplings, for all sizes, to make the transition.

 

[Reach4]

A question on this: in the 1-1/2" size, no-hub cast iron and schedule 40 plastic have the same outer diameter (1.90"), and in the 2" size they are very very close (2.35" versus 2.375"). So is a standard no-hub coupling adequate in these sizes?

This was a discussion that included the option of cheaper no-hub corrugated connectors vs the shielded. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/coupling-types-no-hub-shielded-flexible.76209/

 

[Sylvan]

Get a plumber who knows that going from plastic it CI is very easy and reliable

When a client wants CHEAP installations I will use CI for all drainage and PVC for venting

IF PVC is not supported properly it can get bellies and cause more stoppages

HERE show your "plumber" this picture

 

[Sylvan]

Because the CI is quite heavy, he would also want to install some hangers on the CI. A bit extra work and money, but necessary. No hub CI is more common these days than the stuff with a hub. Not that many guys want to deal with lead and oakum joints...but, no-hub stuff is pretty easy, you only need a torque wrench to properly tighten the clamps. Cutting it takes a bit more work, but it's not a big deal breaker.

I still caulk when necessary and they do make push gaskets that fit into hubs service weight and XHCI

I happen to like extra heavy cast for under ground work so in a 100+ years let the next plumber worry which materials he /she will use