Cast iron flange too low — new floor/toilet install

Users who are viewing this thread

Santa Rosa

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Mexico
Hi all,

First off, I want to assure you that I have read dozens of posts on this forum about this exact subject, so I promise I'm not just starting a new thread willy nilly—or maybe I am, but if that's the case, it's because I think I may have read too many opinions at this point, and I'm starting to second-guess everything.

IMG_2778.jpg IMG_2783.jpg

So, I just pulled out the bathroom floor (peel & stick vinyl over old mastic over a patchwork of luan and plywood) in house built in 1950, and it's time for me to get started on putting in new underlayment and ultimately tiling. The cast iron flange appears to be in good condition despite what it might look like in these photos—that's mostly grime. It's not cracked or bent, and since there's only minimal water damage to the surrounding subfloor for a 70-year-old house, I'm guessing it's been doing a fine job. If possible, I'd rather leave well enough alone and not remove it.

The bottom edge of the flange currently sits about 1/2" above the subfloor (top edge is about 3/4" from the subfloor), which obviously isn't going to work as-is.

My plan is to use 5/8" plywood + 1/4" wonderboard + 3/16" ceramic tile, which, accounting for the thinset, will put the finished floor at about 1-1/8" above the subloor. That's going to be a height difference of 3/8" from the top of the flange (1-1/8" - 3/4" = 3/8").

From reading various posts here, it appears my options are:
1. Use double wax rings. (If I go this route, do I use the extra thick ones? With or without a horn?)
2. Use several stacking rings (which kind?) layered with gaskets (?) to bring the flange level with the floor, then use a single wax ring as usual.
3. Use one of these Push N Repair-type products.

Am I missing an option? What's my best route here? Any opinions on how best to proceed would be much appreciated. I'm happy to provide additional details if that's helpful.

Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I normally throw down a regular wax and then drop a horn wax over that. Then the bowl drops down over it.
Before I set any wax, I set the bowl down and see if it needs any shimming at the back. If no shims are needed, I pull the bowl and stack the wax rings.
If it needs shimming, I do that first, then pull the bowl and stack the rings. You can sometimes use the thick ring too.
 

Santa Rosa

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Mexico
Thanks, Terry! You've confirmed what I suspected—that I've been overthinking this. I'll have shims and multiple wax rings at the ready, and hope for the best.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks