Cast flange help

[dieselcj7]

Ok so I move in to the new house , leak at toilet and it wobbles. I think simple ,lift it to do wax and find rotted flange. Ive exhaust all avail options from home depot with no help. Then realized after installing the hydroseat. that the flange is crooked. And it rock back/forth worse now. So what are my best options? the flange also connects about 5" down below the floor? So the vids I watch of break of the flange and put in the plastic compression dont seem like its and option. Im gonna try and attach pics. I know I have to start by making the flange flush,? Keep thinking can I just cut it and make a pvc flange/bend

 

[dieselcj7]

here are a few pics i have with me now.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[dieselcj7]

and this is the small section of drain/bend. sorry for the blurry pic

 

[Reach4]

You can use a flange repair device to hold the closet bolts, such
as Superior 21015. That would let you securely hold the toilet down, with the force handled by the bolts into the floor. The question is whether that bit of extra thickness would work.

 

[dieselcj7]

i did buy something like that and it seems there is enough of the flange left to stop it from sitting flush, and flange would remain unlevel, which I'm believing is my cause. I also looked at ordering a compression flange but its to deep below the floor surface I believe.

 

[Reach4]

I also looked at ordering a compression flange but its to deep below the floor surface I believe.

Would that be 4 inch ID pipe that you would be trying to attach to?

 

[dieselcj7]

im gonna say yes. When I measured the flange opening its just over 5", so Im assuming it'd be a 4" pipe after the flange.

 

[Reach4]

I don't know if this could fit your situation.

http://www.siouxchief.com/docs/defa...n---pushtite---instruction-sheet.pdf?sfvrsn=6

That tells how to extend a Push-Tite Gasketed Closet Flange (887-GPM) to go deeper.
4 inch ID hole.

While the old flange was removed, maybe you could put some 3/4 or bigger plywood under the the sub floor, and use longer screws to bite into that.

 

[dieselcj7]

that could work.? I just wanna do it once. And be sure what Im doing is correct prior to chisling off the old flange. And dont know if floor work will be required to level the mounting so your not porch rocking while using the bowl

 

[dieselcj7]

is it a possibility to cut at the horizontal and just make a pvc elbow and mate it with a rubber coupler?

 

[Reach4]

is it a possibility to cut at the horizontal and just make a pvc elbow and mate it with a rubber coupler?

post a wider picture showing the area that you would want to cut, the area where you think the coupling would grab the remaining pipe, and the place the elbow would go.

 

[dieselcj7]

the blurry one is all I have now. can take a better on later. Ive looked at the cast compression aswell but think my pipe is to deep to grab

 

[dieselcj7]

the other issue is home depot and lowes has shit!!

 

[dieselcj7]

here are 2 pics of the pipe and what I have after the hydroseat is on, the washer was bending when i had it mounted (i know too tight right)and it rocked pretty good front to back. How much is too much to shim? Im wondering if shimming and fire the toilet to see if it leaks. Ive got 2 waxes seems to be oozing from the hydro seat so maybe itll seal but the rocker

 

[Reach4]

here are 2 pics of the pipe and what I have after the hydroseat is on, the washer was bending when i had it mounted (i know too tight right)and it rocked pretty good front to back. How much is too much to shim?

Whatever it takes, I would think. I think you think the toilet is rocking on the hydroseal, rather than the floor flexing. In your situation, I would use a level on the rim of the toilet, and shim accordingly. If no part of the toilet base touches the floor when the toilet is level, so be it. You will want to use composite door and window shims, cut as needed.

Do the screws bite into the wood well, or do any keep turning when you tighten? You could replace one or more with thru-bolts, fender washers, and nuts.

 

[dieselcj7]

i think the floors been done in the past but around the pipes been wet,there wasnt even wax that I had to clean up, but there was only one. i think 2 screws bit and 2 wanted to pull the floor. so i just snugged, i was gonna use the 4 inner screws and go into the cast. but yes it deff feels like it teeters on the flange, like its up too high.. the rubber should seal the bowl I imagine.. ill sit it back on and grab a pic, get some shims tomorrow. i think there was a decent gap between floor and bowl. thanks for all the help!

 

[Reach4]

Maybe pull the screws from the two mushy areas. Screw and glue a 2x4 or thick plywood under the mushy part. Put int new long screws into the new wood. Plywood is much more split-resistant.

 

[dieselcj7]

yeah the screws they gave were 1" or so. iwas gonna do 3" to reach the subfloor and drill/install the inner 4 screws. it looks like the bottom of the bowls mount holes are touching the hydro seat so thats gotta be ok. just gonna try shims on the 1/4 gap . Ill let you know how it works out. thanks again man.