Can't get Delta tub spout in proper orientation AND against wall

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Pat Furrie

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We're trying to finish a bathroom remodel, and now is the time to install the tub spout. The fitting in the wall is threaded, and the spout is a front-threaded type, part of the Delta "Porter" (144984-BN-A) set.

Have tried a 5.5" galvanized 1/2" nipple... too long, with the spout about 1/4" away from the wall tile. A 5" nipple is too short; the nipple can't reach the threads inside the spout.

Out of desperation, I got two shorter nipples and a coupling. The length ended up at ~5.25 "... should be perfect, I thought.

When I screw on the spout, it stops turning when it reaches the wall, but the spout is about 270 degrees short of facing down.

I'm thinking I'm doing this wrong. I can't get three conditions to converge: have the spout reach the wall, have the spout oriented correctly (down), and have the pipe be tight enough that it won't leak.

There has *got* to be a better way.
 

Reach4

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  1. There are easier to use spouts. Some have more of range of acceptable nipple length. Some don't use the threads on the outside of the wall, and instead use a set screw to position the spout.
  2. You should not add galvanized nipples. Use brass despite the higher cost.
  3. You can add more PTFE tape to make something require fewer turns to tighten.
  4. You can use a die on a nipple to let it screw in more.
 

Pat Furrie

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  1. There are easier to use spouts. Some have more of range of acceptable nipple length. Some don't use the threads on the outside of the wall, and instead use a set screw to position the spout.
  2. You should not add galvanized nipples. Use brass despite the higher cost.
  3. You can add more PTFE tape to make something require fewer turns to tighten.
  4. You can use a die on a nipple to let it screw in more.
Thanks. Out of those, given what I've shared, what is the best solution... and why?

I can't (easily) change out the threaded in-wall connection; whatever type of pipe I use must be able to thread into that.

So how *does* someone use one of these spouts with a threaded nipple and make all the parts come together? They sell the darned things, which suggests there is method or "trick" to doing so. I could use a die on the nipple, but that is less than straight-forward (as I see it). Adding more tape could help tighten it sooner, but doesn't necessarily help synchronize getting the spout to be in the "down" position at the same time the spout hits the wall.
 
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Reach4

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I have the Delta Faucet RP17454 Tub Spout Pull-Down Diverter, Chrome
(RP17453 is same but quality plastic). There are others that are fancier that fit onto the same adapter.

Get a brass nipple that is the right length to put the nipple extending 5/8" to 1-5/8" from wall surface. Your existing galvanized nipple can be used to provide data about how long of a nipple extends how far. Discard the galvanized nipple after taking measurements and get the brass. Then thread on the included adapter. Then screw the spout onto the adapter.

Pull down to divert. It dribbles much much less than most diverter spouts, but you need to explain the shower activation to guests (pull down). There are other alternatives in the family with a pull-up knob. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....d-cant-figure-out-how-to-turn-on-shower.7595/ is a long-lived thread on the topic. You may enjoy it.

It will fit on a threaded pipe sticking out from 5/8" to 1-5/8" from wall surface. Really nice IMO.

index.php


delta-rp5834-2.jpg


Delta RP5834 replacement spout. This one is a "pull-up" diverter spout.
 
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Jadnashua

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While there is a standard on how to cut pipe threads, some of the stuff you buy, especially at a big box store, may have been made with dull or improper dies, or it may or may not have been cut long enough. As a result, it can take more or less turns to actually get things tight.

The suggestion on potentially adding more PTFE tape to the male end can make the thing tighten and seal with less rotations, but may not be enough of an adjustment, you won't know until you try.

Usually, with the fitting in the wall and in the spout, you have a bit more flexibility since you often can get a turn or more out of the nipple after it is tight enough to seal. So, you could try this...once you've decided what is close, put the tape on both ends of the nipple, start it into the tub spout, and then tighten both of them up at the same time. If you've inserted the nipple into the wall and got it tight before you tried to install the spout, you won't have that flexibility of an extra turn on either/both ends to get it where you want it.

Easier is to probably use a different spout attachment method, but that involves buying a new one.

If you think this is a pain...some body sprays and other special fixtures require the end of the pipe to be within as little as 1/32" for it to tighten up at the right point. Personally, I call that bad design.

As an alternative, you could buy two brass fittings and attach them to a piece of copper pipe any length you want. That's probably easier than getting a custom nipple threaded.
 
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