Can this toilet be moved?

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MTy

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Can this toilet be realistically moved without access to the bathroom on the other side of the wall (not a possibility)? I need to move it about 8 to 10 inches "above" where it is. Or about two feet "down" depending on what is possible.

The branch coming from the wall from the right has one branch that goes to the vent and the other the toilet in the adjoining bathroom. Because of that I don't think I can simply cut the stack and cut out the fittings until I get back to straight pipe.

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Terry

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The toilet flange with the rag stuffed in it, in the photo, which direction do you want to move it?
Left, up, down, I assume not to the right.
 

MTy

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Ideally about 8-10 inches up, although even an two or three inches up would make a big difference for my current plans.

FWIW The rest of the subfloor in this bathroom is coming up as well. The waste pipe runs under my feet and then drops down into a first story wall.
 

Terry

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8" up means that wall is moving, and the wye that is there gets removed and a new wye is located facing the other direction.
I'm guessing more plywood comes up and the pipe between the wye and the double wye can be drilled out with a RamBit or Reed Reamer

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MTy

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Thank you Terry, that makes sense. I didn't know such a tool existed. The only issue I see with that plan is that the floor joist already has a pretty good sized hole in it. If I "flip" the wye Then I'd have to make the hole even bigger. I guess one option is to put the wye further done and replace the current wye with a piece of straight pipe. I could put the toilet on the left side of the joist.

Maybe to much space behind the toilet? I've got a toto drake.
 

Jeff H Young

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Basically moving it one joist bay to left and flopping wye the other way but that's more than 8 or 10 inches. if you move the wye even further down you may be able to put a 45 in which will tuck it in close to the run getting you closer to the 10 inches you want
 

Tuttles Revenge

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If you're moving the new location to the other side of the trunk line, then you're going to be drilling a new hole in that joist no matter what. You can cut the pipe/wye out, do what needs to be done to repair the joist, then drill your new hole on the other side. Those are already massive holes likely way way oversized.. Looks like someone cut them with a chainsaw.

The tool you will want to invest in to remove the pipe from the fitting is this Reed Reamer. It will leave the fitting socket good as new.

reed-reamer-01.jpg
 
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Jeff H Young

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If you're moving the new location to the other side of the trunk line, then you're going to be drilling a new hole in that joist no matter what. You can cut the pipe/wye out, do what needs to be done to repair the joist, then drill your new hole on the other side. Those are already massive holes likely way way oversized.. Looks like someone cut them with a chainsaw.

The tool you will want to invest in to remove the pipe from the fitting is this Reed Reamer. It will leave the fitting socket good as new.

that's a real nice tool there ! mine is all out of sheet metal stamped other than the shaft.
Op said he could move toilet into the next bay on the left eliminating further cutting of joist I believe.

reed-reamer-03.jpg
 
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MTy

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Yeah that joist is hacked pretty bad. The sad part is there are fur-downs just below the plumber could have easily used. But that's what I get for trying to renovate a 70s tract house.

I have a couple bathroom fixture locations depending on what I can do with the toilet. Moving 8-10 inches would actually put it right on top of where the main waste run is. Is there a fitting that would allow me to put it right on top in such tight quarters?

Barring that the other option is to leave the toilet where it is but I really need to take care of that joist, so either way I will likely be separating and reaming out the fitting and then tying in on the other side of that joist.

Last option is to run the toilet about 2 feet down.

Do I run into any issues with distance from the vent on the right hand wall with any of those options?

Thankfully based on what I am seeing running the new supplies and rest of the DWV should be easier.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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I always start with a design and work my way from what I have to what the design calls for. Maybe post a sketch with the layout of what you want and where the plumbing is in relation to get a better understanding of what is possible. Maybe come up with a couple alternate locations for the toilet.
 
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