I replace an iron filter, that failed due to low backwash rate, with a Birm filter with AIO3. Does it make sense to repurpose the old 1.5 cuft 7000sxt filter as a carbon prefilter? I was thinking a Zeolite bed with GAC and KDF cubes. MY thinking for carbon at all was to protect the Birm after well sanitizing which I do once or twice a year. My raw water tests to only 0.5 ppm ferrous iron with a PH of 6.8 with a light sulfur odor and IRB as noted by slime in the toilet tanks. I know I should have had a water test done but I haven't.
Can I repurpose an old Mang-ox filter to a GAC backwash filter
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I would be concerned that the 7000 might add enough backpressure to prevent the new BIRM AIO3 system from getting enough backwash. Zeolite requires an even higher backwashing rate than BIRM.
So were you thinking of mixing zeolite and GAC? I didn't know what a "KDF cube" was. My first thought it was maybe like "Media Guard" which goes in line with the distributor tube to give the high backwash flow that KDF media needs. But these cubes are buoyant??? Or maybe not buoyant, but need less backwash?
My iron+H2S filter uses Centaur Carbon, but its regen runs a bleach solution thru the media. Then the bleach gets rinsed out. Your 7000 does not have the parts needed to draw a solution in. I am just passing on thoughts, and I don't have a prescription for you.
My sanitizing technique is more involved, but I think it should last longer. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ Let us know if you try it.
So were you thinking of mixing zeolite and GAC? I didn't know what a "KDF cube" was. My first thought it was maybe like "Media Guard" which goes in line with the distributor tube to give the high backwash flow that KDF media needs. But these cubes are buoyant??? Or maybe not buoyant, but need less backwash?
My iron+H2S filter uses Centaur Carbon, but its regen runs a bleach solution thru the media. Then the bleach gets rinsed out. Your 7000 does not have the parts needed to draw a solution in. I am just passing on thoughts, and I don't have a prescription for you.
My sanitizing technique is more involved, but I think it should last longer. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ Let us know if you try it.
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The 7000 would be replacing a whirlpool WHELJ1 which I assume is more restrictive than the 7000?
I was reading another post that recommended this to to lessen the amount of carbon needed and also mentioned to KDF cubes to help remove bacteria
The valve in my 7000 is a softener valve, which may have contributed to its failure. I actually tried converting it to an AIO to aid backwashing, a lot of gunk came out but still poor operation. That said I was trying to keep bleach out if the Brim lol
Maybe I should remove the Whirlpool filter, forget about the 7000 and move my big blue 10" to be a prefilter?
A pre-filter could reduce the backwash on the stuff downstream. So if you put a filter before your backwashing filters, they should be very course. I have my iron+H2S in line right after the pressure tank. It would probably be better for me to have a wye filter before that, but I think if a pebble comes in, it could just get added to the gravel.
I suggest you make a diagram, or list, of what order things will go in your various scenarios.
You introduced a new term: " Whirlpool filter".
I suggest you make a diagram, or list, of what order things will go in your various scenarios.
You introduced a new term: " Whirlpool filter".
ya, sorry about that, incomplete information.
Currently
Whirlpool carbon backwashing whole house filter
Birm AIO3 (Replaced Mang-ox 7000 Filter)
Big Blue 10"
4 litter Filtersorb anti scale media
Ionics IQ softener plumbed to mix hard and soft water to take hardness from 8 to 4 grains (We hate totally soft water)
Considering
Big Blue 10" or rebedded 7000 backwashing filter
Birm AIO3
Filtersorb
Ionics IQ with mix valve
After doing a little more research . . .
Spin down filter
Brim AIO3
Filtersorb
Big Blue 10" or rebedded 7000 backwashing filter (Carbon)
Ionics IQ with mixing valve
But I would like to hear what far more knowledgeable people think with any or all variations of current equipment
Thanks
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What do you consider very course? 40 micron, 100 micron, 200 micron or more?
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200 or 149microns. 100 mesh is about 149 microns, and is a common size for wye filters. The backwashing filter should be able to easily backwash out any sediment of that size. https://www.directmaterial.com/measuring-strainer-screen-microns-vs-mesh
The new Birn AIO3 is installed and so far (less than 48 hours) the results are mixed. I have Hach iron and hardness testers and a TDS meter and when testing the treated water I find the hardness has gone from 8 grains to 2 grains and the iron has gone from 0.5 to 0.0 ppm I didn't think Birm would affect hardness. The TDS has remained the same around 165. Total alkalinity has gone from 240 to off the chart (over 360) and pH has gone from 7.6 to over 9, using test strips. Now I expected number to go a little crazy for a few days with a new system but this morning I am getting a sewage odor and taste. I did change up the equipment order a bit it is now Spin down filter, Birm AIO3 filter, Big Blue (no carbon ), Filtersorb. I took the softner off line after testing the hardness. I will be installing a 3" pvc air trap as suggested by Dittohead
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