Can I extend DWV pipe with coupler or reducer to bring it closer to finished floor?

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Dabronx02

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Actually. I think I have the exact fitting you're looking at on my desk now. The ridges you feel on the inside are threads which makes this an inside 4" pipe cleanout body for a 3" threaded plug. Does it measure 2" to the bottom from the top?

View attachment 79829

I also thought this might be a fitting, but don't fittings typically have a hub or bell to them? The outside of this pipe is smooth. I also thought the four circles were a clue. The rectorseal seems like a good lead, but the "obstruction" doesn't really look like it was ever threaded. BTW, it case it aids in this mystery, perhaps I should have mentioned there is a toilet on the exact opposite side of the wall. Does this indicate that it was/is a fitting since I presume they are sharing the same waste pipe?

Lastly, here's a photo of the back of the old flange. It definitely was a hub flange, which I think describes the fact it fit over the mystery pipe.
 

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Dabronx02

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As for the good news (I think), I finally got the Sioux Chief 886-GA flange today. And, it appears I can push it past the "obstruction" to where I believe it is creating a seal in the pipe. The tailpipe length also seems adequate enough for me to fill the surrounding area with non-shrink grout up to the finished floor and then bolt the flange atop of it. Below is a photo of just the seal inside my pipe.

Do you guys think what I just described should suffice? I assume since it's a seal, there won't be anything to clue. Most importantly, do you think it will hold up against leaks and odors?

You guys have been incredibly awesome. Appreciate the timely responses and education.
 

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Reach4

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s for the good news (I think), I finally got the Sioux Chief 886-GA flange today. And, it appears I can push it past the "obstruction" to where I believe it is creating a seal in the pipe. The tailpipe length also seems adequate enough for me to fill the surrounding area with non-shrink grout up to the finished floor and then bolt the flange atop of it. Below is a photo of just the seal inside my pipe.

Do you guys think what I just described should suffice? I assume since it's a seal, there won't be anything to clue. Most importantly, do you think it will hold up against leaks and odors?
If you pull that out, I would lube the flaps with silicone grease (not silicone adhesive) such as Molykote 111. That is not a common thing to do, but I suspect it will help the seal to flow better, plus fill any micro-void.

Man, that will be really nice. I am sure this has been really stressful.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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If it creates a tight seal and whatever fitting that is coming up isn't creating an obstruction, then it looks like you dodged the bullet of removing more concrete and bringing up a proper closet bend fitting.

I'm still 99.99% certain that is a TomKap or similar cleanout fitting. A 4" hub fits pretty tight on the one I have here and it is meant to glue into 4" pipe. That hub flange was just glued over the top as far as they could.

I've had a couple similar flange replacements as yours. I cleaned the concrete really well with a vacuum, compressed air and water and a brush to remove all debris. We used high strength concrete and inserted concrete anchor bolts into the flange that we set into the concrete leaving a couple holes that we could drill later if needed. Vibrated the concrete to stick better to the bolts and waited for the cure time. Might even see if you can get some decent anchors into the existing concrete to line up with holes in your new flange to ensure its rock solid so you don't have to revisit this.
 

Dabronx02

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Thank you all for the feedback. I poured the cement around the pipe today. I'll pickup the silicon grease tomorrow. BTW, this Sioux Chief flange has 8 holes for screws...seems excessive. You guys think I need all 8 screws? Just seems like a lot of hammer drilling into the new cement I poured.
 
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Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

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