Cabling for subpanel

Users who are viewing this thread

borisf

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Seattle, Washington
I'm going to finish my basement over the next few months and need to add a subpanel as the main 40-slot box is almost full. I'm going to add a 125A 12-slot/24-circuit box directly underneath the main one and connect them with 2-2-2-4 copper. Since the subpanel will be directly beneath the main, my plan is to just use the center knockouts connected by a 2 inch-sized metal conduit nipple with locknuts in each box.

Question: do need I need to clamp the actual conductors as they enter each panel as I would with Romex?

Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    96.5 KB · Views: 257
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    40.1 KB · Views: 277

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,861
Reaction score
4,429
Points
113
Location
IL
No.

I think I would buy THHN wire by the foot, unless I had wire already.
 

borisf

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Seattle, Washington
Thanks for letting me know re: clamping.

They actually had the 2-2-2-4 copper at HD at just over $5/ft. It was cheaper and I figured I could always split out the conductors from the main sheath and so that's my plan.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Sometimes, the wires in a sheath are not individually labeled, which isn't to code, I think, but not positive.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Sometimes, the wires in a sheath are not individually labeled, which isn't to code, I think, but not positive.
 

borisf

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Seattle, Washington
The insulation on the individual conductors was color coded inside the sheath -- so I'm good there. Unfortunately, I wasn't paying close enough attention and while the conductors were 2ga (stranded copper), the ground was an 8ga or 10ga. Certainly not 4ga as I expected... Oh, well. One more trip to HD and now the job is done (see attached). Thanks all.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    52.6 KB · Views: 255

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
It's not the color coding...it's that the wires themselves are marked with the type and gauge. On a cable, that's on the plastic sheath, and usually not on the individual wires.
 

borisf

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Seattle, Washington
Yup, the cables are colored but aren't marked individually. I passed inspection this morning, though. The inspector didn't care that they weren't labeled, just that they were large enough for the amperage. So, as far as the city of Seattle is concerned, all is good.
 

Speedy Petey

Licensed Electrical Contractor
Messages
1,108
Reaction score
9
Points
38
Location
NY State, USA
The insulation on the individual conductors was color coded inside the sheath -- so I'm good there. Unfortunately, I wasn't paying close enough attention and while the conductors were 2ga (stranded copper), the ground was an 8ga or 10ga. Certainly not 4ga as I expected... Oh, well. One more trip to HD and now the job is done (see attached). Thanks all.
You did NOT need to get a larger ground. #8cu is an appropriate sized grounding conductor for a 100A feeder.

Personally I'd have used just the cable with two SER cable connectors in the panels (the nipple was overkill) and placed the new panel next to the existing one.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Keep in mind that ground is a redundant safety path to help ensure that the breakers or fuses will trip...it should NEVER see current on it otherwise, and if it does, it won't be there for long. That's why it can be smaller gauge than the normal, current carrying leads.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks