cable to new oven

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Wade Campbell

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I'm installing a new oven that requires 240v 30A. The problem is how best to get the electrical cable from it to the panel.

The panel is in the garage, and the oven is on a wall that is shared by the garage (i.e., I could punch a hole thru the wall from the oven into the garage). (Going up into the attic is not an option since the attic has 2' of blown in insulation, and, while it is possible, I refuse to go that route.) So, I plan to punch that hole in the wall, string the cable up to the garage ceiling, over to the wall the panel is on, down and into the panel.

My question is what is the best conduit to use to a) be easiest for me (NOT an electrician!), and b) meets code. I initially thought MC cable would be easiest, but thought I'd ask.
 

wwhitney

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A picture or two might help:

If you want to run the wiring concealed, and don't want to deal with the attic, you could cut out a horizontal strip of drywall around 2-3 walls of the garage, drill the framing, and install a cable wire method. E.g. 10/2 or 10/3 (depending on whether the oven needs a neutral) NM cable. But then you'll have to patch the drywall.

If you want to run it exposed, it's a judgement call on whether it is "exposed to damage" and to what extent the various wiring methods are up to the level of exposure. Almost all of them have language in the NEC prohibiting their use when exposed to damage, yet in practice NM is considered more vulnerable than MC which is more vulnerable than EMT, etc.

So I'd suggest EMT as an appropriate choice for exposed work. The run would need to have at most 360 degrees of elbows in it or else you'd need to install an intermediate box/pull point. Main tools you would need are a hacksaw/reciprocating saw/other means to cut the pipe squarely, and the tool for deburring the cut ends, e.g. Klein 85191.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Wade Campbell

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I think I'll use 3/4" or 1" EMT. A couple more questions to be sure it comes close to professional std...
a) the oven has an MC cable coming off of it -- I could put a 4x4 box on the garage side and bring the MC thru the wall and thru a punch hole on the rear of that box to form the starting point for the EMT run -- is this ok??
b) the EMT run will go up to the garage ceiling and around to the top of the garage wall where the panel is. The drywall has been removed from the top of the panel to the ceiling, so I thought I'd end the EMT run at the ceiling directly above the panel, transition to NM to go down into the panel. Sound ok??
 

wwhitney

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1/2" EMT is allowed to carry up to 5 #10 THWN-2 conductors, so 3/4" is plenty and 1" would be more trouble/expense than is worth it.

a) It would be far more common for the box to be on the kitchen side of the wall. Someone installing/removing the oven wouldn't expect to have to go into the garage to disconnect it, plus you need the slack to pull the oven in and out of the cabinet cavity without disconnecting it. So while I guess it is OK, it would be weird and is not advised. The oven installation manual should identify what region within the cabinet space the oven will occupy is designated for the electrical box/connection. If a tricky bend is required in the cabinet, you could use a short length of FMC as long as you use a listed transition fitting from EMT to FMC and count any degrees of bend towards your 360 degree limit between pull points.

b) Any professional will run the EMT straight into the panel. You should be able to use a box connector, a straight piece, and a preformed ninety to come out of the wall. The drywall repair will be a little tricky around the EMT, but not too bad. Be sure to seal around the EMT penetration of the drywall in accordance with IRC R302.5.3.


Cheers, Wayne
 

addisonjerry79

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A picture or two might help:

If you want to run the wiring concealed, and don't want to deal with the attic, you could cut out a horizontal strip of drywall around 2-3 walls of the garage, drill the framing, and install a cable wire method. E.g. 10/2 or 10/3 (depending on whether the oven needs a neutral) NM cable. But then you'll have to patch the drywall.

If you want to run it exposed, it's a judgement call on whether it is "exposed to damage" and to what extent the various wiring methods are up to the level of exposure. Almost all of them have language in the NEC prohibiting their use when exposed to damage, yet in practice NM is considered more vulnerable than MC which is more vulnerable than EMT, etc.

So I'd suggest EMT as an appropriate choice for exposed work. The run would need to have at most 360 degrees of elbows in it or else you'd need to install an intermediate box/pull point. Main tools you would need are a hacksaw/reciprocating saw/other means to cut the pipe squarely, and the tool for deburring the cut ends Microwaves, e.g. Klein 85191.

Cheers, Wayne
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