Bosch Dishwasher E15 Fixed - Now no power.

[JWolfe]

Model Number: shs863wd5n/11
Brand: Bosch

We had an E15 code pop up on our Bosch dishwasher, this is a water leak error. I got under the dishwasher and cleaned up the water to return the foam float to the bottom-which would fix the E15 code. Unfortunately while removing the dishwasher cover to ease access I also removed the screws that held the fascia control panel (part #00775770) in place. The control panel fell off and a red cord fell out of the control panel. I reconnected the red cord and reinstalled everything but now the unit won't turn on. I have tried unplugging the unit for an extended time and the outlet is fully functional. Keep in mind - power was not the original issue, E15 was. I've inspected as much as I can visually and I do not see any crimped wires or broken/missing connections. My only thought is that I either damaged the specific red connection or the fascia control panel itself. Are there any tips to find the origin of my electrical problem?

Thanks!
John

 

[Fitter30]

Have a wiring diagram? Try to take a clear pic. Have you checked power behind the kick plate?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JWolfe]

Have a wiring diagram? Try to take a clear pic. Have you checked power behind the kick plate?

Diagrams below. I did check behind the kick plate - this was where I had to remove the water from originally. Nothing stands out, I'll grab a few photos of the wiring areas when I get a minute.

 

[JWolfe]

I am pretty clueless with a multi-meter but i have been fiddling around checking every connection for continuity and resistance. The only area that I am not getting any sort of activity so far is the main switch (part #00620775). I could only be so lucky that it would be as simple as replacing that part. Any suggestions on how to check for sure if that is my issue?

*Check that, I do receive a reading from the main control switch - but only WHILE the button is depressed.

Also, I found that if I lifted the float the dishwasher drain began to run - just like it would if there were the original E15. Meaning, the unit definitely still has power. So I think I am down to the main power switch (part #00620775) OR the front fascia panel (part #00775770). I'm wishing for the former as opposed to the later as a power switch is $15-30 and a front panel is more like $140. I'm just not certain how to confirm without just buying the parts and trying them...

 

[JohnCT]

Any soft touch control (as opposed to those with actual AC switches) remain powered up as long as the house has power. When off, the washer's computer is always running waiting for a momentary command from the soft touch buttons, and the small standby power supply that keeps the computer powered up is running 24/7. When the power is disconnected for any length of time (like when you're servicing the unit - I assume you threw the breaker off), the standby power supply and computer in the device power down and go cold. I mention this because if the standby power supply in the device uses electrolytic capacitors (most do), they can fall below minimum specifications when they go cold (room temperature) when they age and become weak over time and cycles.

Electrolytic capacitors become very sensitive to temperature as the Equivalent Series Resistance of them climbs with age and usage, and will often work when heated.

So, power off the breaker and get a hair dryer - warm up the electronic board(s) until they're good and warm, then throw the breaker back on. If the washer powers up, you have weak electrolytic capacitors that have to be replaced. Not uncommon and worth the shot.

John

 

[Fitter30]

Found this diagram and error codes. Try to put it in Customer service menu. Where did the red string attach?

https://imgur.com/a/Kal4LuJ

 

[JWolfe]

I tried warming everything up. No luck.

 

[JWolfe]

If I’m reading the wiring diagram correctly (a huge if) the red wire should actually go to the red circled area in the picture below. It doesn’t have a clip to hold it in, and it would leave an opening on the board… I also can’t get a continuity measurement off of that opening (circled). I tried connecting the wire there anyway, no change in result.

 

[JohnCT]

It doesn’t have a clip to hold it in, and it would leave an opening on the board…

Not sure what you mean, but if you mean what I think you mean, be aware that not every connector on a board necessarily has a plug/harness on it. There might be several base boards in this series that are populated or not populated depending on features the machine has.

Can you take a macro picture of the board you think that connector goes to?

John

 

[JWolfe]

Not sure what you mean, but if you mean what I think you mean, be aware that not every connector on a board necessarily has a plug/harness on it. There might be several base boards in this series that are populated or not populated depending on features the machine has.

Can you take a macro picture of the board you think that connector goes to?

John

Harness was probably the correct word.

 

[JWolfe]

Would it be feasible that if this component went bad, I wouldn’t get power to the user control panel? I believe this chip is the optical rinse aid sensor.

 

[JohnCT]

Harness was probably the correct word.

OK, was looking for connector or PC damage but it looks OK...

John

 

[Fitter30]

Does that look like rust on that rince aid electric pads?