Bored well & total equipment replacement

[CaverDave]

We bought a true "fixer-upper" with my step son late last year (will be his residence).
An 1800sq/ft 1945 brick "ranch" with full basement (poured foundation), plaster walls (good shape save some cracking), hardwood floors (will eventually get refinished), & all of the original doors & clear pine molding intact(aside from an occasional painting whoopsie). It had been vacant for the past 8-10 years.

Now that structural & water intrusion issues are resolved... we need some water for cleaning! (all other uses will wait until it's been re-plumbed, both supply & waste)

The well is bored & appears to have been added later (various piping not associated with this well points toward water being drawn from the creek):

• 24"(OD) cement casing that's 39' deep & appears the bottom was lined with rock (larger than grapefruit)
• Static was at 18.5'
• My rough cipher says that's 360gals?
• 100% of the old equipment (jet pump, tank, 1 1/4" *COPPER* from wellhead, & all interior supply) was rusted junk & removed
• We had a local pump the well out (gained 1' of depth from sedimentation)
• Water refilled to the 19' static after 20 hours (18gals/hour?)

The plan is to go submersible (1/2-3/4HP 10-12gpm "2 wire" 220V) on 1" poly to pitless and 1" poly thru the foundation (9.5' from casing to foundation) and to tank (20' from entry point).

My main questions:

• Is this a sound plan? Or...
• How high off bottom? Want to take advantage of the reserve vs. hanging it 10' off bottom... thinking flow inducer cut +2'-3' longer and set on bottom? (to reduce sediment pickup, but will likely run a sediment trap regardless)
• And before it's mentioned (@valveman), we're still weighing the inclusion of a CSV

If I missed any details or there are other questions, please ask!

 

[Reach4]

Sounds good. I guess the well wall will get core-drilled to pass the pipe to the pitless adapter. I don't know what is going to take the vertical load on the pitless, since you won't have the normal situation.

1/2 HP. 10 gpm.

Add a flow inducer sleeve. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/lets-talk-inducer-sleeves.78342/#post-570428

 

[Sponsor]

 

[CaverDave]

Sounds good. I guess the well wall will get core-drilled to pass the pipe to the pitless adapter. I don't know what is going to take the vertical load on the pitless, since you won't have the normal situation.

Yes, was going the drill the concrete casing, appears the nut on the backside of the pitless may work & will add a 6" nipple off the backside, "grout" the whole backside in and add second rope/SS cable to the opposite side of the case to both center & support drop pipe...

 

[Reach4]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-through-unheated-building.69681/#post-517019 talks of using a stainless steel nipple to carry the water and to be strong enough to hold up the pitless. Galvanized steel would be strong enough, but it rusts.

https://www.bakerwatersystems.com/p..._slide_adapters/campbell-brass-slide-adapters has some units that are marked "concrete". I don't know what that really means.

 

[CaverDave]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-through-unheated-building.69681/#post-517019 talks of using a stainless steel nipple to carry the water and to be strong enough to hold up the pitless. Galvanized steel would be strong enough, but it rusts.

That's what a local guy told me to do... almost verbatim (though he said 12" SS nipple)!
Unfortunately, I'm having issues sourcing anything 1" longer than 6" in brass (much less 24" or SS) around here...

 

[Valveman]

Don't make the flow inducer 2'-3' longer than the motor, or you won't be able to get the last 4'-5' of water out of the well. Just cut the shroud (inducer) flush with the bottom of the motor and set it about 12" off the bottom. With a 10 GPM, 1/2HP pump you will need at least a 44 gallon size tank, or a CSV and a 4.5 gallon size tank.

Gonna need a coupling to attach the pitless to a nipple anyway, just get two couplings and add two 6" nipples.

 

[Reach4]

Gonna need a coupling to attach the pitless to a nipple anyway, just get two couplings and add two 6" nipples.

I think he was going to use a pitless with an inside 1 inch thread.

He could use something like the Campbell BF-10XLF, which doesn't have some of those unneeded parts, but that seems more rare.

 

[CaverDave]

Don't make the flow inducer 2'-3' longer than the motor, or you won't be able to get the last 4'-5' of water out of the well. Just cut the shroud (inducer) flush with the bottom of the motor and set it about 12" off the bottom. With a 10 GPM, 1/2HP pump you will need at least a 44 gallon size tank, or a CSV and a 4.5 gallon size tank.

I realized the oversight later in the evening, that the inlet on the pump body is in the middle (versus bottom) and would add 1'-1.5' of rise off the bottom. Will adjust the shroud length and park her 1' of the bottom!

need a coupling to attach the pitless to a nipple anyway, just get two couplings and add two 6" nipples.

@valveman Guessing you mean in lew of a single length of pipe from the pitless, just use 2 + coupler?
@Reach4 is correct. I have a standard 1" pitless that *may* have enough thread to use the jam nut... otherwise will use a long nipple(s) and cement in like @VAWellDriller described in the post above (Thinking the additional length inside would space the pump & drop pipe off the inside of the casing enough that a second line to center it may not be needed?)

I think he was going to use a pitless with an inside 1 inch thread.

 

[Valveman]

Yes two 6" nipples and a coupling instead of a 12" nipple.

Doesn't have to be centered in the well. Just needs to be held a couple inches off the wall of the well.