Boosting Pressure On Artesian Well System

[Jack-of-All-Trades]

Our conventional hot water heater went bad. Always looking to save money wherever I can, I installed a Stiebel Eltron Tankless Electric Water Heater DHC-E 8/10 224201 240V, 7.2/9.6kW. It requires a minimum amount pressure to activate. Manufacturer recommends minimum of 30 PSI.

We have an artesian well currently with no pump. We had a submersible (several), but they, together with the control boxes, would always burn out after approximately 2 years of service. Our well technician recommended going pumpless and running strait artesian. He pulled the pump, removing at the pitless adapter. The rest of the system is still in place (old pressure tank etc.) No problems until now.

The new heater will only work for a short duration not even enough to fill a sink for hand washing dishes, then goes off. I presume due to drop in pressure. Any ideas on best way to boost pressure enough for the hot water heater to work when needed?

Thought about a booster pump... added in line right before the hot water heater, but would that not work because it is after the pressure tank?


Any help would be most appreciated.

 

[Valveman]

Don't know why you had a pressure tank without having a pump? But anyway the booster pump goes before the pressure tank/pressure switch.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jack-of-All-Trades]

Thank you for the video on the cycle stop valve. Though a bit of an investment sounds like it would be a wise investment..saving the pump and control box from burning out.
After viewing that. I am curious; I f I had a cycle stop valve, what type of pump would you recommend for my set up as described above? Almost sounds like going back to a submersible might actually work. But, I am no pro like you, so I would love to hear what you'd recommend.

- I think my well guy actually got fed up with having to come out so often and that's why he recommended going straight artesian. ( you would think he was happy to have the work, but glad he seems to think of what would work best for his customers) I'll have to tell him about the CSV.

 

[Valveman]

Yes a submersible would work. Actually having a jet pump on an Artesian well is strange, a sub is more normal. But either should work.

 

[Reach4]

A submersible is quieter, but needs the wires through the cap to be sealed because you have an artesian well.

Plus you would need the pitless to match the existing pitless part.

Valveman has suggested Goulds J5S and J7S in the past.

 

[Jack-of-All-Trades]

Looking at the Goulds J5S and J7s, I think that may be a good way to go, just because I can do it all myself then, and if there are pump problems, I might be able to fix the pump rather than have to buy a whole new pump again!

The pumps also say the are serviceable, so if there is a problem I might be able to repair / rebuild it myself. My service man said there is no way to rebuild submersibles once they’ve burnt out.

With my usual well professional, I did all the product purchasing, (of what he suggested), all the wiring and plumbing. Then he would come and charge me a few hundred dollars to secure the pump in the well using his pitless tool. If I can do it all myself saves me time and $.

I think ½ HP J5S would work, but would it be better to go with ¾ HP J7S because of my double 30 breaker and 3 wire electric? Too much power for a ½ HP pump and not worth the work and cost to convert rest of system?

Thank You!

 

[Reach4]

Are you saying your pump would not have its own breaker? You should have a smaller breaker anyway. Breakers are usually cheap.

I would think the 1/2 HP would be better, but others may think differently. I am not a pro.

I would put a combination vacuum+pressure gauge on the suction line. 30Hg-100PSI or 30Hg-60PSI. That is not commonly done, but you have a somewhat unusual situation. The downside is that you could add more potential spots for a vacuum leak, but just be careful to not get vacuum leaks.

 

[Jack-of-All-Trades]

Yes, my pump has always had it's own dedicated breaker.

In the past we always had 3 wire ¾ Hp 10 GPM submersible pump with a 25 gallon pressure tank. The pump and their control boxes would always burn out rather quickly, so out well tech recommended going with just artesian power. I am hoping the cycle stop valve will stop this need for regular replacement of pumps and control boxes.

As far as Cary’s Tip Jar: I very much appreciate your advise and expertise; Yet unfortunately, I am not yet a multi-millionaire with money to spare. I've been living off my meager savings since January of this year. So the $375.00 you made off my purchase of the PK1A kit with tank will hopefully suffice.

 

[Reach4]

I think they recommend a 15 amp breaker for either when supplying 240 volts.

 

[Jack-of-All-Trades]

Well, maybe that’s one reason my pump and control boxes are always burning up? If the breaker takes twice the recommended power before it will trip! …. Maybe my local well technician is not quite as knowledgeable as I thought. The first time he came out the double 30 breaker was one of the things he had me go out and buy and install.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah it is the cycling that burns out the pump and control boxes. A breaker is only to protect the electric grid from your burned up pump. 3/4HP needs a 25 amp and 30 won't hurt.

 

[Reach4]

I was going by http://snowcrest.net/thriftysupply/pdf/GouldsJetP-S.pdf
https://www.pumpfundamentals.com/goulds residential pump guide.pdf page 7 also says 15 is sufficient.

But I agree that the breaker is to protect the wiring rather than the pump.