Booster pump: pressure vs volume

[RobFromLI]

My house has a well and a submersible pump, which leads to a pressure switch and xtrol tank in the basement, and then to a water softener / ph regulation setup, then out to the house. The pressure switch is set to 60 psi. When the washer is filling, or the sprinklers are on, etc, the pressure drops. I have thought for a long time about installing a pressure boosting pump, but my question is, in order to boost pressure, would there not have to be a greater volume of water sent out of the system, and if so will this lead to a situation at some point where the storage tank empties and the pump is putting direct suction on the well pump? My understanding of fluid dynamics / physics may be flawed here, but it seems to me if the pressure is increased to say 60 psi on all open fixtures, then more water is moving through the system, meaning more water has to come in.

 

[LLigetfa]

If you apply suction to a vessel such as your pressure tank and your softener, they will likely collapse and be destroyed.

Can you not set the pump to kick out at a higher pressure? Do keep in mind that higher pressures could put undue strain on the pressure tank, house plumbing, hot water tanks, and the softener.

The only way to really overcome pressure loss due to low flow is to remove the flow restriction. That may mean up-sizing some of the piping, getting a water softener capable of more GPM and making sure the pump in the well can produce the needed GPM at the desired pressure.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

My house has a well and a submersible pump, which leads to a pressure switch and xtrol tank in the basement, and then to a water softener / ph regulation setup, then out to the house. The pressure switch is set to 60 psi. When the washer is filling, or the sprinklers are on, etc, the pressure drops.

1. Is that pressure drop indicated by the pressure gauge?
2. Does the pressure on that gauge drop below 38 PSI?

My understanding of fluid dynamics / physics may be flawed here, but it seems to me if the pressure is increased to say 60 psi on all open fixtures, then more water is moving through the system, meaning more water has to come in.

How is your knowledge of electronics? If good, think of pressure as voltage. Think of pipes and valves as wires with significant resistance. Think of water flow (gpm) as current. Maybe think of showerheads and washers as switched resistive loads.

 

[Jadnashua]

You don't want a booster pump on your well unless you pump it first into a large storage tank, then pump it from there. If that tank is bigger than your biggest demand, the well pump can then refill that storage tank slowly until it refills for later use.

If your well can produce a higher volume, you could replace the pump at the well.

A water softener can often be the source of pressure/volume restrictions.

 

[Valveman]

I would expect the pressure to drop from 60 to 40 when water is turned on. When just filling the washing machine though, the pump should come on at 40 and build up to 60 and shut off. It may also be doing this cycling on and off while the sprinklers are running. If that is the case, your low pressure is cause by the cycling on/off between 40 and 60.

But if the pressure just goes low and stays there while the washing machine is filling and/or the sprinklers are running, the pump is just not producing enough water. Like Jadnashua says, you can't pump more water than the well can produce. But if the well will produce more water you can install a larger pump. Adding an additional booster pump won't help unless the well pump can supply enough flow.

My guess is the pump is continually cycling between 40 and 60. If so a Cycle Stop Valve holding a constant 50 or 55 PSI would make pressure and flow in the house and sprinklers much stronger.