Lordoftheflies
Active Member
Hi.
Wondering if you all could offer suggestions as to how to plumb my shower/tub combo.
I have the Kohler 2971-k-na 3/4" inlet and outlet mixing valve. I'll be bringing up 1" PEX to the 2nd floor the entire way from the 3/4" copper main. This unit does not have a built in diverter and has only one outlet.
To switch between the tub and the shower I'll be using the Kohler 737-ks-na. This is a 3-way transfer valve but I have already configured it for 2-way operation.
The installation manual for the 2971 says to not use elbows on the outlet so I'm assuming that means I have to install the diverter above the mixing valve (which makes sense anyways).
The outlet for the bath on the diverter will be on the left (facing the valve as if you're using it). I'll be using 1/2" copper to the tub spout since both the outlet on the diverter and the tub spout pipe are 1/2".
My concerns:
1. Will I be using too many elbows from the diverter to the tub spout? One will turn down from the diverter, one will turn right to bring it back to center, then one more to turn into the drop ear. Plus I don't know if I need an additional in case the pipes block each other.
2. The 2971 mixing valve doesn't have any brass screw holes to secure it to the bracing. The only screw holes are in the plastic guard all the way in the front of the unit. That guard does seem pretty sturdy but the entire back of the unit is smooth and this is a heavy unit. It measures 3.5" from the front of the plastic guard to the rear of the unit and the guard is only 3/8" thick. Is this unit designed to be held in by the 3/4" copper piping? Since I'll be using 1" PEX which is quite stiff, I suppose it's some ok but I still don't like it. I don't understand why they didn't include some brass screw holes to secure the valve to the 2x4 bracing. In the below pic for shower only configuration (all the pics for all the configs look the same) you can clearly see the back of the unit up against the bracing. The rear face is just about 3.75" so even if I wanted to use those holes in the brace they don't line up.
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This is the only part it talks about bracing in the installation manual.
If you go to the roughing-in section this is what you see. Not very helpful.
3. Can I use 3/4" PEX from the diverter to the shower or should I use 1/2" copper?
4. Here's a quick sketch of what I'm thinking of doing. Please feel free to correct anything.
5. Here's a pic of the unit sitting on a 2x4. I was thinking maybe I could use some straps around the outlet brass but those are inset from the back of the unit.
6. Should I use long sweep copper elbows instead of short ones? I'm trying to fill a 70 gallon 66" x 32" x 22" bathtub quickly....And I want to minimize turbulence and friction.
Thanks.
Wondering if you all could offer suggestions as to how to plumb my shower/tub combo.
I have the Kohler 2971-k-na 3/4" inlet and outlet mixing valve. I'll be bringing up 1" PEX to the 2nd floor the entire way from the 3/4" copper main. This unit does not have a built in diverter and has only one outlet.
To switch between the tub and the shower I'll be using the Kohler 737-ks-na. This is a 3-way transfer valve but I have already configured it for 2-way operation.
The installation manual for the 2971 says to not use elbows on the outlet so I'm assuming that means I have to install the diverter above the mixing valve (which makes sense anyways).
The outlet for the bath on the diverter will be on the left (facing the valve as if you're using it). I'll be using 1/2" copper to the tub spout since both the outlet on the diverter and the tub spout pipe are 1/2".
My concerns:
1. Will I be using too many elbows from the diverter to the tub spout? One will turn down from the diverter, one will turn right to bring it back to center, then one more to turn into the drop ear. Plus I don't know if I need an additional in case the pipes block each other.
2. The 2971 mixing valve doesn't have any brass screw holes to secure it to the bracing. The only screw holes are in the plastic guard all the way in the front of the unit. That guard does seem pretty sturdy but the entire back of the unit is smooth and this is a heavy unit. It measures 3.5" from the front of the plastic guard to the rear of the unit and the guard is only 3/8" thick. Is this unit designed to be held in by the 3/4" copper piping? Since I'll be using 1" PEX which is quite stiff, I suppose it's some ok but I still don't like it. I don't understand why they didn't include some brass screw holes to secure the valve to the 2x4 bracing. In the below pic for shower only configuration (all the pics for all the configs look the same) you can clearly see the back of the unit up against the bracing. The rear face is just about 3.75" so even if I wanted to use those holes in the brace they don't line up.
This is the only part it talks about bracing in the installation manual.
If you go to the roughing-in section this is what you see. Not very helpful.
3. Can I use 3/4" PEX from the diverter to the shower or should I use 1/2" copper?
4. Here's a quick sketch of what I'm thinking of doing. Please feel free to correct anything.
5. Here's a pic of the unit sitting on a 2x4. I was thinking maybe I could use some straps around the outlet brass but those are inset from the back of the unit.
6. Should I use long sweep copper elbows instead of short ones? I'm trying to fill a 70 gallon 66" x 32" x 22" bathtub quickly....And I want to minimize turbulence and friction.
Thanks.
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