best toilet to go kit for $100

[eajonesyk2]

I need a inexpensive toilet kit for my vacation cabin. Theft of the toilet is a concern so I don't want to invest more than $100. There is no water supply on site. I have to haul in water and I will be manually filling the tank. I am leaning towards an HD (glacier bay) kit SKU 303-635 for $80. It has a 1000 gram MaP rating and looks like it could do the trick. Any other suggestions for $100 or less.

Currently there is some type of plastic RV or portable toilet up there. It was just sitting on the closet flange but wasn't bolted down. No trap just wide open view in to the drain pipe. We used it but it wasn't pleasant and by the second day it was pretty ripe in there.

I have and will still consider getting a used low flow but there isn't many out there and I am not sure what to look for in a used toilet. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks.
Eric

 

[Cass]

All the toilets in a box will work equaly well...just buy a plunger at the same time.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Leejosepho]

There is no water supply on site. I have to haul in water ...

Currently there is some type of plastic RV or portable toilet up there. It was just sitting on the closet flange but wasn't bolted down. No trap just wide open view in to the drain pipe. We used it but it wasn't pleasant and by the second day it was pretty ripe in there.

It sounds to me like you might have some kind of indoor outhouse with that "pretty ripe" drain pipe not actually going very far. If so, a regular flush toilet might only flush a few times before overflowing all over the floor.

 

[hj]

toilet

Your RV toilet should have a "kick starter" valve to close the pipe. You use it and then the water is added while the valve is open. Apparently you only have the top part of it.

 

[eajonesyk2]

It sounds to me like you might have some kind of indoor outhouse with that "pretty ripe" drain pipe not actually going very far. If so, a regular flush toilet might only flush a few times before overflowing all over the floor.

There is a decent septic system that was installed in 2000. That was about the only thing done that a permit was issued for. It has a 1000 gallon tank and the system is designed to handle 450 gallons a day according to the permit info I was given.

We dumped quite a bit of water down the drain because the system had not been used for at least two years and there was no sign of of anything backing up.

Do you feel that if the drain connection to the septic tank was complete and clear that there should not be any odors coming from the open drain pipe?

 

[Bob NH]

I need a inexpensive toilet kit for my vacation cabin. Theft of the toilet is a concern so I don't want to invest more than $100. There is no water supply on site. I have to haul in water and I will be manually filling the tank. I am leaning towards an HD (glacier bay) kit SKU 303-635 for $80. It has a 1000 gram MaP rating and looks like it could do the trick. Any other suggestions for $100 or less.

Thanks.
Eric

Buy a bowl only and provide a bucket for people to fill and use.

Provide instructions on how to use it, and to keep some water available if required to fill the trap after the flush. In most cases the trap will not empty completely. I just tested a 6-qt flush on a 1.6 gallon toilet. It worked fine and there was water remaining for the trap seal.

When I was a kid on the farm we used the direct bucket method for flushing when the power was out. A 10 qt bucket would flush a 1937-vintage toilet.

MAP won't mean a lot because the flush is not the same. You will experiment to determine the amount of water needed for a #2 slush and for a #1 flush.

 

[eajonesyk2]

Your RV toilet should have a "kick starter" valve to close the pipe. You use it and then the water is added while the valve is open. Apparently you only have the top part of it.

hj,

I think you may be right about there only being part of an RV toilet there. The piece that is there sits only about 10 or 12 inches off the floor which even for my younger body made it uncomfortable sitting down and getting up. There is no valves and no provision for flushing on this unit.

Also there were remnants of a wax ring around the closet flange, but there were no signs on the "rv" toilet piece that the wax ring was used for the connection of that piece. I think previous owners had a standard toilet there at one time and I am not sure were it went.

 

[eajonesyk2]

Buy a bowl only and provide a bucket for people to fill and use.

Provide instructions on how to use it, and to keep some water available if required to fill the trap after the flush. In most cases the trap will not empty completely. I just tested a 6-qt flush on a 1.6 gallon toilet. It worked fine and there was water remaining for the trap seal.

When I was a kid on the farm we used the direct bucket method for flushing when the power was out. A 10 qt bucket would flush a 1937-vintage toilet.

MAP won't mean a lot because the flush is not the same. You will experiment to determine the amount of water needed for a #2 slush and for a #1 flush.

Bob NH,

I love that idea but I tried it here in my toilet at home and it took two attempts (2 gallons each pour) to get most of the stuff down and there were still bits and pieces floating around. My toilet is an old Briggs that uses 3.5 gallons or more per flush. The bucket technique might work for me with a better low flow bowl design. The bowl only set up would fit right in with the rest of place.

Thanks for that suggestion.

 

[Leejosepho]

Do you [believe] that if the drain connection to the septic tank was complete and clear that there should not be any odors coming from the open drain pipe?

No, a regular toilet has a trap in the base to keep odors from coming up, and it is quite normal that your open line would be odoriferous. That is a problem and a danger all in itself inside the cabin, but my initial concern was that your line could clog if solids are dropped into it without enough water behind them to carry them on out to the septic tank.