Best fill valve?

[JohnCT]

I built my house in 1993, and it has (if you can believe this), three original toilet fill valves. Two of the three are starting to leak a bit, and it's time to replace them all.. or should I?

I know Fluidmaster is the common replacement fill valve these days, but at my shop I've been replacing them every few years - same at my mom's house and my father in law's house.

The original fill valves from 1993 are hoov-r-line 8121-1as with the old school ballcock float. But I've never had a problem with them. 28 years is pretty good, three out of three.

For a couple of dollars more than a Fluidmaster, I can buy a new hoov-r-line as, surprisingly, they're still made.

So my questions are if these valves are still reliable as they used to be, and would a home inspector allow them (I thought I read they wouldn't). Is there a more reliable, longer lasting fill valve than the Fluidmaster?

Also, there is a kit for the hoov-r-line : https://www.amazon.com/Ballcock-Repair-Cap-Hoov-R-Line-Hole/dp/B000MW4P7U/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2A0467R3PBP10&dchild=1&keywords=hoov-r-line+8121-1as&qid=1587597109&sprefix=hoov+-r-+l,aps,292&sr=8-1

But it doesn't say if it includes the internal diaphram or gasket that would cause an incomplete shutoff.

Any advice appreciated.

John

 

[Jadnashua]

The working part of the Fluidmaster is easily replaceable, and cheap. The same is true of the Korky quietfill series. Between those two, I'd probably go with the Korky Quietfill as the shutoff is more gradual. While it doesn't happen everywhere, the Fluidmaster tends to shut off more abruptly, and that can cause some supply line noises more often than with what you have or the Korky design.

FWIW, it's rarely the case when you need to replace the entire valve on Fluidmaster or Korky. The actual sealing gasket is quickly replaced for in the $3 range.

The seals on the Fluidmaster and Korky may have a shorter life than what you have, but a lot of that depends on your water pressure and chemistry. Replaceable without tools, though. I tend to keep a spare sitting around, so if I notice an issue, I can fix it right then rather than having to make a run to the store when I have time and think about it. The trigger that you may need a replacement seal on the Korky is a delay for the water to turn on after flushing...the gasket is getting stiff. Eventually, it will crack after that starts.

 

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[Jeff H Young]

just swapped out all 3 of my Fluidmasters think I changed 2 of them in 2015 I was getting a water hammer from one of them. Changing the seal works too I'm going to get some of them too because I do repairs for others too. honestly they don't last long enough with my water and pressure

 

[DIYorBust]

I find I've had a lot more problems with my fluidmasters than my korkys, so now I try to replace with korky when I have the chance.

 

[Jadnashua]

Older valves may not contain an anti-siphon valve in them. Now, that normally isn't a big common issue, but having that feature adds insurance that with a problem, you can't suck toilet tank water back into your potable water system.