Bathtub faucet spout shoots off like a rocket

[Rese]

Hello,

When the water is on the faucet functions fine, but once the diverter is pulled up to activate the shower the spout shoots out.

I've tried to manually hold it in place and it still fights to come off or the water comes out of the back end. I've tried some Teflon tape on the tip of the pipe that screws into the faucet, but the pressure from the water still forces it off. It looks like there must be something missing from inside the spout. There is also a little hold on the underside that makes me think there should be a set screw there, but again something internal seems to be missing.

It doesn't seem like it's a hard fix, I just don't know what I need to purchase to accomplish that. Any ideas that will help? I will try to post a picture once I get back. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Terry]

You're missing the set screw that holds it on.
Either find one, or grab a new spout with all the parts. No tape is used there.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

THere are two common types of tub spouts...
- those that screw on
- those that push on

Those that screw on, typically don't have a set screw since you tighten it up against the wall, and that's enough friction to both seal it and hold it in place (and the threads won't let it slide straight off).

Those that push on typically rely on an O-ring to seal, but need something to hold it in place, which is almost always a setscrew. ON this type, if the end of the pipe is not smoothed off, pushing it on can damage the O-ring, and it can leak, but still, the setscrew should hold it on the pipe.

To complicate things yet a little more, Delta (and maybe others) have one that screws on, but is sealed by an O-ring. It won't slide off under water pressure, either.

 

[Rese]

The end of the pipe has ridges for it to screw and it screwed on. Also is there supposed to be hole in the copper pipe for the set screw to go into?

I'm including the pictures of the spout and pipe.

 

[hj]

IF the spout "screws" on to the pipe it is impossible for it to "shoot" off, so we are not getting the whole story. How about a photo of the pipe AFTER the spout shoots off?

 

[Terry]

You have a thread on spout there. No screw is needed. However, it may be that the length of the copper from the wall is too short for it to catch any threads.
If it threads on, it can't be pulled off. I'm thinking you need to make the tube longer from the wall so that it will thread on. Either that or get a different spout for that. What you have isn't the easiest one for a homeowner to install.

 

[Reach4]

A new spout might have a bigger cover-area at the wall. My Delta Faucet RP17454 Tub Spout Pull-Down Diverter is about 8 inches circumference at the wall, which is about 2.55 inches diameter.

It does not dribble nearly as much as the average diverter spout does during a shower. Looks like the one discussed here: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....d-cant-figure-out-how-to-turn-on-shower.7595/
You may find that long thread amusing.

There are others that have a pull-up knob instead.

 

[Rese]

IF the spout "screws" on to the pipe it is impossible for it to "shoot" off, so we are not getting the whole story. How about a photo of the pipe AFTER the spout shoots off?

That picture of the pipe is AFTER it shoots of. Now I can try to make a video to show you.

 

[Reach4]

How about dimensions of the pipe sticking from the wall, and how far in the threads on the spout start and end?

 

[Jadnashua]

It does not appear that the spout got more than one-two threads engaged. Keep in mind that what you have is a TAPERED plumbing thread, so it needs to get tightened down to both make the seal and to hold it in place. The skill in the plumbing is to get the projection from the wall to be exact so that the spout gets tight when it just gets tight to the wall.

That's where sometimes using a push-on spout can be easier.

Some spouts (Delta has one) that has you solder an adapter to the pipe, and that adapter has an O-ring that makes the seal, and there's a lot of depth so you don't have to be anywhere near as accurate in guessing the length of the pipe's projection from the wall. That adapter has a straight thread (like a bolt), not tapered, so you just keep screwing it on until it butts up against the wall and is the right orientation.

 

[hj]

In that case we would have to know HOW you are connecting the spout, because even a couple of thread would NOT Let it "shoot off", although it would leak like crazy.

 

[Rese]

I'm trying to upload a video to show you.

 

[Rese]

Here is video of what is happening?

 

[Jadnashua]

As I said, the pipe thread is tapered. It's not fully engaging the threads. TO make a seal, and to have it hold, you have to thread the thing on more so it's like driving a wedge. The fitting is not out far enough from the wall to work with that spout. Did you have new tile installed? The pipe needs to be longer so that you can actually tighten it up. Those first threads are barely making contact...the further you go into the fitting in the spout, the tighter it would get. You'd know it was getting tight because it would continually become harder and harder to turn to the point where you might need a wrench to tighten it further. A tapered pipe thread is not like a bolt...the more you screw on the fitting, the tighter it gets...a bolt and nut just keep turning until you're out of threads...What's happening is that the back of the spout is hitting the wall, and when you turn it, it's jumping on the threads...it cannot continue on into the fitting and get tight to make a seal.

 

[Rese]

Right I understand what tapered means. I haven't personally installed anything, but the person that renovated this house did. I moved in a month ago and we're the first occupants since the renovation. Clearly the contractors are subpar and we have been dealing with a lot of shit since then.

So I doubt I can extend the pipe, so would buying a shorter faucet be the way to go?

 

[Reach4]

So I doubt I can extend the pipe, so would buying a shorter faucet be the way to go?

Many spouts are much longer than the pipe they connect to.

You could extend the pipe, but it unlikely that you would need to do so.

If you pick out a new spout, I think you would want one that will cover the stone cuts.

 

[Terry]

Is the pipe solid coming from the wall?
Sometimes people will use a Sharkbite behind the tile that allows the pipe to spin. If it spins, it will be very hard to thread on any spout.
If the pipe is solid, then you have something to work with.
There are plenty of slip fit spouts that slide over 1/2 copper that will secure with an Allen wrench. You could cut off the end where the male adapter is, slip on the new spout and tighten it up with an Allen wrench. You wouldn't need a handyman for that. Just a tubing cutter and the correct size Allen wrench.

Below is a standard Moen tub spout. They come in different styles and finishes.

 

[Jadnashua]

The installation instructions for any spout will have specifications on how far away from the wall the pipe and/or fitting must be for that specific spout.

Probably your easier choice would be to see if you can find that spout in a push-on version. Manufacturers sometimes make them as both screw on and push on versions. To get a push-on version to work, after removing that threaded fitting sticking out of the wall, you'd need the remaining stub to be within the min/max of what's left. A hack saw could cut it off, a torch could melt the solder and let it be pulled off, and if there's enough length, a tubing cutter. Regardless, should you decide to use a push-on spout, the end must be free from any burrs or sharp edges, or you'll likely destroy the O-ring, and it would then leak. To install one, you push it on, position it where you want, and tighten up the screw from underneath.

 

[hj]

You can tell the "plumbing ability" of the person who drew the installation diagram, because he says to "open the main valve" after installing the spout.