Bathtub Drain Shoe Pointing Uphill

[Sam Shutes]

I’m completely renovating my bathroom, a full gut and replace. I am to the point where I have installed the bathtub (level in both directions) in a bed of mortar and I am tying in the drain and overflow assembly. The cable drain fittings were attached to the tub prior to setting to ensure a good seal. The plan was simply to dry fit and tie in the drain and overflow after setting and call it a victory.

Unfortunately I’ve hit a roadblock. The 6” section of the horizontal drain line is running uphill about 1/2” in that short 6” run prior to hitting the sanitary tee. This appears to be due to the tub drain shoe kicked up at an angle. I removed the tub drain shoe and it appears that the area underneath the tub that surround the tub drain hole is simply not square, but rather shaped in a way that when you tighten the tub drain shoe, the result is that the outlet points uphill. I noticed that it might be pointing uphill when I attached the shoe prior to setting, but in every video I watched of this install, no one ever checks this small section of drain for slope, so I didn’t think anything of it.

I don’t want 1/2” standing water sitting in my tub drain shoe, which has some metal components. It seems that this should be level at a minimum. Can I use a beveled gasket designed for the overflow, replacing the flat gasket to overcome what seems to be a manufacturing defect on this expensive tub? Any other thoughts or options would be appreciated.

-Sam

 

[Sam Shutes]

It seems another option would be to ditch the cable drain (which was the recommended drain and overflow by the manufacturer, purchased from the manufacturer) and go with a direct drain assembly instead.

I would still like feedback on the ability to use a beveled gasket below the tub drain, however. My concern is simply that this softer rubber gasket may not be designed for the load of the main drain vs. the overflow? Any other concerns?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Very unusual situation. Tubs are normally ground level at the bottom. I don't think it's a worry if there is standing water there, there will always be water in the p-trap too. I don't know of a bevel washer that would work for the drain shoe. Those are under more pressure than the top overflow.

 

[Sam Shutes]

Knowing that I have full access from the unfinished side of the basement beneath and an access panel on the drain side, would you go ahead with this assembly knowing that the short 6" of 1-1/2" PVC is running uphill and monitor for slow drainage?

The "drop back and punt" plan in the event of drainage issue would be to cut out the assembly and go in with a brand new assembly using a direct drain style tub drain shoe.

 

[Terry]

The direct drain pointing down may be a good idea.

 

[Sam Shutes]

Following up on this, the direct drain from Watco was a successful solution. I am fortunate that the area directly below my tub is an unfinished portion of the basement as I had the flexibility to locate the trap wherever I needed it (meaning I did not need to locate it within as wall cavity).

I was able to further confirm this was a manufacturer defect with the tub. Essentially, the drain hole was cut too far towards the plumbing wall. The area around the drain hole is 'dished' if you will to allow all of the water to drain properly. The drain hole needs to be cut in the center (or bottom) of the 'dish.' My drain hole was cut slightly on the uphill which not only throws the drain out of whack below, but leaves some standing water (1/4" to 1/2") inside the tub where the bottom of the 'dish' actually is. No big deal, but shouldn't happen for the price of the tub.

Now that I've confirmed it was a defect, I feel more comfortable sharing that this is a Signature Hardware Sitka 60" x 32" Alcove Tub. I had several other issues with SH with this tub as well.