Bathtub brass waste tee to black iron connection, circa 1953

[LeakyBoat]

1953 Crane bathtub and plumbing from that era.

The brass waste-tee exit port has no slip nut, this has me baffled
Yet it somehow mates with black iron and that odd slip nut. So there is some mystery fitting(s) between the drain tee and the nipple+90 elbow.

I had replaced the wastewater drain gasket, cracked and leaking due to age. After reassembly, the drain sits (more) crooked and the waste tee needs to come up. But I can't figure out the fitting/construction to do this. What is this?

With overflow removed:

 

[Terry]

You have that connected to a drum trap, which could be replaced perhaps with a regular P-Trap.

The brass tub drain uses 1.5" slip joint nuts and washers.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Here is a picture of a very strange drum trap, done with lead, and I'm not seeing a vent for it. Not good.

 

[LeakyBoat]

My drum trap does look like it is weeping and needs replacing. Can you please suggest a p-trap configuration.
I would use a sawzall to cut the 1-1/2" galv. drain pipe at the drum trap exit, then use a flex-coupling to new PVC pipe? The floor joist makes it tight workspace.
I'm concerned the drain pipe is pretty much flush under the subfloor, which makes it high up compared to the tee exit.
There's about 6-1/2" of room from the tee bottom and it's pretty much level with the drain pipe bottom edge.

I have

 

[Terry]

A coupling like this would be good. The metal wrap prevents sagging.

It might be interesting fitting a p-trap there with the heights, but I'm sure it will be better than what you have now.

 

[LeakyBoat]

Thanks for your help. The problem is the drain pipe (to the stack) is now high compared to the tub's drain tee, because a drum trap has a way lower inlet than a modern p-trap.
Can you see if this is reasonable. There is the brass tee, slip-male hub coupler, p-trap union joint/hub, 90 elbow and then to the band-seal coupler.
I don't see enough vertical room and looking for ideas to drop the p-trap down.
If I use a hub-hub p-trap, then you can't get this thing apart for service, it needs a union joint somewhere I think.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I'd use the coupling Terry showed , and replace the waste and overflow on the tub as well going with all glue in PVC or ABS pick your flavor. no unions to take apart its permanant should be good 40 or 50 years or until you decide to re model

 

[LeakyBoat]

That seems best- but I found the tub waste/overflow kits are cheap junk out of china, thin plastic no approvals etc, so I kinda like the brass tee and pipe. But the original brass tee slip nut seems welded in place, steel on steel and lead washer. WD40 and I torqued hard on it and it did not budge, so it might not be salvageable. I think I can get a new brass tee with male exit.
I could not find an ABS slip tee of decent quality, and making one using ABS tee/slip adapters makes it way too big.

 

[Jeff H Young]

That seems best- but I found the tub waste/overflow kits are cheap junk out of china, thin plastic no approvals etc, so I kinda like the brass tee and pipe. But the original brass tee slip nut seems welded in place, steel on steel and lead washer. WD40 and I torqued hard on it and it did not budge, so it might not be salvageable. I think I can get a new brass tee with male exit.
I could not find an ABS slip tee of decent quality, and making one using ABS tee/slip adapters makes it way too big.

Use a sch40 DWV solid glue p trap and waste and overflow not thin "tubular" style stuff.
The common brand used to be ( Rapid fit tub waste and overflow) name but its used to describe the type as well

 

[LeakyBoat]

Any suggestions for how to cut that pipe?
The tub and brace, joists leave little room. I can only get at one side of the pipe.

One power tool I could fit is an oscillating multi-tool, Bosch GOP18V-20 with OSL114C carbide blade and I went at it... only to realize it's a suicide mission - the blade is good for 1-1/4" depth and the pipe is 2". I looked at available metal blades for something longer over 2" but they're for wood or HSS. My first use of a multi-tool on metal and it seemed over-hyped, cutting nails in vids.

I couldn't find a way to cut the 1-1/2" sch40 galv pipe

 

[Jeff H Young]

cut the nipple going to the drum trap put a solid glue p trap might have to cheat with street santee or maybe a regular 1/4 bend instead of the provided trap 90 but the horizontal nipple connecting to the ptrap cant be too high unless its above the floor or a long trap arm. this should work dont see a problem ? other than getting in there to make the cut