Bathroom trap sizes and fitting selection...

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Jeff H Young

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you need to connect your 2 inch vent to a 3 inch not 2 2 inch vents and then increase to 3 inch and out roof.
I figure if he can do the plumbing he dosent need a roofer to install a flashing
 

hhcibtpaun

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I would ask your county building code department on the required height. If there were no minimum, what height would you use then? Most of PA uses the unmodified 2018 IPC, but the unmodified 2018 IPC is silent on that.

Maybe look at other roofs, including new construction, and those might give you a good indication. If your vent is going to be on the side of the roof not visible from the street, then your concern about what it looks like should be less significant. Regular PVC should be protected against sun. Latex paint is one way. I might use 2 inch gray schedule 80 plastic conduit. I think it is treated for UV.

https://ecode360.com/32022076 says 12 inches for Township of Warrington, PA.

Thanks. I will look into the conduit. I thought I could just pop out the PVC?

I think the pipe will be on the backside of the roof, so If I do not get a definitive answer, maybe I will we in the 12-18 range. The current one is a copper sleeve that is probably like 8 inches.

Thanks...Mike
 

hhcibtpaun

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you need to connect your 2 inch vent to a 3 inch not 2 2 inch vents and then increase to 3 inch and out roof.
I figure if he can do the plumbing he dosent need a roofer to install a flashing

Yeah. My plan is to take my new vent that is now in a closet @ 2", poke that through the ceiling into the attic and at the entry in the attic upsize to 3". Then the vent coming from the 3" waste stack, I will drop that the 2" a few inches above the bathroom floor and run it about 6ft up the wall and maybe 7feet through the attic @ 2" and pick up the 3" pipe. Is this OK?

I will have a roofer be doing everything outside. I am shooting to get everything done this weekend, so I can get my new roof. He will work with me. I will be in the attic attaching the pipes and he will put the collars on and get the roof installed.

Thanks...Mike
 

Jeff H Young

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Yeah. My plan is to take my new vent that is now in a closet @ 2", poke that through the ceiling into the attic and at the entry in the attic upsize to 3". Then the vent coming from the 3" waste stack, I will drop that the 2" a few inches above the bathroom floor and run it about 6ft up the wall and maybe 7feet through the attic @ 2" and pick up the 3" pipe. Is this OK?

I will have a roofer be doing everything outside. I am shooting to get everything done this weekend, so I can get my new roof. He will work with me. I will be in the attic attaching the pipes and he will put the collars on and get the roof installed.

Thanks...Mike
I think your vent cross section needs to be equal or exceed the 3 inch 2 2 inch vents I dont think would pass
 

hhcibtpaun

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I think your vent cross section needs to be equal or exceed the 3 inch 2 2 inch vents I dont think would pass
I may be explaining bad. Here is a quick (real quick) sketch of what I am thinking:

vent2.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

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Well I think Im getting technical on the code but youve got 2 2 inch vents that you are artificialy incresing to 3 inch rather than bringing sufficient cross sectional; venting off the 3 inch main . I hope this makes sence it would be like having a single 1 1/2" vent and then just increasing it to 3 inch that wouldnt fly
 

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IPC is a lot less demanding for vent area vs UPC.
 

hhcibtpaun

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Well I think Im getting technical on the code but youve got 2 2 inch vents that you are artificialy incresing to 3 inch rather than bringing sufficient cross sectional; venting off the 3 inch main . I hope this makes sence it would be like having a single 1 1/2" vent and then just increasing it to 3 inch that wouldnt fly

So, if I keep the 3"coming off the toilet and join them into the one 3" in the attic would that be ok? So in my little picture, the pipe would be 3" up the wall and through the attic from the bathroom and the closet vent would remain the same (2" upsized in the attic).

Thanks...Mike
 

Jeff H Young

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So, if I keep the 3"coming off the toilet and join them into the one 3" in the attic would that be ok? So in my little picture, the pipe would be 3" up the wall and through the attic from the bathroom and the closet vent would remain the same (2" upsized in the attic).

Thanks...Mike
I follow you but you are actually choking that 3 inch down and then increasing it elsewhere , I know Im nit picking but I think thats the intent of the code As reach 4 mentioned might be a differance in the code
 

hhcibtpaun

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I follow you but you are actually choking that 3 inch down and then increasing it elsewhere , I know Im nit picking but I think thats the intent of the code As reach 4 mentioned might be a differance in the code
For the 3" from the bathroom, that would not be choked down. The only transition to 2" would be where it enters the closet. I think my 2" branch can support what is on it, and the 3" can support everything?

So, if that does not work, I would just have to send the 3" from the bathroom straight out of the roof, like it is now and add the second vent through the roof? I would upsize that to 3", since I think someone said that would help with icing over...

Thanks...Mike
 

Jeff H Young

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Your way of plumbing it is the same as running 2 2 inch vents through the roof ( not enough),
 

hhcibtpaun

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Your way of plumbing it is the same as running 2 2 inch vents through the roof ( not enough),

Thanks Jeff. Looks like I will need to do the two pipes through the roof (no biggie).

I think I will just take the stack vent at 3" through the roof (no reducing) and maybe offset it with a 45 in the attic to move it away from the edge of the roof. Then I will maybe just poke the 2" out through the roof without upsizing. I think that should be OK?

Probably shoot for 16" extension past the roof.

SO the hope was I could do this:

ventSingle.jpg


Since, that does not seem proper, I assume this will work? Is it OK to bring the 2" out of the roof?

ventDual.jpg


TIA...Mike
 

Jeff H Young

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truth is itll breath ok just not meeting code I could be off but no one else chimming in , I admit its a little nit picky
 

hhcibtpaun

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truth is itll breath ok just not meeting code I could be off but no one else chimming in , I admit its a little nit picky

Thanks for all of you input Jeff. Greatly appreciated.

I assumed it would breathe, but I will just do it to meet code. No one will be inspecting it anyway :), but just in case. The original configuration was the one 3" vent out of the stack and no individual fixture vents.

My thinking was if I merged the 2" vent into the 3, then the one 3" exit would be OK. Nevertheless, putting the two pipes out of the roof is easier. I will have a third cutout in the roof for an exhaust fan.

Thanks again...Mike
 

hhcibtpaun

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Folks,

So, I got my vents run to the roof. A 3 inch and 2 inch. On the 3" vent it runs up a2x4 wall for about 6 feet before it enters the attic. From where it enter the connector at the bottom to where it goes through the top plate if I do nothing, the pipe diverges from the wall by about 3/8" to 1/2", so I pushed it into the wall and secured it with a galvanized strap. Do I need to concern myself with any stresses on the glue joint (I might just be paranoid, since I am forcing it in with the strap - if I pull the strap I am sure the pipe will pop out. I still need to add the drain on the other side of the vent, so when that foes in it will firm everything up too.

Not sure if the divergence is due to a clocked 45, or just a weird glue joint. Tomorrow the roofer comes, so I just need to know if I need to tweak anything, or if it is fine that the strap is just pulling it in.

Thanks....Mike
 

Jeff H Young

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strapping it should be ok at the top plate it shouldnt expand contract or leak since its air . sometimes you gouge out the drywalll at where the hub of fitting is so the drywall will go flush
 

hhcibtpaun

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strapping it should be ok at the top plate it shouldnt expand contract or leak since its air . sometimes you gouge out the drywalll at where the hub of fitting is so the drywall will go flush

Thanks Jeff. I think I may pad out the wall that it is on, since I probably need a 1/4" to cover it. I just wanted to make sure that any stresses I was inducing by strapping would not weaken or or crack the glue.

Thanks....Mike
 
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