Bathroom sink faucet screw won't open

[skald89]

I am trying to replace the cartridge for the bathroom sink. When I turn it to hot the water spouts out from under the handle. I tried using a screwdriver to open it by hand it wouldn't turn. With my drill it would only strip the screw, even with a flathead attachment. Im not sure what to do to open it at this point. Any tips?


This was installed and hasn't been touched in over 15 years.

 

[DIYorBust]

There are some possible techniques but between the time to do it and the cost of special tools, perhaps easier just to replace the faucet?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

Replace the faucet.
I would also replace the flex connectors (hot/cold) and angle stop (shut off valves) under the sink.
Watch youtube if you're not sure and if calling a plumber is prohibitive in your neck of the woods.

 

[skald89]

I have some bigger issue than the screw now. The popping started to leak. I doubt any plumber would come out now and not sure we want one to come. Is this something I could attempt to fix on my own or should we stop using the sink till the virus is over and have a plumber come?

 

[DIYorBust]

Yes you can fix this, and since we are all stuck at home, why not give it a shot. Is that leak coming from the drain? I'm not sure what a popping is, it looks like the drain assembly is leaking, but if the water is coming from up at the faucet where your camera goes at the end then you can leave the drain alone. First thing is buy a new faucet. It's just not worth messing around with that faucet since it doesn't look expensive. Also replace the supply lines. You can bring them to a hardware store or plumbing supply and they'll give you new ones. If not you can order them online, you'll have to check your supply size, but it's very likely 3/8ths. These should be changed every 5 years or so anyway. They could last 5 years, they could last 30 years, but if they burst you could be in for 10s of thousands in water damage. Take this moment to think about what other supply lines in your house you might want to change out. stainless braided are usually fine, it's not worth cheaping out here. Washing machine hoses receive a lot of stress so consider changing those, and maybe adding hammer arrestors if you don't have them.

Install the new faucet per the manufacturers instructions. Now if the drain is still leaking, I would take it apart and rebuild it where it is leaking. You could buy some new washers for the slip joints if that is where the leak is happening, but for a drain like this tightening it up may work.

Read the manual for the faucet you buy so you know what materials and tools you need before you start, and watch a youtube video on drain assembly. It sounds scary, but honestly none of this is very hard. If you can assemble Ikea furniture, in my opinion you can do this. Good luck.

DIYorBust

 

[Reach4]

Is this something I could attempt to fix on my own or should we stop using the sink till the virus is over and have a plumber come?

You want to concentrate on where the water comes out of, rather than where it then goes. Have you identified that? Is that the top of the dark gray tailpiece, or higher than that?

When does the water come out?

1. When you run water into a pan, and none goes down the drain?
2. When you collect water into the basin with the stopper closed so that the basin holds water?
3. When you collect water into the basin, turn the water off, and then later open the stopper to release the water?

I would not totally assume that a plumber won't come out, but you would both take precautions. Maybe no, but maybe yes.

 

[DIYorBust]

You want to concentrate on where the water comes out of, rather than where it then goes. Have you identified that? Is that the top of the dark gray tailpiece, or higher than that?

When does the water come out?

1. When you run water into a pan, and none goes down the drain?
2. When you collect water into the basin with the stopper closed so that the basin holds water?
3. When you collect water into the basin, turn the water off, and then later open the stopper to release the water?

I would not totally assume that a plumber won't come out, but you would both take precautions. Maybe no, but maybe yes.

But are you a plumber?

 

[skald89]

I am not a plumber. I started trying to fix the faucet that spurts out water when it turns to the hot side. The water spurts from under the handle into and then out from under it. Last night the pipes started to leak. It looks like it leaks from 4 places. The hose that attaches to the hot water drips. Three of the connections. Im willing to try it myself before we bring in a plumber and take the risk. We could go without the sink till this virus blows over.

Here are better pictures marking where it leaks. When I turn on the faucet, most of the water goes down the drain. Some of it leaks frm where the pipes connects under the sink, the two parts where the pipes connect, and the hose for the hot water. The hose for the hot water I'm not sure where the leaks starts for it. I just see water dripping down it and dripping down.

You're saying I should just replace the whole handle instead of using the warranty. If I leave that for last, how do I first fix the pipes that are leaking? Is it an issue that everything where the water hoses connect look rusted? This would be my first time doing something like this and its a good time to force myself to get it done. I don't have a wrench that is wide enough to wrap around the screw to tighten it.

I don't know the names of most of these things or how to s=elect the stuff I need on HD to order for pick up

 

[DIYorBust]

Doubt the faucet has a 15 year warranty. Now are you sure all those points on the drain are leaking, or is water just running down the pipe from somewhere else? If all those points leak, the drain was probably not installed correctly. I'd probably do the faucet first because the water could be leaking down from the supply, we can't be sure from the photos. I'd recommend you invest in an adjustable wrench and a set of channel locks that can fit the nuts on the drain, but you really could do it with either one.

I don't see any rust there that I'd be concerned about. One thing, check that your stop valves can shut off the water before you disconnect. In other words make sure the sink can be shut off from underneath, otherwise you will end up having to shut off the water to the house.

 

[Reach4]

Here are better pictures marking where it leaks. When I turn on the faucet, most of the water goes down the drain.

I think you are saying that when the faucet is off, water still comes out. Looks like it may be appearing at the top of the greenish pipe. It looks like a drop of water there in the picture.

On the other hand, if the water comes out at the bottom of the greenish pipe, but sprays upward, that could probably fixed by re-doing the connection at the top of the braided line.

 

[skald89]

I tested it now with water from on outside source and from the faucet. I tried two tests. The first time when I poured water from a bottle it splashed a bit and I saw some leaking. I tried it a second time with a lot more water that filled the whole sink. There was no leak. Then I turned on the cold water, which started the leak again, and I turned off the hot water valve which didn't stop the leak. The leak comes from where Diehard is mentioning, that circle part that the hot water hose meets the faucet.

Thank you to whoever suggested using an external water source to test the leak. Right now I poured some vinegar over the screw, hoping it will helps loosen the screw a bit. Im going to reach out to HD to see if they would replace the whole faucet. If not then I guess my best option is to buy a replacement faucet and change all the stuff under the hot water side?

 

[skald89]

I bought this MOEN faucet. There are two issues I ran into so far.

1. The drainpipe that comes with it is too long. What should I use to cut it to the right length?
2. The rod for the lift rod is also too long to go in because of how close the wall is to the pipe. Even the previous one barely fit and it scratched up the wall. Im not sure how to fix this part

 

[Terry]

New faucet, new supply lines. 1/2" x 3/8" compression 16" long.
A hack saw will cut the pop-up rod.
I use pipe dope on the threads of the drain where it passes though the bottom rubber washer to stop water from rolling down the threads.
If it's plastic make sure the thread sealant works with that. Also if plastic the hacksaw works to cut that too.
You my need new slip joint washers if you're reusing the drain parts.

 

[skald89]

I bought this MOEN faucet. The issue I ran into now is that the plastic that your screw in to mount it to the faucet won't close fully. The inset area seems to tight that the screw won't fit in it. I am talking about the screws they have labeled as 1 in this diagram.

 

[DIYorBust]

I bought this MOEN faucet. The issue I ran into now is that the plastic that your screw in to mount it to the faucet won't close fully. The inset area seems to tight that the screw won't fit in it. I am talking about the screws they have labeled as 1 in this diagram.

Can you explain what is the "inset area"?