Bathroom Remodel - Old shower drain Question

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jay443

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My bathroom was finished in the 70s by the previous owner, and of course it's a mess. When he did the shower, he tiled directly to the slab concrete, which means that it's been leaking for years and has rotted away most of the surrounding wall bottom plates.

What I'm trying to figure out is the current shower drain. First, how do I tell if I need to replace it by breaking up the slab? Run a camera?

And second, if I don't need to replace it, how do I make it work with any of the modern Kerdi-type systems?

Or, would it just be smart to tear it out now while the whole bathroom is being remodeled?
 

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Cacher_Chick

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The drain has to be replaced to be installed in a new shower, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the 40 year-old trap too.
 

jay443

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Ok, thanks. And would you stop at the P-trap?

Here's another thought I had. This bathroom is right next to an unfinished laundry room. I'm going to be completely gutting the bathroom, including the walls, since they are rotted and not plumb. I was thinking of breaking up concrete all the way to make it past the wall into the laundry room. Then, everything in the bathroom would be new plumbing. It's only 2 feet from the current shower drain to the wall, so I would only have to break up about 3 feet of concrete. Smart? Dumb? Other things I should consider?
 

Cacher_Chick

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It's not ever a sure thing just what you will run into until you get into it. The last basement job I did had clay drain tile zig-zagging under the floor to the sump pit. A remodel is the right time to make sure that the plumbing and electrical all meets current standards.
 

Jadnashua

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Your shower drain, ideally, will end up exactly in the center of your shower unless you're thinking of maybe doing one with a linear drain, then it can go towards one of the walls (or stay at the center, if you wish). Schluter makes both a linear drain and the typical, round one for use with their shower system.

While you're checking things out, you need to note how deep the p-trap is...if it's really close to the surface with a short riser, depending on where you might wish to move the drain, you have to account for the needed slope - too high, and you may no longer be able to install the drain. Where is the vent line? Assuming there is one. If not, you should add a proper one in the process of the remodel.

Once you get the plumbing issues resolved, check out www.johnbridge.com for help with putting your shower together and do the tiling.
 

jay443

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Luckily right now the drain is pretty centered where it needs to be. Currently I have 2 feet on either side of it, and over a foot from the wall.

But, it sounds like I should just plan to tear it up and play it by ear.
 

Jadnashua

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A shower pan needs at least 1/4" per foot slope to the drain. Most people prefer the look of having the perimeter even all around. When the drain isn't centered L-R and F-B, either the slope must change to keep that level perimeter, or you have to accept the perimeter won't be even all around on the wall tile.

If you're planning on moving the toilet, you want it to be centered at least 12" from the FINISHED wall. If that's the case, any 12" toilet you might choose should fit (assuming the floor is level and the wall is plumb). If it's less than 12", your selection of toilets will go down. If it's more than 12", you'll have a bigger gap behind the toilet. It's also important to keep the riser plumb so your flange can sit flat. Ideally, when done, the flange would sit on top of the FINISHED floor (and you want to use one with a SS rim, not an all plastic one, or a painted plain steel one).
 
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