Bath drain stub out too high

[Jeff Knecht]

Is there a shallow, non standard or reversible trap that will free up 1 1/2" or so?

 

[Reach4]

Is there a shallow, non standard or reversible trap that will free up 1 1/2" or so?

I don't know the dimensions, but try reversing the one you have.

Be prepared to cut the tailpiece.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Thank you.
Height wise, that would work but aren't these engineered for specific installation?
Cutting is not a problem.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

This may be redundant.
That would work but aren't traps engineered for specific installation?
What dimensions would you need?
Thank you.

 

[Reach4]

Thank you.
Height wise, that would work but aren't these engineered for specific installation?

Yes, and no. While that asymmetry in the U-bend has a purpose, it is not a big effect. Turning that around is the way you make that trap reversible. You know your bag is labeled reversible.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/p-trap-orientation.9983/

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Outstanding!!
I got into this dilemma by trying to gain a little more space in the cabinet.
The vanity is on legs with drawers between the floor and the cabin.
Thanks again for your expertise.
Just read comment on MAR 29, 2019 by Terr

 

[Reach4]

I got into this dilemma by trying to gain a little more space in the cabinet.
The vanity is on legs with drawers between the floor and the cabin.

You successfully avoided what some others had to deal with.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Yep, that would have been "frying pan to the head" city for me.
I'm actually going to need a little longer chrome, tail piece extension.
Side observation:
I'm a 73 year old, tall guy. The cabinet floor is 16" above the finished floor, the countertop is 36" tall and the sink bottom is 9" below bottom side of counter. How in the heck would a real plumber/contortionist, install or replace a faucet without removing the sink or pulling the vanity away from the wall? Maybe make a raised platform about 4 feet long and lie on your back? Definitely a T&M job.
Yep, just read "reversible". No problem, the US Army taught me humility.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I get creases in my back under sinks from the edge of cabinet cutting in

 

[Jeff Knecht]

On standard 4" kick, I have used a furniture dolly with a plywood platform. Easier to grab a beer out of the cooler for more difficult jobs.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Learned something today that all/most plumbers know : i installed drain stub out a little too high but by having a reversible trap, I was able to drop the trap low enough to connect to tail.
However, being very anal, I installed S/O on center of sink that prevents the pop up rod from lowering completely before hitting wall bend. Need another 1/2". Most likely I can make two bends and hopefully connect higher up on the rod. Knew I should have bought push pop up drains.

 

[Jeff H Young]

unless its way up high it should be work able

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Turned pivot bar and inlet about 1/2" off center and surprisingly no rubbing noise or torquing and drain seals nicely.
Noticed that tail piece is off about 3/16" and isn't plumb. If I loosen mack nut and lower tapered gasket enough to plumb up tailpiece and tighten back up, do you think the putty will retain seal or after snuggling up the putty is too thin?
I know, always best to go back to square one and a complete redo. Another of life's lessons.

 

[Reach4]

If you are saying the metal is hitting the white, you can cut that metal shorter. You could even just bend the part below to the side (into an L) to not hit the white plastic.

I think you are saying that the trap puts some force to the left or right onto the tailpiece.

Unless the U-bend is at right angle to the trap arm, you could adjust to get rid of the stress. Do you follow?

Maybe take a photo looking straight up from beneath. I hope the lens is wide enough to show the trap, trap arm, and the nut at the wall.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

If you are saying the metal is hitting the white, you can cut that metal shorter. You could even just bend the part
below to the side (into an L) to not hit the white plastic.

I think you are saying that the trap puts some force to the left or right onto the tailpiece.

Unless the U-bend is at right angle to the trap arm, you could adjust to get rid of the stress. Do you follow?

Maybe take a photo looking straight up from beneath. I hope the lens is wide enough to show the trap, trap arm, and the nut at the wall.

Before photo was taken, the bar was at a right angle to inlet and by cutting the strap just below strap hole, still was not low enough. Photo, poorly, shows bar turned slightly to left of tail, allowing it to be lowered 3/8"-1/2" and stopper now seals fully. No leaks but I noticed the tail piece is out of plumb 3/8". Should I redo or since it's not leaking, let it go. I have that disease that needs every thing plumb, square, level, centered, etc. Thus, my projects move sloooowly. Hard to kick after 73 years on this planet.

 

[Reach4]

If you are saying that the pop-up drain works fine now, good. I don't know what an S/O is, but that's ok.

This picture with the pop-up actuator shown is a different sink than the one in post #8, right?

No leaks but I noticed the tail piece is out of plumb 3/8".

Unless the U-bend is at a right angle to the trap arm, you could adjust to get rid of the stress. Do you follow the bit about the right angle?

In other words, imagine the possible locations of the center of the left side of the trap as an arc. Is the centerline of that tailpiece farther left than any point on that arc?

If so, you could consider a slight bend in the trap arm on the way to the U-bend. You could also think of something that would jog the tailpiece a bit.

To make a bend/elbow, cut a "double offset" tube. Put the cut end into your trap adapter, and put the p-trap trap arm into the other.

That should give a more compact elbow than one of these:

Another way to go would be to jog the tailpiece if you have enough vert

 

[Jeff Knecht]

I like the idea of modifying the trap arm. Much more professional than turning the tailpiece to accommodate poor planning. Yes, the photo is for the second sink, which was offset because a stud was centered on the sink.
The trap arm is in straight line with the trap.
I abbrev the (S/O) stub out.
I did find a plastic. double offset tube to match.
Thank you for your insight and expertise.
BTW, I moved down to NC from Glen Ellyn, IL in 2015. Don't miss the winters.

 

[Reach4]

The trap arm is in straight line with the trap.

If that is the one with the stress, you just need to push the trap arm in or out a tad. All stress gone. If the trap arm is too short to pull out, get a new trap.

I guess it was the first one with the stress. If it is the second one, super easy.

I just made a picture of how to turn a double offset into a jog for a tailpiece. I don't think it would help you, but I will post it now in case somebody wants it later.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Hopefully photo is attached.
As you can see, trap is in straight plane with trap arm. I would need a trap that is 3 inches wider.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Sorry, not sure why, but
" file is too long " and won't upload.
I don't n't think I can do anything without an offset of sorts and the trap arm would be my choice.
I tried to upload photo looking up but wouldn't take.