ynnek63
New Member
Hello all,
I am planning on turning about 325 square feet of my basement into a "man cave". My house is about 90 years old and the basement has block walls. When I bought the house about 4 years ago, i had the basement water "proofed" by B-Dry Basement Water Proofing. And in the 4 years since, the basement has been very dry and odor free, with the help of a dehumidifier as well. I am pretty happy with the B-dry system. Oh, the basement had been finished when I bought the house, but I had to pull all the perimeter stud walls out so B-Dry could jack hammer and install the drainage system. There are still some partition walls remaining.
I am attaching a picture so you can see what I will be dealing with. It is pretty much representative of the whole area I will be renovating.
The ceiling height is only 84", but I am ok with losing a few inches, since this will be a "cave" after all.
So, my plans/questions are as follows:
For the floor I am thinking 6mil poly, 1" rigid XPS foam and 1/2" plywood and having this a floating floor. Good idea? I've read in other posts that another layer of plywood is good. This floor will only have padding and carpeting on it. Would I need to attach the floor to the slab if it feels solid? For the most part, the slab is level.
For the walls, the base plate will be at the edges of the plywood. As you can see in the photo, B-dry had to create a 5 to 6 wide by 1 to 1.5 inch high lip because of the way the foundation blocks were laid out or something like that. Anyway, the point is that the stud walls will be 5 to 6 inches away from the block wall (which itself is covered with 6mil reinforced poly). Will this gap present any issues other than losing floor space? How would I insulate that area?
I am also planning on spraying closed cell poly foam into the rim joist cavities.
Also, for some reason I can no longer remember, B-Dry uses a brittle cement over their drainage system and the only way to attach wood is with adhesive, which I why i would prefer to have the floating floor with the walls on it.
Because my house is "under water" so to speak (I owe more than it is worth) I want to do this correctly, but also as cheap as possible.
Pic below.
I am planning on turning about 325 square feet of my basement into a "man cave". My house is about 90 years old and the basement has block walls. When I bought the house about 4 years ago, i had the basement water "proofed" by B-Dry Basement Water Proofing. And in the 4 years since, the basement has been very dry and odor free, with the help of a dehumidifier as well. I am pretty happy with the B-dry system. Oh, the basement had been finished when I bought the house, but I had to pull all the perimeter stud walls out so B-Dry could jack hammer and install the drainage system. There are still some partition walls remaining.
I am attaching a picture so you can see what I will be dealing with. It is pretty much representative of the whole area I will be renovating.
The ceiling height is only 84", but I am ok with losing a few inches, since this will be a "cave" after all.
So, my plans/questions are as follows:
For the floor I am thinking 6mil poly, 1" rigid XPS foam and 1/2" plywood and having this a floating floor. Good idea? I've read in other posts that another layer of plywood is good. This floor will only have padding and carpeting on it. Would I need to attach the floor to the slab if it feels solid? For the most part, the slab is level.
For the walls, the base plate will be at the edges of the plywood. As you can see in the photo, B-dry had to create a 5 to 6 wide by 1 to 1.5 inch high lip because of the way the foundation blocks were laid out or something like that. Anyway, the point is that the stud walls will be 5 to 6 inches away from the block wall (which itself is covered with 6mil reinforced poly). Will this gap present any issues other than losing floor space? How would I insulate that area?
I am also planning on spraying closed cell poly foam into the rim joist cavities.
Also, for some reason I can no longer remember, B-Dry uses a brittle cement over their drainage system and the only way to attach wood is with adhesive, which I why i would prefer to have the floating floor with the walls on it.
Because my house is "under water" so to speak (I owe more than it is worth) I want to do this correctly, but also as cheap as possible.
Pic below.