Bad well pump

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KineticoUser

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My secondary well isn't pumping. The PumpSaver tests out fine, but all 3 pump wires show ground, and the main windings show 3 ohm when 2.7 is maximum for a 1hp motor. Power to the pump is fine. Before I pull the pump out of the well and replace it, I thought I'd run it by you to see if there might be any other solutions. I look forward to your feedback.
 

Reach4

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My secondary well isn't pumping. The PumpSaver tests out fine, but all 3 pump wires show ground, and the main windings show 3 ohm when 2.7 is maximum for a 1hp motor. Power to the pump is fine. Before I pull the pump out of the well and replace it, I thought I'd run it by you to see if there might be any other solutions. I look forward to your feedback.
What measures the 3.0 ohm? Is that the Pump Saver or an ordinary multimeter?

The winding could be 2.7 ohms, and the wires each 0.15 ohms.
 

KineticoUser

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I used an ohmmeter to measure it. That's the reading between the yellow and black wires. The reading between the yellow and red wires is within range. I also checked the capacitor in the Pump Saver, and that is within range.
 

KineticoUser

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All three wires disconnected from not touching anything? How many ohms to ground? Length of power wiring has some resistance. Trip breaker instantly?
Yes, all 3 wires were disconnected and not touching anything. I didn't check the ohms to ground. I can check that tomorrow. The pump is 282' deep. Breakers aren't tripping... it's just not running.
 

Reach4

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You may want to replace the control box or the start capacitor in the control box.

I don't know the likelihood of the capacitor being the cause of your problems, but it is easier than pulling a pump usually.

With a bad start capacitor expect very high current for a few seconds until an overload trips. I don't know if the overload device is in the pump, but if it is, it would be self-resetting.

With a two-wire ohmmeter the contact resistance can be significant when measuring low ohms.
 

KineticoUser

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I tested the capacitor, and it reads perfect. I'll get out there again today and record the exact ohm readings for grounds and between the wires. If I'm not mistaken, they were all grounding at about 14 ohms.
 

KineticoUser

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That was what I expected. This pump is 17 years old and the well isn't a great well.
 

KineticoUser

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Unfortunately, I just spent $20K on a new 10K gallon holding tank, so finances are challenged. At least my other well seems to be pumping. It's too bad I have to wait another week before I can replace my leaking tank. It's been 10 months since I ordered this tank. Prior to that, another company held my deposit for 3 months before telling me they didn't want to do the job. It used to be that companies followed through on their word.
 

Reach4

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When the pump is trying to run, what current do you see on L1 or L2 with your clamp-around ammeter? It should surge initially, and then drop back if the motor starts.

Are you saying that you read about 14 ohms from each of the isolated 3 non-grounded pump wires to ground?
 

KineticoUser

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OK, I messed up. I didn't let the ohmmeter settle down before reading the results. The wires aren't grounded. I used three different meters, and, unfortunately, got 3 different readings.
Cen-tech Meter yellow-black 5.5; yellow-red 13.7
Speedway Series DCM200 Meter yellow-black 4.2; yellow-red 12.5
AstralAI CM2KOR Meter yellow-black 3.2; yellow-red 11.8
Maximum for a 1hp motor is 2.7 & 12.1

When I used my clamp ammeter and turned on the power, nothing happened on either L1 or L2.

What are your thoughts now?
 

Reach4

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"When I used my clamp ammeter and turned on the power, nothing happened on either L1 or L2."
That is the main symptom.

So measure the voltage across L1 and L2 when the pump should be on. From there troubleshoot to the pressure switch if not 240vac, and take readings at the output of the control box if expected voltage is present.

You like meters. Consider a 4-wire milliohm meter with Kelvin clips. They are cool. Not that you need one for this troubleshooting.
 

KineticoUser

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I'm not necessarily into meters, but I've bought new ones when the old ones didn't have the features I needed. I don't expect to buy more meters. Tomorrow, I'll measure the voltage coming out of my Pump Saver, as that's the last place I can look before the wires head down the well. I must be getting voltage to the Pump Saver, as that has a self test that shows the LEDs lit. This is 240V, and I'm not aware of a pressure switch. It just switches on when the float switch on the holding tank activates.
 

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Could still be the Pump Saver just not closing the circuit to let the pump start. With those ohms between the wires and no short to ground I would not pull it until I tried a new control box. If you can't get it to draw any amps on start up, I don't think it is getting the voltage needed.
 

Reach4

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Also easy to check are the voltages on the pressure switch. Measure terminal 2 to 3. That should read 240 vac.

Problem is probably closer to the well than that, but its very easy.
 

KineticoUser

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Also easy to check are the voltages on the pressure switch. Measure terminal 2 to 3. That should read 240 vac.

Problem is probably closer to the well than that, but its very easy.
You keep talking about the pressure switch. Where would that be? I'm not aware of any pressure switch.
 

KineticoUser

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Could still be the Pump Saver just not closing the circuit to let the pump start. With those ohms between the wires and no short to ground I would not pull it until I tried a new control box. If you can't get it to draw any amps on start up, I don't think it is getting the voltage needed.
I'll be testing that today.
 

Reach4

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You keep talking about the pressure switch. Where would that be? I'm not aware of any pressure switch.
Pressure switch will/should be by the input to the pressure tank. The wires from the breaker (possibly via a switch) go to that, typically terminals 1 and 4. From there, typically wires on terminals 2 and 3 go to the L1 and L2 on the controller.

There is usually a pressure gauge near the pressure switch.
 

KineticoUser

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Pressure switch will/should be by the input to the pressure tank. The wires from the breaker (possibly via a switch) go to that, typically terminals 1 and 4. From there, typically wires on terminals 2 and 3 go to the L1 and L2 on the controller.

There is usually a pressure gauge near the pressure switch.
I'm dealing with my well pump, not my pressure pump. They are completely different pumps. I have a pump to raise the water from my well into my holding tank and then a pump to pressurize the water. The well pump is operated by the float switch on the tank. The pressure pump has a pressure switch. The two pumps aren't connected in any way.
 
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