Backwater Valve

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Dlarrivee

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I completely understand your point there, if I had done it, I would have never put the wye on its side either... Even with a bunch of waste coming down it doesn't seem like any is dropping into the tank however... The wye isn't perfectly flat, but it's not dumping into the top of the drain either.

The most unfortunate thing is how much work it would be to fix a simple problem like that.

Thanks for your help, I'm going to install the check valve asap.
 

Doherty Plumbing

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The rubber clamps ARE your unions, and you do not need a gate valve on that installation. I have NEVER used one in a residential installation. They are only USEFUL when there is a long discharge pipe which would be full of water. I also would have connected the pump to the top of the pipe, mainly so that water being used upstairs could NOT flow into the pump if the check valve were malfunctioning.

Wrong. He does need a valve. The code book states it clear as day. Although you are right about it being such a short run that it probably won't make much difference.

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I usually use a 2" PVC ball valve with a 2" pvc compression union.

Make sure you pick up some proper ABS-> PVC transition glue.

The ball valve is nice because check valves can and do fail. You need that valve in there as a little safety net.

I would honestly repipe that whole connection if it were me and change how the pump discharges into your main. It's really not THAT much work. With materials you could probably do it for under $80.
 
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Dlarrivee

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Just up stream from where the discharge of the ejector is a wye with a stack and a cleanout plug, can I break out the 3" pipe from inside the wye and glue new pipe into it? Or should I just use abs couplings and leave the old pipe in the wye?

I was under the impression that you couldn't use PVC and ABS in the same line without using fernco style couplings?

I don't mind the idea of having a valve, but I've never seen abs and pvc glued together.

This is the check valve I would like to use, do I really need the union if you can simply unclamp the bottom of the check valve?

img2007e.jpg
 
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Doherty Plumbing

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Just up stream from where the discharge of the ejector is a wye with a stack and a cleanout plug, can I break out the 3" pipe from inside the wye and glue new pipe into it? Or should I just use abs couplings and leave the old pipe in the wye?

I was under the impression that you couldn't use PVC and ABS in the same line without using fernco style couplings?

I don't mind the idea of having a valve, but I've never seen abs and pvc glued together.

This is the check valve I would like to use, do I really need the union if you can simply unclamp the bottom of the check valve?

img2007e.jpg

You could argue that the ferncos are your union.... so I'd say no.

You CAN glue ABS to PVC (using transition glue) however to be technical the only place this acceptable by code is going from your PVC laundry box to an ABS stand pipe. However it's done all the time with pvc ball valves on sump pumps. I have never had one turned down upon inspection.

Just use the right glue and you'll be ok.

If I were you I'd cut the discharge pipe from the pump just below the 90. Then I'd cut out the wye fitting on your main and rebuild the assembly like I described a few posts ago.

You may need 2 ferncos to get your new wye back in on the main and if you do you might need to support the piping somehow to prevent sagging.
 

Dlarrivee

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I'm not trying to do a hack job here or anything, I'm just worried about running out of room with only 20" between the center line of the 3" drain and the top of the sewage tanks lid.

I would prefer not to use any fernco couplings in the main drain if I can help it, I think there's enough flexibility upstream of the improperly installed wye that I could use a 3" abs coupling between the new wye and the existing main stack.

I will install the wye facing vertically, with a street 45* to vertical, 90* to horizontal over to above the tank 90* down, PVC ball valve, check valve and the rest will drop down to the pump... That sounds a bit better than what I have now, doesn't it?
 

Doherty Plumbing

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I'm not trying to do a hack job here or anything, I'm just worried about running out of room with only 20" between the center line of the 3" drain and the top of the sewage tanks lid.

I would prefer not to use any fernco couplings in the main drain if I can help it, I think there's enough flexibility upstream of the improperly installed wye that I could use a 3" abs coupling between the new wye and the existing main stack.

I will install the wye facing vertically, with a street 45* to vertical, 90* to horizontal over to above the tank 90* down, PVC ball valve, check valve and the rest will drop down to the pump... That sounds a bit better than what I have now, doesn't it?

Yep!

If you can get enough slack out of the main line then that's great!!!! Definitely the best way to go! Ferncos are only used when you HAVE to use one. Sometimes you do.... sometimes you don't.

Good luck!

Post pics when you're done!
 

Dlarrivee

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I'd like to install a wye further down stream as well, in order to move the washer and dryer closer to the corner where the drain exits the building, can I install the wye and somehow cap it off for the time being?

I figure I might as well do them both at once, if I'm going to cut my drain, I don't want to do that more than I have to.
 

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I'd like to install a wye further down stream as well, in order to move the washer and dryer closer to the corner where the drain exits the building, can I install the wye and somehow cap it off for the time being?

I figure I might as well do them both at once, if I'm going to cut my drain, I don't want to do that more than I have to.

Yes you can.
 

Dlarrivee

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Okay great.

I'm also going to be redoing the bathroom that drains into the tank we're talking about, I'd also like to add a floor drain near where my hot water tank is. Unfortunately the inlet to the tank is facing north and the spot I need to put the floor drain is south east of the tank itself, is it a big no-no to put more than one 45* fitting (all on their sides) below a slab? If I lay out the rest of the drains the way I would like to, the floor drain will flow through 2 45*s and 2 wyes before it hits the tank, is that going to be a problem?
 

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[Edit]

I should say that if you are properly venting that floor drain you are ok doing that. And I would assume you'd be wet venting it somewhere but I'd need to see a drawing of how you plan on tying in the drainage.

If you want to forget about that floor drain then make it 3" and call it an emergency floor drain! Just make sure the trap arm is atleast 450mm and you're golden. Ofcourse everything downstream of the 3" floor drain would have to be a min of 3" as well.
 
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Dlarrivee

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I should be a plumber... :p

The crappy part is, I'll have to somehow tunnel below the furnace to install this floor drain...
 
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Doherty Plumbing

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I should be a plumber... :p

The crappy part is, I'll have to somehow tunnel below the furnace to install this floor drain...

You can use upto 3 45 degree elbows between your trap and where you connect to your vent. So if you can avoid the furnace by going with 3 45s and you can still keep your max trap arm length in check try that!
 

Dlarrivee

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We'll see when I get the old bathroom torn out.

I have 8' of trap arm before I vent with 2", I believe?
 

hj

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washer

Are you saying that the washing machine drains into that above the floor sewer, even though you have an ejector to handle the basement drainage? If so, then the plumber who installed your system must have been about a month into his apprenticeship.
 

Dlarrivee

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Are you saying that the washing machine drains into that above the floor sewer, even though you have an ejector to handle the basement drainage? If so, then the plumber who installed your system must have been about a month into his apprenticeship.

The ejector was added by some hackjob renovator probably 10 years ago I'm guessing.

The original drain and trap for the washing machine was there before there was ever a bathroom down there.

I don't see a problem with dumping straight into the above floor sewer drain, if it's vented properly and has a trap, and a stand pipe then why not? The ejector pump is there out of necessity, not because I want it there, so why not save the pump a little bit of work and not dump the washing machine into it...?

Here's how I plan to fix the botched installation of the ejector pump:
img2008mz.jpg
 

Doherty Plumbing

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The ejector was added by some hackjob renovator probably 10 years ago I'm guessing.

The original drain and trap for the washing machine was there before there was ever a bathroom down there.

I don't see a problem with dumping straight into the above floor sewer drain, if it's vented properly and has a trap, and a stand pipe then why not? The ejector pump is there out of necessity, not because I want it there, so why not save the pump a little bit of work and not dump the washing machine into it...?

Here's how I plan to fix the botched installation of the ejector pump:
img2008mz.jpg

That looks like a good start!
 

Dlarrivee

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I'm also working on a concrete countertop and undermount sink for the bathroom remodel...

What is the best way to fasten a 4x3 closet flange to a concrete slab by the way?
 

Doherty Plumbing

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I usually use smack pins but you can also drill in inserts like you would with drywall and then use brass screws. This would be the best way technically because you're supposed to fasten floor flanges with brass screws.
 

Dlarrivee

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[Edit]
If you want to forget about that floor drain then make it 3" and call it an emergency floor drain! Just make sure the trap arm is atleast 450mm and you're golden. Ofcourse everything downstream of the 3" floor drain would have to be a min of 3" as well.

I'm bringing this back from the dead.

Doherty,

Technically this 3" "emergency" drain requires a minimum trap arm of 450mm, but as far as I know trap arms measure from the trap weir to the vent. In this case you're saying I can run a 3 inch trap and 3 inch pipe downstream of this, to my ejector pump tank, and the tank itself is vented. So am I measuring the 450mm from the p-trap the wye where it ties in, or to the tank? Also, will it be a problem having a toilet dumping upstream from this?
 
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