Backwash filter media is 6+ years old. What to do?

[seraslibre]

I moved into my house in 2012. It came with a backwash filter. Water tests on purchase (2012) showed all NJ required limits were within acceptable ranges. I think it may be time to replace the carbon in my backwash filter, but what are the right steps to make sure I use the correct media for the water I have?

Do I only need to do the first or both of the below?
1. Run a test on the pre-filtered water
2. Run a test on the post-filtered water

Will this then help me determine what filter media I need to replace into my BW filter?

I've already learned a lot from the forum in the past few weeks - looking to add a CSV to my system soon as well.

 

[Valveman]

If you need help with the CSV let me know. I am moving this to the softener forum as you will get more help on this subject there.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I moved into my house in 2012. It came with a backwash filter. Water tests on purchase (2012) showed all NJ required limits were within acceptable ranges. I think it may be time to replace the carbon in my backwash filter, but what are the right steps to make sure I use the correct media for the water I have?

Do I only need to do the first or both of the below?
1. Run a test on the pre-filtered water
2. Run a test on the post-filtered water

What does the water test on purchase show?
Tell us about your well. Shallow, deep?

Why do you think the carbon filter was put there to begin with?
Why do you think the media is carbon?
Have you noticed a symptom in your water?

 

[seraslibre]

Attached is my results file from 2012.

I'm not 100% certain, but it appears that the first set of testing is pre-filtered and the second set (post-filtration?) was only run on the problem areas (arsenic was high unfiltered).

I was told that the media needed to be replenished every few years - not sure if this is true or a sales pitch, hence my interest in changing out the media in the BW filter. I don't actually know what is in there. I thought they all had some variation of activated carbon inside.

 

[Reach4]

I can see the arsenic number went from 0.012 to none-detected.

There are some problems on the report.... one is a typo for the second pH where they copied the temperature into the pH box. That in itself is not a problem, because pH over 14 is impossible. So disregard that, other than to make you wonder if they were somehow making other mistakes.

Your raw arsenic number shows as 0.060, which is equal to 60 ppb (parts per billion). The maximum contamination level is 10 ppb, and there is discussion of lowering that. This would be important for drinking and cooking. Not a problem for washing.

So your suspicion that your arsenic is what the filter is about makes sense. Somebody else will have some more info, I suspect.

Your report shows no iron. Arsenic is easier to remove in the presence of iron.

I don't think GAC (granular activated carbon) could be counted on to remove arsenic. My iron+H2S filter removed arsenic (my number was 0.006). I had not even thought about arsenic until I was comparing my before and after water test results. Getting rid of the arsenic was a surprise bonus.

So how about these:

1. How deep is your well approx?
2. Does your backwashing filter have a connection to a solution tank or brine tank or some such?
3. Have you noticed a symptom in your water?
4. What controller does your backwashing filter have? If you don't know, post a picture with any easy-to-remove cover removed.

 

[ditttohead]

Do you have any information on what is inside the tank? You can remove the head, take a sample and post a picture, that would help. If if is an arsenic reduction media then it is probable GFH, Titanium, or activated alumina. Post a picture, we might be able to tell what it is then.

 

[seraslibre]

1. I have no idea how deep my well is. Fortunately I haven't had to do any work on it and the previous owner was unaware of the depth as well.
2. Backwash filter does not connect to any other tanks.
3. I feel the bathroom walls have more water spots on them, but my wife disagrees and she is the one that cleans it!
4. Autotrol 460TC - see attached photos.

5. I've never removed this before and it appears to be a messy proposition. Do I need to disconnect all the water lines and physically rotate the head to unscrew it from the cylinder? I am going to have to get my hands on a very large chain wrench to undo the head from the cylinder.

 

[ditttohead]

The head should not be tight on the tank, a simple tap and it should get loose. These systems utilize an o-ring between the valve and the tank, not a flat seal so tightening them more than "taught" is not necessary.

 

[seraslibre]

I removed the head and was able to look inside the tank. Unfortunately the pictures all came out blurry - but it looks like a rust-colored fine powder. Definitely not activated carbon as I thought. The level of the top of the powder/media is about 18-20 inches from the top of the tank.

Does this level go down over time?
What are the generally accepted markers that indicate a media exchange is required?

 

[Bannerman]

If possible, remove some media to photograph on a white background. You may be able to syphon some media into a bucket using a hose.

The media tank is typically filled to approx 2/3 during installation, to allow appropriate space for the media to expand during backwash. Empty space should be expected, even when the media is new.

Depending on the media type, some beads may become worn or fractured over time through backwashing. Small or fractured pieces maybe flushed to drain during backwash.

Measure the diameter and height of the tank as that will relate to the quantity of media the tank should normally contain.