Backflow preventer

[Wilson01]

I have a small rainbird sprinkler system I installed that comes off my hose bibs. I use a Orbit water timer on the sprinkler zones. The backflow preventers that came with the rainbird system restrict the water flow so much that the heads won’t pop up. I tried using shark bite in-line check valves and they still restrict the flow to much. My question is if I’m using a water time do I need a backflow preventer ? And if I need one do they make such a thing as high flow check valves or backflow preventers ? Thanks for any help

 

[Terry]

Either a vacuum breaker or a reduced pressure back flow preventer is what irrigation should have.
Sometimes you need full size to make the heads work. That may mean finding larger pipes to connect it to. Running off of the hosebib means you're already restricted quite a bit. For my mothers place, we needed a 1" line, and to the street we went with 1.5" pipe to reduce friction loss. The 1.5" line was about 250 feet long.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

What Rainbird and Orbit models do you have? It might be a pressure reducer used for drip irrigation, not popups. At the spigot you should just have a vacuum breaker. Can you post a picture of it?

With a direct connection to your water source to a sprinkler system, then a back flow preventer is required. With a single zone system, a master valve with a vacuum breaker could be used.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rain-Bi...-Valve-with-Flow-Control-DASASVF075/100036021

 

[Wilson01]

I have 5 zones off my hose bibs. One bib has 3 zones, one outback has 2 zones and the last bib is a single zone. The backflow preventer that came with the Rainbird 32ETI kit is a Hendricks model J-10. I will post pictures of the kit, timer and backflow preventer I have. I should do control valves the right way. I can’t combine all six zones into one location because of elevation and retaining walls at my house so I would need two controllers I guess. The sprinkler kit has 1/2” line but the 2 zones that are farther away from my house a ran a 3/4” main line. Thanks for the help.

 

[WorthFlorida]

That is a nice kit for using house spigots but generally they’re feed by 1/2” pipe which limits the number of sprinklers per zone. Printed on the box reads pressure reducer and back flow preventer. I don’t know if it’s one piece or two where only the back flow can be used.
To get a little more oomph, change the spigot to a ball valve. It would require a shutoff inside the home since frost proof hydrants with ball valves are not made. A ball valve allow a full open and straight port for the water to flow.

 

[Wilson01]

The pressure reducer and backflow preventer are separate in the kit but are made of pretty cheap plastic. If I did ball valves what kind of a backflow preventer would you suggest ? Also do they make a fitting to go from the ball valve to garden hose thread ?

 

[Wilson01]

Another question where would you guys suggest to buy a 4 zone and 2 zone preassembled sprinkler manifold, the in ground boxes and a control to operate 6 zones ? This all new to me as to what I would need. If using control valves would increase my water flow maybe this is the direction I should go ?

 

[WorthFlorida]

I’ve only seen three and two zone manifolds by Orbit. The way your set up using bibs is one zone at a time. Controllers for home use only operate one zone at a time. Unless you have a supplier for pump, irrigation or a plumbing supplier in NY, Home Depot or Lowe’s is good for the homeowner. Not sure about The NY stores. On the hot southern states, in ground irrigation is a common place so there are suppliers for pumps and irrigation.

For on line https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/. They’re the best on line for information and training videos.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...Turn-MPT-x-MHT-Hose-Bibb-VHBQTCC3EB/205811565
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...Turn-MPT-x-MHT-Hose-Bibb-VHBQTCC3EB/205811565
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-x-MHT-No-Kink-Hose-Bibb-VHNQTRB3EB/205812136

 

[Wilson01]

I have a well pump so could I tap into my water line just after my pressure tank it’s a 1” line then I could run it directly to a sprinkler valve manifold and then get a 6 zone sprinkle controller. Would that be the correct way to do it ? I just don’t know if I’d need anti siphon valves and not sure how I’d blow them out to winterize each zone

 

[WorthFlorida]

A direct connection is the best way. You would need to use a check valve and a ball valve after the pressure tank to the irrigation system and a backflow preventer will be needed. Most important is the well and pump motor. For best performance and less stress on the pump a CSV should be installed. https://cyclestopvalves.com/ Because flash player is no longer supported I could not get any video references for you.

Some back flows must be installed above the highest sprinklers, other can be blow grade such as in a basement. The drain for the winter installing a hose bibb below grade in the basement can be opened and allow most of the water to drain back from the zone valves. For the rest of it an air compressor will work the best. Using an assortment of fitting to make an air connection woul dbe needed.

FYI.... what you want to do you'll spend at least $500 getting it set up with the right controller, zone valves, sprinklers, pipe and fitting. The CSV will add a few hundred more. If this is going to be past your budget or skill set, continue what you want to do and see how it works. It may be just fine for your needs. Just note without a CSV, your well pump may short cycle. That is the pump is pumping more water than the irrigation calls for and the pressure switch will shut of the pump as the pressure tank fills. However, in a short time the pressure drops and the pump turns on again. If the pump cannot keep up with demand, the house pressure will suffer but the pump will continuously run which is actually better.

At sprinkler warehouse dot com there is lots of information and thousands of YouTube videos on installing irrigation systems.

 

[Wilson01]

Thanks I’ve had numerous conversations with Cary Austin and a CSV is not an option with my set up. I will look into what parts and valves I need before making a decision

 

[Wilson01]

I ordered a 1” double check valve assembly from the sprinkler warehouse and I’m going to order 6 Rainbird 100-DV inline valves.I’m going to put the DCA in my basement and then go through the concrete wall with 1” pex and then use an adapter to switch to pvc pipe. The sprinkler warehouse sells a air fitting that goes on the DCA to blow out the zones. Will I have water leaking out of the DCA with the air fitting installed ? Or can I open the test cock after after the air line is attached to the fitting? I’ve never used a DCA before so not sure how they work and my basement is finished and don’t want water all over my floor. One other question would I use my controller to open each valve to blow out each zone ? And I would assume 40-45 psi to blow each zone out would be ok. Thanks for all the help